Giulietta Sprint Veloce -61 abnormal restoration - Page 4 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #46 of 235 (permalink) Old 03-29-2010, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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Restored instrument cover

Usually I pop down to the workshop a couple of hours during sunday. Yesterday, the two smallest children were i'll and I did not want to leave my wife alone with them, so I decided to deal with something on the car I could do home.

I was inspired by the very nice fit of the instrument cover of the Veloce -62 I have as inspiration (see previous post). It looks like it has less padding than original and an extra seem. The texture is also a bit coarser than what I usually saw on pictures.

I decided to do something similar. I had some black leather leftover from a restoration of Bertone 1750 GTV -69 "zagato" chairs. Located my old Pfaff sowing machine (its a bulldozer) and sew two pieces of leather together. I then added the extra seem and glued the trimmed piece, without any padding at all, directly on the instrument cover which had been sand blasted and painted half a year ago.

Not strictly original, but with a very solid feeling of quality to it.

Martin
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post #47 of 235 (permalink) Old 03-29-2010, 07:59 AM
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Looks good--are you going to post a pic of the sewing machine?


Bob,
Director BC Chapter SNO.
Avatar is the 69 Super, bought new.
Current Ride: 67 Super, bought in 2013: Red/Black, "Tuned" 2 L.
Daily drivers, beginning in 1965: 750 Spider, Giulia Spider, 105 Sprint GT, 101 Sprint, 69 Super, 79 Alfetta Sedan. Collectors beginning in 2006: 101 Spider, 101 Sprint. Both sold.
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post #48 of 235 (permalink) Old 03-29-2010, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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Hahaha, here comes a pic of the bulldozer.

Looking kind of neat... but very robust. Its a semi-industrial machine that that although not on par with the real industrial machines is stable enough (with some patiance) to do leather works. It manages to go through 8 layers of leather (corner of car seats were two lines of piping meet), but that is really the limit.

Actually this Pfaff is older than my Giulietta. Its from -58.

Btw, did alfa produce sewing machines? I know they produced stowes. Would be cool to restore an alfa with an alfa sewing machine.

Martin
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post #49 of 235 (permalink) Old 03-29-2010, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Air scoops

Lionel,

It is much appriciated if you have the chance to post the pictures of the air scoops.

Regarding the wiring harness. Its funny really, how the wiring harness could survive in a such surprizingly good condition considering how rotted the car was. It looked really crappy at a first glance but was covered by oil, muck and paint and so somehow survived. It helped a lot that it had been little tangled with. I spent early autumn, in the garden, dismounting the harness, cleaning every single cable and connector, putting it back together replacing some of the outer hoses (is hoses the corret phrase?) and just a few of the cables. Most of the individual cables were still soft and flexible and with few traces of oxidation.

I have put away the harness for storage, but can post pictures later on. The only thing missing here, is the lid to the fuse box.

Thanks, anyway for your offer.
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post #50 of 235 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 06:59 AM
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2nd Series Sprint Veloce air Vent

Martin,

As promised, here are a couple of photos from one of my Sprint Veloces. This particular one is for one like yours, a 2nd series Sprint Veloce. As evidenced by the photo this particular piece has gone through some rust repairs in the past. Hope this helps.

Lionel
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post #51 of 235 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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2nd Series Sprint Veloce air Vent

Thanks Lionel!

These pictures will be very helpful indeed.

Martin
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post #52 of 235 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Coupe air vent

The fresh air vent, under the instrument panel, had for some unknown reason been cut and deformed. Most of it was anyway quite rusted and the plastic handle to the butterfly valve broken. So I had it removed very early in the restoration. As I remembered it, it was fairly easy to break the two spot welds (one above and one below) by bending the assembly forth and back.

Now it felt like a good time to fix it.

First step was to roll a new tube to replace the destroyed one. The original tube has a flared edge and is hold together by five spot welds. I did the new tube the same way. Next step was to dismantle the air vent. The nut that holds the valve axle was welded on top (original?) and even though the weld was grinded away I managed to break off the axle just under the nut. Since the axle is spot welded to the butterfly, it is necessary to first remove the half cone shaped air deflector from the tube. This is done by drilling out the four spot welds that hold the deflector to the tube.

By drilling out six spot welds on the butterfly halves and carefully pulling the axle it could be removed. The broken piece on the axle was replaced with a cut bolt. To make sure the axle became welded straight I fixed the axle pieces in an aluminum angle. The pieces were sandblasted and the deflector welded to the pipe. Everything coated with a zinc primer.

I am not too happy with the corrosion pit marks left on the butterfly so I plan to make a new one. Fortunately enough I have all the pieces of the broken handle so it should be possible to cast a new one. The tube can be installed and spot welded once the inner fender is in place again. The axle and butterfly will be reinstalled once the car has been painted.

