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Old 05-30-2006, 12:25 PM
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With brakes don't stint. Repace the shoes, return springs and the cylinder assemblies. Alfa Stop in the UK do the whole axle brake assemblies very reasonably. I will bet that there is corrosion in them. As an experiment strip one front cylinder and have a look! Keep us posted.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2006, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldCloverLeaf
A BFG (big f***ing hammer) will usualy do the trick. I would also buy a pickle fork... You should also get a smaller pickle fork for the tie rod ends. It will be near impossible getting them off with a hammer.
Can't wait till this weekend to give the balljoints some good whacking. In regards to pickle forks, any idea what size I should get for the tie-rod ends?

Regarding the brakes, Alfazagato (Stuart), I do intend to replace everything, withe Alfastop's help or otherwise. Thanks for the advice.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2006, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pathung
Thanks, George, I'm on my way to get a big hammer! Just curious; how would you get the new ball joint IN?
New ball joint goes in very easily as the nut tightens it into the taper ... it will make sense once you have the old one out.

And yes big hammer and a lever applying a little force separating the ball joint from the suspension/steering link. The hammer hit jars the taper and it will pop off.

Pete
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2006, 08:51 PM
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Five weeks later, I've undone all joints. The torque arm in the back just needed whacking, while the tie rod ends required a pickle fork (or much more patience whacking than I exhibited). The pickle fork I got was a bit too big, but it got the job done.

Next up, taking out both the steering wheel and column, then move on to build a dolly to rest the body on. Will take pictures once built.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 08-25-2006, 11:58 PM
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A few weeks ago, while undoing the steering wheel from the steering column, I learned a neat trick: when in doubt, just torch it. My friend brought over a steering wheel extractor that he had invented and which worked beautifully for his Giulietta, but naturally, the Giulia has a different style wheel, so the tool was useless. Being a smart guy who's had many things not work for him before, he also brought a propane torch. While staring stupidly at the blue blame for a few minutes, we managed to heat the aluminum in the center of the wheel enough so as to be simply pulled out and off of the column... After this adventure, I ran out to the hardware store and bought myself a nice torch, and tried it on some of the more stubborn screws that bolted the door latch mechanism onto the door - it worked like a charm! I'm all about the efficacy of fire now; never knew it to be so useful, except when cooking.

On a separate front, I've got the wooden dolly mostly built, with regular lumber and some construction brackets, 5" casters that I found at Lowe's. Will post pictures when it's finished either tomorrow or the day after. Hurray, it's getting close to the day when it goes to get painted!
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 09-09-2006, 10:36 PM
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Dolly On

Finally scrounged up a two-day weekend to work on the car. The goal was to detach all suspension components and rear-axle, and attach the chassis to a finished wooden dolly. I'm happy to report that the rear end and the dolly have both been dealt with today, with the front suspension remaining for tomorrow. I had loosened the trailing arm bolts and detached the A-shaped torque arm a few weeks ago, but was nevertheless surprised that the axle came off quite readily, following the workshop manual's instructed procedure - no springs bounced off my face. I'd also thought that the rear axle would weigh a great deal, so I dropped it onto two of my metal dollies; this worked nicely, but the axle really didn't weigh that much.

Thanks goes to Ossopedia for providing me with detailed pictures of his wooden chassis dolly, after which mine was modeled. It rolls on 5-inch Lowes casters, with ease despite the weight of the chassis.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 09-09-2006, 10:40 PM
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2006, 07:20 AM
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Your dolly turned out quite nice!
Just a few words of caution: while wood is sufficient for supporting this body weight, be careful when rolling over irregular surfaces (joints or cracks in concrete). The tendency is to push a little harded if a wheel gets caught by anything. I expect your block-upon-block design is only fastened with wire nails which move as the dolly flexes - avoid any excessive stresses for your Giulia's and your own safety.
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Old 09-11-2006, 08:30 AM
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GTD,

Thanks for your kind reminder. The blocks are attached together by construction brackets and screws, and I will further increase the number of these before the chassis is transported. In the past two days of rolling around the garage, the setup seemed to hold up well, however.

I had planned on taking off the front suspension yesterday, but the springs took up most of my time. A spring compressor was borrowed from a local Alfista friend, which made the job much easier and safer than using one of those three-pronged compressors one finds on Eastwood, for lack of the correct AR spring tool. I'll post a picture of this "invention" later tonight.

