'63 Giulia Spider Normale Restoration (Euro)

[pathung]

I did also wonder if I applied too thick of a layer(s), as the skinny end of the column had a bit of a "dripping" formation on the surface; nevertheless, as long as the thick end looks alright, I'm going to leave it alone, since the skinny end is hidden under the dash. I just want to DRIVE THE DAMNED CAR!

Back to brake tube bending for a bit: I finished bending my tubes about a month ago, now I'm ready to flare and install them onto the chassis, if not the brakes (brakes aren't ready yet). Fed Hill USA, from whom I bought the Cunifer lines, rents a flaring tool that is supposedly, and miraculously, effective every time, for $25/week + hefty deposit. Here's link to a video on how to use the tool - looks simple, eh?

http://www.fedhillusa.com/webnuts/ne...ol%20video.avi

[pathung]

Another Saturday, another day in Berkeley working with Glenn - this time on the Weber 40DOCE4s.

We took the Webers apart, took out and cleaned up the various jets, installed new gaskets, and put them back together. Pretty simple by the second Weber. The more complicated part was probably in ensuring the proper gap on the float mechanism, between the cover gasket and both floats; one this is set, the rest of the rebuild was a breeze. We used carburetor cleaner and scotch-brite to clean the aluminum (nickel?) carburetor body, and grounded the brass parts to a nice shine. We secured the four venturis onto a lathe, and polished their insides with scotch-brite. All in a day's work. See (not-too-well-focused) pics.

Next up... engine rebuild (after tying up a few loose ends on the 3-shoe brakes).

[pathung]

A bit more progress today: the dashpad has been installed. I bought this from Centerline more than a year ago, and it fits quite well. It comes with four M5 studs that are spot-on in relation to the holes on the dashboard; the vinyl also adheres nicely to the fiberglass underneath, with some edge trimming required on my part. Overall, easily done and looks fine.

[Gordon Raymond]

Note how Patrick states "it fits quite well", and in both photos he shows the LARGE ORANGE HAMMER!!
Looks great Patrick!
Gordon Raymond

[Pat Garrett]

I take it that the hammer was needed to help with the installation ? I saw another dash pad today, where the vinyl had peeled off the fibreglass. The 'glass bit looked quite good, but the covering was suspect. I am still wondering just which way to go on mine.
Regards,
pat

[pathung]

Sharp eyes, men. It did take a bit of coaxing with the "mallet" (NOT hammer) for a tight, final fit.

Pat, I've stored my dashpad in the garage this whole time, so I couldn't tell you how long things will last. Did the peeling you saw happen soon after installation?

[Gordon Raymond]

Pat,
I made mine, using a replica fiberglass (or original) 1300 nosing for the uncovered dash. The post is somewhere here. It took a while but came out looking and feeling original as it has foam underneath. Further, now that the nosing is perfectly fitted to the front edge of the dash / cowl, should the foam or vinyl go bad again within the next 40 years, I can do it again when I'm 101 years old!

Gordon Raymond

[Gordon Raymond]

Patrick,
I have done many Weber rebuilds and have found this tool, made in my shop, makes the job of float adjustment quick and easy. Ron Neal, when he worked at Ausca, had two rods, one 8.5 mm and another 15 mm. I just simplified it by combining the pair in aluminum. Gordon Raymond

[pathung]

The dashpad I have also comes with a thin layer of foam underneath the vinyl; softens things up a bit.

To measure the float gap, we used a pair of fat drill bits that had the right measurements - a variation on your idea, Gordon.

[Pat Garrett]

Fellows, the pad I saw had not even been installed as yet, but it still peeled off the fibreglas shell. Just why, I do not know. Maybe it was a bad job of trying to install !!!
Gordon, Pat, thanks for your info on the float guage.

[Hall750DSpider]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pathung A bit more progress today: the dashpad has been installed. I bought this from Centerline more than a year ago, and it fits quite well. It comes with four M5 studs that are spot-on in relation to the holes on the dashboard; the vinyl also adheres nicely to the fiberglass underneath, with some edge trimming required on my part. Overall, easily done and looks fine.

[GTD]

Tom
Horn and headlight flasher wires come thru the hollow steering column.
ALFA used a special steering wheel puller which clamped around the groove in the hub, shown so well in your pic. Someone will likely post a pic of the tool. There are modern pullers which perform just as well.

[pathung]

Hi Tom,

My steering wheel was also stuck at time of extraction, but I used a propane torch on it to expand the metals (the Giulia steering wheel being aluminum in the middle, versus the steel column), and it popped out with a yank or two. No tools needed. If you're not so lucky, a gear puller of the right size will probably do.

[GTD]

Patrick
The Giulietta wheel and hub differ greatly from the Giulia. There is no thread tapped into the hub for the two bolts as is the case with 101 and later series.
Holes can be drilled and tapped to effect a removal but use of a proper tool alleviates this chore.