'63 Giulia Spider Normale Restoration (Euro) - Page 13

**Gordon Raymond** · #**181** (**permalink**) 03-12-2007, 11:38 PM

Patrick,
I'm not sure if I have a photo of the brackets Jack Beck, of Orion motorsports, made up for the replacement 4:56 LS axle in my AUSCA spider. They are REALLY beefy. I had to make up new bolts to install. The AUSCA brackets on the GTA 5:12 locked axle were substantial, but Jacks experience has been to make them even more rugged. Like you, I don't think one can be too careful here. Gordon Raymond

**Lionel Velez** · #**182** (**permalink**) 03-13-2007, 05:04 AM

Patrick, Terry, et al,

I have differential brackets, four sets available. I also understand that these are used on differential conversion to a later model differential to be installed on the earlier 750's and 101's series cars. I also understand that these make a stronger box on to the existing 750 and 101 trailing arm support. The 750's and 101 series cars do have a weak trailing arm box. I am welding these re-enforcement plates to my differentials’. See photos and if anyone needs a set there will be available for $60.00 free shipping I only have four sets left. If any interest, please contact me at Lionel.Velez@gmail.com

John B. · #**183** (**permalink**) 03-13-2007, 07:30 AM

I was thinking of braces that come off the stock mounts at 90*. I believe there are pics at the Yahoo 750/101 site but I couldn't find them.

**pathung** · #**184** (**permalink**) 03-13-2007, 06:10 PM

Back to those straps... Terry, I just measured mine, and they turned out to be over 29 inches long! I'm going to be shortening them by sandwiching the straps between the two small metal plates (effectively shortening the strap by over an inch), to see if this keeps the springs better situated in the spring/shock towers. I'm also hoping that installing the shocks will further minimize the likelihood that the springs would pop out when the axle suddenly drops due to a pothole, or when I do my own version of the film rendezvous over the streets of San Francisco.

**pathung** · #**185** (**permalink**) 03-18-2007, 09:43 PM

I changed my mind. I decided to cut the straps to length (26.5"), and drilled new holes to fit the original backing plates. To take the straps off, I had to drop the axle again, unfortunately, but this was a good opportunity to install the shocks without the springs in the way. The red Konis look good installed, but so as to avoid the kit-car look, I painted the yellow Centerline springs black.

I haven't reinstalled the axle yet as I'm awaiting a pair of rear axle rubber buffers (the rubber stops below the straps) to arrive from Alfastop - the ones I bought previously from ClassicAlfa.com weren't "curved" downward at the edges, to conform to the strap backing plate, and so the two screws didn't fit well into the slightly-angled threaded holes in the chassis. They must have sent me the wrong part.

I should make some good progress and shoot more pictures next weekend.

**user459** · #**186** (**permalink**) 03-19-2007, 03:40 AM

Pat,

I ended up ordering new straps from Tony at Alfastop in the UK. His are 27.5" and everyone seems happy with them.

As for the bump stops, good luck finding the correct ones! I was told by Centerline and by Alfastop that the ones with the curved plates are not available nor expected soon. Centerline suggested buying the straight ones and beating them into the shape of the old ones. I don't know what that would do to the hole alignment, but it doesn't sound like a good idea to me.

My backing plates are not too bad, I bead blasted them and painted them and they came out looking fine. The rubbers are not in real bad shape either. One has a minor split and they have some residual dirt and undercoating on them. I would like new rubbers, but I don't know how they are attached to the plates. I wonder if they are formed on the plates or just cemented to them? Maybe someone has the rubbers and they can be glued to the old plates..... I'll check with a couple of Alfa buddies and see if they have a sacrificial one to play with.

I was wondering how you planned to get the shocks installed with the axle and springs already in place! I'm leaving my springs yellow because I don't want to have to deal with them later if the black paint flakes of and leave bits of yellow showing.

Good Luck!
Terry

**pathung** · #**187** (**permalink**) 03-19-2007, 08:40 PM

Thanks, Terry, I might just re-use my old bump stops as well, but I forget what shape they're in; will have to check.