Now that the springs are gone, the a-arms should be a breeze.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2006, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTD
Patrick
Your dolly turned out quite nice!
Just a few words of caution: while wood is sufficient for supporting this body weight, be careful when rolling over irregular surfaces (joints or cracks in concrete). The tendency is to push a little harded if a wheel gets caught by anything. I expect your block-upon-block design is only fastened with wire nails which move as the dolly flexes - avoid any excessive stresses for your Giulia's and your own safety.
If the casters are held with 3' lag bolts, the chances of the wheels getting ripped off are slim. I am concerned that there isn't any cross bracing. If the dolly flexes, I would recommend some cross braces. Better to over-engineer than to get in trouble. It's looking good, Pat.
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Old 09-11-2006, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pathung
I had planned on taking off the front suspension yesterday, but the springs took up most of my time. A spring compressor was borrowed from a local Alfista friend, which made the job much easier and safer than using one of those three-pronged compressors one finds on Eastwood, for lack of the correct AR spring tool. I'll post a picture of this "invention" later tonight.

Now that the springs are gone, the a-arms should be a breeze.
Pat, I found that the easiest way to do the springs was to use a single length of threaded rod (M10)as a compressor. This is inserted in place of the shock. Double nuts on the top and bottom, with a single running nut to compress the spring. Use the bottom double nuts to stop the rod from rotating and a ratchet ring spanner to work on the running nut. Turn the bottom shock mount "upside down" so it protudes from the spring pan to give better access to the running nut. Use heavy duty washers under the top and running nuts. I also put two shorter lengths of rod in place of two spring pan bolts to help locate it and as back up if anything happened to the compressor.

AlfaStop in the UK has the grease seals for the lower A arms if you need any.

Simon
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2006, 10:30 PM
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...I am concerned that there isn't any cross bracing. If the dolly flexes, I would recommend some cross braces. Better to over-engineer than to get in trouble...
I was in fact thinking of cross-bracing, but something stopped me before going further. Interestingly, the weight of the chassis seems to rest mostly on three corners, while the fourth can be lifted a cm or so off the ground without too much effort. I'm not sure if bracing would exacerbate this problem or not, but it's definitely a plus if all four casters carry equal weight, and are in contact with the ground at all times. If bracing correct this problem, I'm afraid that it'd simply mean that the chassis is being "bent" from its original shape? The doors are still in place, so things should be as if the car were sitting on its own wheels, I'd imagine.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2006, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Lo Fo SI
Pat, I found that the easiest way to do the springs was to use a single length of threaded rod (M10)as a compressor. This is inserted in place of the shock. Double nuts on the top and bottom, with a single running nut to compress the spring. Use the bottom double nuts to stop the rod from rotating and a ratchet ring spanner to work on the running nut. Turn the bottom shock mount "upside down" so it protudes from the spring pan to give better access to the running nut. Use heavy duty washers under the top and running nuts. I also put two shorter lengths of rod in place of two spring pan bolts to help locate it and as back up if anything happened to the compressor.

AlfaStop in the UK has the grease seals for the lower A arms if you need any.

Simon
Simon,

Your description is very close to the contraption I borrowed from my friend. It's a long, threaded rod as you described, with one single nut on top, one suitably-sized 1/4" thick holding bracket at the bottom, backed by double washers and a custom-made 2" long/deep aluminum running nut. With the spring and pan between the two ends, I was able to compress the spring enough to undo the remaining three bolts/nuts that held the pan to the lower wishbone; once this was done, threading out the running nut relaxed the spring gradually till the nut came off the rod, and the spring did a short but harmless hop to the ground - I suppose that the rod could have been longer to eliminate ANY compression in the spring before the nut reached the rod's end. I don't have my camera with me tonight, but I'll post a picture of the compressor tomorrow. Thanks for your input! And yes, I will need NEW seals and anything that degrades over time.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2006, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pathung
I was in fact thinking of cross-bracing, but something stopped me before going further. Interestingly, the weight of the chassis seems to rest mostly on three corners, while the fourth can be lifted a cm or so off the ground without too much effort. I'm not sure if bracing would exacerbate this problem or not, but it's definitely a plus if all four casters carry equal weight, and are in contact with the ground at all times. If bracing correct this problem, I'm afraid that it'd simply mean that the chassis is being "bent" from its original shape? The doors are still in place, so things should be as if the car were sitting on its own wheels, I'd imagine.
The chassis doesn't way that much. So, if the weight of the chassis gets transfered to the other three casters, you may be alright. The wheels I used were rated at 700 pounds, each. One of the casters would, sometimes, not rest on the garage floor as the floor was irregular. This means the dolly was pretty rigid. I prefer to have it over engineered, especially if I am going to be under one corner of the car.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2006, 11:28 AM
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Patrick,
I'm currently at work restoring a 1964 101, so we both have succumbed to a similar madness.
I am going to post a query regarding windshield replacement, possibly in another section if one seems more appropriate. You might look for a thread developing (I hope).
I have found a number of curious parts on my spider that suggest at one time some scrounging about junk yards may have happened. In particular this regarding the instruments. I have two of the older type guages and one with the newer face. Maybe that is how you lucked out with your veloce guages. I have found matching ones with the newer face, and done some cosmetics on them. They look pretty good.
Best, Jonathan Webb
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