Martin
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post #53 of 235 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
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Time to write a few lines again. Since I wrote the last time I have moved again to another city. I had no space for the car so I decided to build a garage at home where I can work on it. This provides easy access to the car so that I can maintain a much faster pace of the restoration than before - when I had to drive 30 minutes just to get to that garage. The new garage was finished early 2013 and is a basic 2 car garage of 50 m2. It basically only contains the Giulietta and my hand tools so I have a quite good space. My old racing GTV-6 is stored elsewhere.
When moving the Giulietta into the new garage I also built a stand for the car. This is possible to tilt and is on wheels, so it is easy to get the car in a good working position.
There has been some other progress as well since I wrote the last time. The driver door and luggage compartment floor has been completely rebuilt. The floor inside the car and cross beams have been replaced and finished. All the jack points have been rebuilt as well as the outer sills (for the second time). New headers (stainless steel) and engine mounts have been built. The steering column has been modified as well. I will write about and post pictures on all that later, but today I will describe the new front fenders I have built.
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post #54 of 235 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 06:12 AM Thread Starter
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Building new front fenders

As can be seen in the figures the original fenders where in a very bad shape with large parts rusted away and repaired many years ago in a pretty crude manner. The remaining original sheet metal was very thin. Instead of trying to repair them I thought I would try to build new ones from scratch. I have never done anything that “major” like this before so that would be interesting.
To get the correct shape I made a large number of different templates from the cars original fenders and Dennis Spanillers (Concept 101) Giulia Sprint 62 fenders. When “cross-checking” I realized that there were differences not only between the cars, but also for each car between left and right fenders. So, I have basically sticked with the shape from my original fenders, but where too rusted interpolated based on Dennis car.
I have to say that I am very fortunate to have Dennis and his car only 40 km away. He has been very helpful with providing me advice and access to his car. So, thank you very much Dennis!
Next step was to start shaping new metal by using an english wheel. The plan was to make the lower front part and fenders in big pieces. The front part went fine but I realized after a while that it was impossible (at least for me) to handle the front fenders as complete pieces. Instead they were cut in four parts then each given the correct shape and then welded together again.
Once the fenders had the correct outer shape the wheel arches could be shaped with hammers, wood-clubs and homemade slappers over a sandbag and dollies.
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post #55 of 235 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 06:15 AM Thread Starter
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Building new front fenders, more pics

!
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post #56 of 235 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 06:28 AM Thread Starter
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Building new front fenders - shaping wheel arches

The process to shape the wheel arches basically follows the steps 1-13:
1. Transfer the wheel arch shape from the original fender onto paper. Make sure that the paper sits close to the fender everywhere by attaching with tape through holes made in the paper.
2. Tape the paper onto the newly shaped fender. Scribe the lines through the paper onto the new fender.
3. Fill in the scribed arch lines on the metal with a felt pen. Cut away the excess metal on the inside, but make sure to leave enough metal to fold back the arch lip return later (30 mm or so).
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post #57 of 235 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
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Building new front fenders - shaping wheel arches

4. We need to transfer the lines to the inside since we work mostly from this side. Use a balltip hammer or similar (not sharp) and gently mark the line. Fill in the lines on the inside with a felt pen and add one line marking the transition from the fender to the arch. Make sure to mark the position and number all templates you use, to avoid any confusion later on.
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post #58 of 235 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
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Building new front fenders - shaping wheel arches

5. Now it’s time to start shaping. From the inside stretch the upper arch line with a rounded club or similar. We need to get material to the arch edge so it doesn’t get to thin and crack. Work from the transition line to the lower arch line (see A). Don’t worry that it looks pretty ugly, but make sure to stretch enough - more to the center and less at the leading and trailing edges of the arch. It takes some force and is noisy so use hearing protection.
6. When you are happy with the progress, start shaping from the outside towards the upper arch line to even out the bumps and get more shape. The idea is to push the metal towards the upper arch line (see B). I prefer to use a homemade slapper made out of an old a tire bar and polished on the hit surface. The small radius helps achieving the small radius of the arch, while the length helps avoiding making bumps in the wrong direction (evening out the blows).
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post #59 of 235 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
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Building new front fenders - shaping wheel arches

7. Continue in several iterations working from the outside and then the inside, continuously checking your progress with your templates. Use a flat dolly on the back side to flatten the lower part of the arch (direct hitting with hammer on dolly) and the sharp radius of the upper part of the arch by indirect hitting the dolly (slapper on radius with dolly under the flat lower arch part) Never hit directly on the sharp edge of the upper part of the arch. Instead drive the metal towards the edge so that it maintains its thickness. Avoid any sharp edged hammers.
8. When the correct shape is achieved for the upper part of the arch, plannish the whole area with the slapper and a hammer and a dolly supporting on the back side.
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post #60 of 235 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 07:19 AM
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Nice set-up in your new "shop"/

Wow on your work!!!


Bob,
Director BC Chapter SNO.
Avatar is the 69 Super, bought new.
Current Ride: 67 Super, bought in 2013: Red/Black, "Tuned" 2 L.
Daily drivers, beginning in 1965: 750 Spider, Giulia Spider, 105 Sprint GT, 101 Sprint, 69 Super, 79 Alfetta Sedan. Collectors beginning in 2006: 101 Spider, 101 Sprint. Both sold.
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