Giulietta Sprint Veloce -61 abnormal restoration - Page 5 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #61 of 235 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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Building new front fenders - shaping wheel arches

9. Now it’s time to shape the return of the arch. Keep a dolly on the inside of the arch, following the lower line while at the same time use a ball shaped hammer with indirect hitting below the lower arch line (see C). (Unfortunately I did not take any pictures, but I hope the drawings help out.)
10. Once the return is at 90 deg to the arch, cut away the excess metal leaving just as much necessary to cover the bead wire (see D).
11. Starting from the center of the arch, clamp the bead wire with weld clamps very tightly to the newly formed return corner. Hammer down the arch lip return so that it locks the wire - you should notice that the lower arch corner will become rounded from the metal being pulled. Move the weld clamps and continue hammering down the bead all the way around.
12. To finish the bead wiring, hold a dolly firmly while letting a flat hammer glide along the inside of the fender closing the arch lip return (see F). You can use a plier to get the flange properly closed. If you got it right the arch lip return should closely follow the wire almost closing the gap to the fender. The lower arch edge should now be rounded.
13. After a little filing the wheel arch should look similar to the lower picture. Ready!
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post #62 of 235 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 12:39 PM
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Congratulations on both undertaking such difficult work in a home shop, and showing us how to do it. What was the diameter of the bead wire you used? Keep up the good work!

Tony

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post #63 of 235 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 10:32 PM
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Dear DonMartin,

Super impressive! Inspiring!

Laurence
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post #64 of 235 (permalink) Old 01-12-2014, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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Hello Bob, Tony and Laurence,
Thanks for your comments!

Tony, the wire I use has a diameter of 4mm.

All the best!
Martin
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post #65 of 235 (permalink) Old 01-12-2014, 07:29 PM
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Hello Don,

Love watching the progress and your work. It is fabulous.

Lionel
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post #66 of 235 (permalink) Old 01-13-2014, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Lionel!
Your comment is much appreciated, coming from a real expert.

Martin
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post #67 of 235 (permalink) Old 05-13-2014, 03:08 PM
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Hi, are you doing? Any progress?
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post #68 of 235 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 12:18 AM Thread Starter
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Hello ringobetterlint,
Thanks for asking. There is a steady but slow progress. I would actually like to spend more time working on the giulietta, but my more than full time occupation as an engine professor and being a five kids father prevents that. So, a couple of hours a week is typically what I spend on the car. The best therapy in the world though. Finding time for writing about the progress is usually what comes last on the priority list. So, thanks for asking and making me do something about it.

Actually I came as far as having had all the paint ordered and delivered. Almost all metalwork from rear taillights to front end bulkhead has been finished with the exception of new door skins and adjusting the door gaps. So when I enter the garage it looks like there is not that much left to do. But that is kind of deceptive. The other day I made a list of things that needed to be fixed on the shell - before painting. It would be terrible to have to grind and weld after painting just because missing some stupid thing. The list contains 40 or so items typically with correcting dents, cleaning threads, welding in missing weld nuts, welding shut none original holes in the instrument panel, drilling holes and welding backing plates for the safety harness, cutting and welding in missing or replacing broken tabs for holding the cables etc etc all these things that need to be 100% and are so easily forgotten for a car that has been so rotten as mine and lacking signs of how things should be.

Now I will arrange some pics and describe how I did a new boot floor.
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post #69 of 235 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 02:47 AM Thread Starter
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Boot floor

When I got the car, the boot floor had already been replaced with just a flat sheet and no reinforcements. Fortunately the fuel tank supports that are specific for GSV and parts of the original floor had been saved, so that I could see the profiles of the pressings and so on. Since I had never done anything like that before I was hesitating and spending quite some time thinking on how to produce a floor with all the correct pressings and shapes without deformations. When you pull the metal to create the ridges its easy that everything else gets deformed and the floor banana shaped. I also did need to reproduce the floor in the car and judging from the remains, the pressings actually has the same shape as in the boot. I also needed to produce the front inner fenders since those were cut away altogether, but those pressings do not have the same shape as in the floor or trunk – so that is another story.

At the university where I work I have access to a beader, but there were no wheels with the correct shape. So, the first step was to produce the wheels with correct shape, which I did by spinning. As you can see the shape is actually quite triangular and not very round. To pre-stretch the metal at the ends of the pressings I spun a punch. I am sorry for the low quality of the pictures. One shouldn’t use the mobile for taking pictures of course... I have now invested in a good camera so pictures should be better from now on.
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post #70 of 235 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 02:49 AM Thread Starter
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Boot floor

One of my daughters helped with marking the pressings and then I punched all the endings. To prevent deformation from stretching when beading the ridges I welded supports (not visible in pics) to the sheet metal and then used the beader to create all the ridges in-between the pre-stretched endings. This technique worked nicely and everything got very straight. The floor pan pressings were done the same way.
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post #71 of 235 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 02:53 AM Thread Starter
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Boot floor

The boot was trimmed and two metal rings spun and then used to press the depression for the tank sender lid. The GSV specific “tunnel” for the tank breather took me some time to figure out how it was welded in place (thanks Lionel Velez and Bill Gillham for pics) The fuel tank supports were easier since I had them at hand. The tower for the filler entrance could be reused after welding a new hinge and blasting away the little rust there was.

I decided to keep the repair of one previous owner that removed the protrusion of the boot floor outside the body shell – thus giving this late GS the much nicer treatment of the series 1 GS. Therefore, I folded down the rear part of the boot floor and welded it in place along that fold. I cut away the old floor on top of the flanges of the longitudinal frame beams and seam welded along that edge – strong and invisible from below. Along the front I welded the metal edge to edge. The supports for the jack had been savaged of by a previous owner, so I to reproduce those and weld them to place. The boot floor part for the battery shelf was hand shaped and welded into place the same way as the rest of the floor.
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post #72 of 235 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 02:54 AM Thread Starter
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Boot floor

More pics..
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post #73 of 235 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 02:58 AM Thread Starter
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Boot floor

While rebuilding the floor I could see how the GSV was modified from the standard GS. It seems to me that the GS bodywork was actually first finished and then cut up and modified for the GSV. In the pic from another car I have added the cut lines. The two triangular ends were then folded down and the GSV specific horns welded into place. On the rear end of the beams wedges were added for the GSV. I reproduced the beams, but the horns were good enough to reuse after blasting. My spot welder did not reach all the way so I seam welded in the center, which may be just as well since that is stronger and more reliable than spot welds from aftermarket equipment. I have reinforced the beams in the middle and added holes since I will use a small racing tank reaching only half way back beneath the boot.
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post #74 of 235 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 03:07 AM
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Beautiful work and welds. And am I correct in that you are a professor of engineering?
Pete

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post #75 of 235 (permalink) Old 05-16-2014, 05:54 AM
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Terrific, inventive work which you make seem so easy. I really ought to go back to college and learn to do all this for real.


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to all parts I have advertised on the BB so far. Plenty more! Just ask.
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