
05-12-2007, 11:36 PM
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Black is Faster...
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Aptos, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTD
Patrick
BUMP
Time for an update! How goes this project?
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Uh.... REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEAL SLOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW.
Got one turn signal installed; that's about it! I do however intend to ready the parts that require chroming Sunday morning, and start looking over the wiper assembly to see how I can clean it up a bit before putting it back in. Little details that take an awful lot of time. I guess that installing the underpinnings was the easy part!
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05-14-2007, 12:13 AM
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Black is Faster...
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Despite it being Mother's Day, I got some work done in the morning, mainly organizing all the parts that need chroming. The only thing left to do before sending the parts off is to extract the windshield posts from the windshield assembly.
In regards to preventing small pieces from getting lost (such as a screw) at the plater's, does anyone have a system that works well? Photos are good for proving what the plater received, but it doesn't seem to prevent the parts from getting lost.
Attaching some pictures of the parts awaiting chroming; as you can see, most of it is quite pitted and will need some filling work.
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05-14-2007, 11:04 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: North Coast Calif.
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Patrick,
That has got to be the straightest grill that I've ever seen!
Could you please post (or PM) the place you're sending these items for plating? I've got a similar bunch of parts needing chrome. I experimented with the "chrome" paint from Alsa Corp. Fergetaboutit!!!!! Not very chromistic and brittle as all get out. Your car is a beaut.
Jonathan Webb
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05-14-2007, 04:40 PM
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sydney Australia
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Patrick,
I'd do a little bit at a time. Yes it will be more expensive but these places loose things and then you would be stuffed.
I would also only use a place that you have recommendations from classic car people.
Best of luck.
Pete
__________________
ps: Remember it's all just opinions 
'71 1750 Series 2 GTV: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?p=208078
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05-14-2007, 07:12 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Western Massachusetts/Space Coast, FL
Posts: 391
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Pat,
Your stuff looks better than mine did! The best way to avoid losing pieces is to go with a shop that doesn't lose little pieces. Also, it is better to go with a big batch than to do a little at a time. I have over $7000.00 in chrome so far and it is flawless, concours quality chrome on potmetal, steel, and brass. Not cheap, but very well done. Pieces were straightened, filled, copper plated, filed and sanded, copper plated again and chromed with poly valent chrome that looks like water.
My chrome guy is in Massachusetts, so he may not be convenient for you, but I am more than pleased with his work. He photos and batches every job that comes in.
__________________
Terry Rushbrook
SNO Director, Western Massachusetts
'65 Guilia Spider Veloce (project)
'79 Spider Veloce (in FL)
Nothing drives like an ALFA!
www.alfamagic.shutterfly.com
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05-14-2007, 08:28 PM
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Black is Faster...
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Thanks for the input, guys!
Now I don't know what to do - little batch or big batch? Since I don't have too many pieces to chrome (items not shown in the pictures will probably be replaced with reproductions), perhaps I'll just do two batches - one for large items, another for small items.
I was considering Superior Chrome in San Jose, but just found Custom Chrome, Inc. in Morgan Hill. Superior looked at some of my larger pieces earlier when I took them in for a rough cost-estimate, and actually repaired the center grille for free when I went back to pick up the parts for later chroming; I thought that was very nice. They also asked me straight-off if I wanted concourse or normal-level chrome, which increased my confidence and trust in them. Superior apparently does chrome on classics, but mostly American vehicles. I'll however investigate the Morgan Hill shop in the coming days and report back.
Jonathan, a local friend of mine had his '62 Spider's chrome done in Sacramento, and is very satisfied with the work - good chrome and no lost pieces; my friend highly recommends that shop. If Sac is more up your alley, let me know and I'll get you some contact info.
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05-14-2007, 08:30 PM
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Black is Faster...
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Join Date: Jul 2005
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By the way, the very straight vent window posts were repaired by my friend, who built a jig to fix his, and mine, for a nominal fee. If anyone's interested in having his/hers repaired by my friend, let me know.
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05-15-2007, 09:13 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: atlanta
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chrome
Patrick:
If you feel comfortable, why don't you throe out some ballpark dollar figures for your chroming project for the rest of us around the country who will soon face the same undertaking
Understand quality differences and certainly the fact that in Georgia, I imagine prices will be cheaper than in sunny California...
Other folk feel free to chime in. I've been putting off rechroming my 63 spider for 20 years! Done in the beginning, I'd probably need to redo by now anyway, so would still face price escalation.
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05-15-2007, 10:35 AM
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Location: New Hampshire
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Patrick
I strongly suggest you wait to find a second headlight ring before chroming the one and finding out it doesn't match its mate.