In regards to installing the shocks, despite having the rear axle down, which made installing from the car's bottom fairly easy (I would've needed someone else to secure the shock from the top with a nut while I propped it up through the tower from the bottom, though), I inserted them through the hole on the back side of the passenger compartment, bottom of the shock into the hole and down, then vertically up through the trunk-top hole and secure with rubber donut, washer and double nuts; a one-man job. I took the shocks out during tear-down in the reverse sequence, while the car still had its old springs and axle attached - it's do-able, and actually quite easy. I believe that these were also the instructions in the workshop manual.

concept 101 · #**188** (**permalink**) 03-21-2007, 10:52 AM

Terry,
Did you have any problems loosening the screws holding the backing plates? On my car they sit as tight as welded together with the chassis. Impossible to loosen them whatever and how hard I try. I understand I could heat them up, but by doing this, I will burn up the rubber on the one that is still good (which is not that desirable). Would appreciate any help or good tips you, or anyone else could give me.
Thanks, Dennis

**user459** · #**189** (**permalink**) 03-21-2007, 12:30 PM

Dennis,
Fortunately, my screws came out fairly easily. I cleaned the area of the screws with a can of aerosol brake cleaner and then hit them with Kroil penetrating oil in anticipation of a hard time. I let them set for a day or two and then got in there with a humungous screwdriver and applied as much pressure as I dared. They all came out! I was waiting for the one that would cause me to pull my hair out, but I was able to break all of them loose. I had an impact screwdriver at the ready, but didn't need it. Have you tried one of those? You strike the impact screwdriver with a hammer to provide the force necessary to break it loose.

Let me know how you make out.

Terry

concept 101 · #**190** (**permalink**) 03-21-2007, 01:01 PM

Terry,

Thanks for the advice. Impact screwdriver is often times good to use, but in this position, I´m not sure about it, it might be difficult to hit the screw with full power and I don´t have the means to flopp the car to get a good access to that area. I don´t think I would venture it, to mess up the screw´s groove would mean a minor disaster in terms of a lot of elaborate job ahead (drilling etc). I think I will try it again as you did, clean up the area around and soak it with a lot of penetrating oil in a couple of days and then I´ll see. If that doesn´t help, I will have to heat it up as a last resort, burning the good one in the process and hope that Tony gets those backing plates soon, have been asking for them for almost a year now.

**pathung** · #**191** (**permalink**) 03-21-2007, 07:45 PM

Well guys, I discovered that I only have one good rubber mount left, so I've inquired with Tony for fresh ones with curved backing. He advised that they are being "made" as of our conversation, so we'll keep our fingers crossed. Once he notifies me of availability, I'll post here to let everyone know.

Like Terry, I Krolled the screws and went in with the biggest screwdriver I've got. As I was tearing down the car, I had already uninstalled the axle, and with it out of the way, I had pretty good access to the screws. They were really tough to loosen still, and I'm suprised that my brute force didn't damage the screw grooves much. Good luck!

As a sidenote, Tony carries the front suspension limit cable's top end mounting hardware/rubber set, complete, lucky me.

**user459** · #**192** (**permalink**) 03-22-2007, 04:40 AM

Good point, Pat. It is so much easier to get to the screws with the rear end out of the car. I don't know how you would get to the otherwise. It does take a lot of torque to break them loose.

Pat,
Last time I talked to Tony he was not too hopeful about getting the bump stops with the curved base. He said he has been waiting for the German manufacturer for quite some time, and no orders are forthcoming. I just got a pair of the straight base ones from Centerline and am going to see what I can do to either bend them to the same curvature as the originals or remove the rubber pieces and bond them to the curved originals.

There doesn't seem to be much of a difference between the new one and the old. The base is slightly narrower and the bend is really not that radical. The screws holes should line up as well. In the photos, the old one is on the left, the new one on the right.

Thoughts?

Terry

GTD · #**193** (**permalink**) 03-22-2007, 06:07 AM

You Guys are learning!
101's bump stops are different! It sucks when you have to buy the wrong new part and modify it ...but!
If you have access to a milling machine you can trim the new bump stop plate to match the old one. If you have to you can hack the extra metal off with a saw. The curve can be replicated by carefully compressing the plate in a press or a BIG vise.

**user459** · #**194** (**permalink**) 03-22-2007, 06:29 AM

Actually, the new bump stops are narrower than the old ones, so milling is not necessary. The old ones are 4 cm wide and the new ones are 3.2 cm wide. The rubber is the same width on the new ones all the way to the top, while the stock rubbers taper to 3 cm at the top. I'll try bending the plates today.

Terry

**Gordon Raymond** · #**195** (**permalink**) 03-22-2007, 07:40 AM

More GREAT photo's! Do the flat plate stops fit some Giulia Giuliettas as is? I've worked on these cars (spiders) 40 years + and cannot remember. Seems I've only seen the curved ones. If so, what do the flat ones fit? Making parts where none exist, I see no problem in bending the flat ones.
Gordon Raymond