'63 Giulia Spider Normale Restoration (Euro)

[Alfajay]

Patrick:

For a Giulia, you want the cable operated heater valve; not the one with the knob. The one on the left side of the photo you posted is correct.

Here are a couple of photos of the heater valve in my '63 Giulia spider normale (sorry they're a bit blurry). There is a nice little bracket tack welded to the body in the right-rear corner of the engine compartment. It has two holes that accept screws that secure the valve to the bracket. I hope that whoever mounted that Oldsmobile vavle to your car didn't bugger or remove that bracket!

Good luck!

[GTD]

Patrick
Alfajay is correct (but a little blurry) about the valve.
Here's a different view of the body bracket the valve bolts to:

[Gordon Raymond]

Oh but I Do! Just wait a few minutes! Best, Gordon Raymond

[alfabits]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pathung George, I used CuNiFer (Copper/Nickel/Steel - 89%/10%/1%) lines. These are corrosion resistant and supposedly used as OEM lines on current Porsches, Audis, and Volvos. Question: what gauge wire should I use for the battery cable? I bought 12 ft. of 4 gauge, which looks a bit wimpy... 2 gauge, on further thought, seems more suitable. Thanks in advance for recommendations.

[Gordon Raymond]

OK patrick, here you go. If you notice, cars factory fitted with this valve, have a bracket spot welded to the firewall. I think you can see the bracket back there. The faucet style has no bracket, and heat is obtained by opening the hood, opening the valve some, closing the hood, driving some and repeat.
More in a minute. Gordon Raymond

[Gordon Raymond]

Patrick,
Here's some of the valve. This is a spare Ferrari valve, the same thing. The bail loop over the actuating arm is for a friction spring for the Ferrari set up. It keeps the valve from vibrating open or closed. Bail removed, it becomes an Alfa valve. Gordon Raymond

[Gordon Raymond]

Patrick,
For those snow challenged folks, here is the hike to my shop. Foreground is the corner of my house. Far distant through the cold and wet, the shop.
Gordon Raymond

[user459]

Pat,
Now don't you feel sorry for Gordon? Can you picture him slogging through the slush and snow to get to his shop....... Oh wait, you don't have slush and snow in sunny California, do you.....

I used 1/0 gauge cable. I had it built by Heavy Duty, Aftermarket, Custom Battery Cables for your Car, Truck or RV in Arizona. They did a fantastic job. They have the right tools and equipment to make up the ends professionally. I agree with George that it's a bit stiff, but you won't have much loss in the run from the trunk to the engine compartment. I also ran an 8 ga lead from the negative battery terminal back to the engine compartment alongside the positive cable. That way I have a good solid ground available there.

Life in New England:

[Skinthin]

Based on the recommendation from a quality race shop, I used #2 from the starter to the new trunk-mounted battery in my GTV. #2 is very pliable and thus easy to route, and while I haven't tested any line loss the starter behaves as though the battery is within inches.
The battery is grounded inside the trunk.
Richard B.
Colorado

[pathung]

Thanks guys for all the input, photos, and recommendations!

It looks like nobody went with 4 gauge, so I may have to fatten up and go with 2 or 1.

Good news to all who commented about the heater valve - yes, my car DOES have that all-important bracket, the one that I despised for cutting my hand numerous times and not knowing what it's for. Looks like I bought the wrong valve; time to browse Centerline's website again.

Gordon, I will NOT ask for more pictures from you, at least not until the snow in Illinois has melted away; that's a promise.

[GTD]

In an effort to provide better understanding for all:
The heater valve currently being sold by the usual sources and pictured by Patrick is a substitute part when fitted to a 101 ALFA. It's actually a 105 Series part which can do the job; close but it is not "as original" - note the extra mounting points on the housing.
An original valve (101.00.57.017.00) is pictured below in the proper orientation for mounting in the Spider normale chassis. This position results in the mounting clamp for the actuating cable facing toward the firewall or engine bulkhead. The input nipple points toward the hose coming from the heater core.
The outlet nipple to the intake manifold is wasted away on the valve pictured but will be repaired ... shortly.
The last two pics demonstrate the valve in closed and open positions respectively.

Curiously... GR's Veloce Spider shows the same valve assembled differently, turned 180* and fixed to a bracket mounted on the firewall rather than the frame rail. A Veloce only modification???

[GTD]

Oh yeah; while I'm at it... Gordon, Quit your crying!
Your shop could be worse.

[Gordon Raymond]

OMG!!!!! {fortunately, only the German cars were damaged!} The Alfa was somewhere warm, like my shop! Oh oh! There's a Porsche in my garage RIGHT NOW! Better hike over there and turn off the water! (OMG< OMG< OMG!!!) Gordon Raymond

[pathung]

There's leak in that roof somewhere...