Regarding small parts - it's best to screw tiny fasteners into a sheet of cardboard or plastic and photograph them rather than take a pic of a plastic bag and later argue over how many items it held. You still have to trust the plater not to lose the stuff.
Your tail light assemblies need the lamp fixture removed.
I don't see your hood and trunk hinges in your pics.
Is the same shop going to polish your sill spears and other SS bits?
Regarding concours or driver quality of plating: It's worth it to pay the extra for the major bits you can't miss seeing; the hinges, door and trunk handles and headlight rings - IMO.
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Alfista Sapien
Localphone: Cheap International Calls
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05-15-2007, 08:18 PM
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Black is Faster...
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Join Date: Jul 2005
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Gowanusvin (my tongue almost fell off there),
I currently don't have dollar figures at all, since Superior Chrome hasn't seen every part that I have to chrome yet; however, I'm very comfortable posting the dollar figures here when I have them for everyone's benefit.
GTD, one of my headlight rings was a non-Carello and badly pitted, which doesn't match the one that I'm chroming (with Carello inscription). To match the good one, I bought a repro (or is it NOS?) with the Carello inscription on top - they looked the same the last time I looked, but I'd better compare them again.
My old hinges (hood and trunk) were all quite beat up, so I purchased new ones. The hood scoop trim isn't too bad, but I'm not sure if the threaded "bolts" underneath will still adequately retain nuts due to worn threads - a new piece costs $$ at Centerline; I've yet to decide about this one. The same goes with the four windshield mushroom bolts.
I haven't asked whether the shop would polish SS parts; I hope so, and thanks for the reminder!
Would bumpers and windshield posts/vent window fit your definition of "major bits" as well? That'll pretty much cover all the chrome on the car.
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05-16-2007, 07:25 PM
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Location: New Hampshire
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Patrick
Quote:
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Would bumpers and windshield posts/vent window fit your definition of "major bits" as well?
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Windshield posts would definitely be major bits - but be wary of having them "over plated". They're a _itch to refit if there is too much plating added to them. The non-operating vent window shouldn't be a difficult piece to plate. It's the compound curves and wide surfaces that will haunt you forever if they have less than premium quality plating.
The bumpers were never super finished as delivered by ALFA. Nearly all originals today show flaws on the underside and rust on the backside. It's a personal decision; do you make them better than new or simply looking good on top and live with flaws on the underside?
It isn't a bad idea to weld on new hardware - the original studs are usually weakened after 40+ years. Better to replace them now rather than have them snap while assembling.
Your big concern with bumpers should be the fit of the overriders when all the plating is done. Nothing is worse than paying for plating and having a poor fit up when you do your final assembly. Insist on your plater fitting the overriders to the curve of the bumpers at each phase of plating to insure no gaps or excuses when done.
Your hood trim fasteners can be built up with silver solder and rethreaded for a secure attachment.
My reason for mentioning the headlight rings is that chrome can vary in color and luster depending on the plater. I'd send both rings to assure that they return as a pair but be aware, many a plater has "lost" the Carello inscription due to overzealous buffing.
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Alfista Sapien
Localphone: Cheap International Calls
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05-16-2007, 07:58 PM
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Black is Faster...
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Join Date: Jul 2005
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GTD,
Thanks very much for the pointers. I'll definitely keep them all in mind when I start taking the pieces over to the plater's.
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05-16-2007, 11:08 PM
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Location: Seattle, WA USA
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Patrick-
Simply amazing job... 
__________________
Pat Hood, Member- South Seattle Super Secret Sedan Society
[COLOR=DarkRed]-59 Giulietta Sprint Normale[/COLOR]
[COLOR=Silver]-67 Giulia Super 1600- "Patience"[/COLOR]
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05-17-2007, 08:16 AM
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Black is Faster...
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Join Date: Jul 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarPoor
Patrick-
Simply amazing job... 
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Thank you, Pat, for reading and compliments!
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05-18-2007, 08:12 PM
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Black is Faster...
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Join Date: Jul 2005
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Call to experts... why doesn't my wiring diagram show the foot-operated windshield washer squirter switch/pedal? My car came with the gadget (wired), but without the diagram showing what color wires go to it, I'm not sure which wires on my new harness to use. Does anybody know what color wires go to which terminals? My picture doesn't show the wires' colors too well - see below. Thanks.
ALSO: same question for the low/high beam foot-op'ed dip switch.
Will attempt to install the fuse box this weekend, aside from taking apart the windshield assembly for chroming.
Last edited by pathung; 05-18-2007 at 08:15 PM.
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