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Old 08-03-2009, 02:28 PM
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master cylinder

I resently removed my mc to rebuild it and am having no luck getting the end cap off.Are these things suposed to be on this tight??It's soaking in pb blaster right now ,but i literaly pulled my work bench loose from the wall trying to remove it.
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Old 08-03-2009, 05:26 PM
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Yea, they tend to be on pretty tight. I could never get mine off. However, it isn't obvious to me why it needs to come off - you don't need to hone the MC all the way to the very end. Later MC's have a one-piece body, without a removable endcap. So, just leave it on there.
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Old 08-03-2009, 06:57 PM
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Agreed... leave it on, put it in the parts cleaner and "clean er' up good".

Phillip
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Old 08-04-2009, 05:39 AM
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I have a chunk of angle iron with 2 holes drilled into it, which I welded to a large 1 ton box trailer for a 'platform to work on / against"

Lots of heat and an adjustable spanner of railway proportions has always worked for me.

Leastways the cap has submitted before I flipped the trailer.....

Ciao
Greig
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Old 08-04-2009, 05:49 AM
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Mechanical advantage will over come the monster. You will need the proper socket (Sears) and a breaker bar with extention ( 3 feet or so)and a a good firmly mounted vise that holds it. The 4 flats on the mounting bosses aren't going to hold it so find another way to hold it firmly in the vise. Shocking the body with gentle whacks on the body while the second person turns will break it loose. If you aren't comfortable doing it, take it to a local independent garage and challenge him for a 6 pack. Sometimes an air gun will pop it off. Rick
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Old 08-04-2009, 09:15 AM
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Thanks guys, It came down to small torch big wrench big hammer.Also what is the best brake fluid.am still waiting for a rebuild kit, been 2 months(international auto)anyone know where i could get one quik ?realy want to get the car done and DRIVE it before i have to sell it (#$%^&%@#@ i.r.s).
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Old 08-04-2009, 09:27 AM
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Any Dot 3 but Castol LMA is preferred.. Try Centerline or Dean Russell in Detroit
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Old 08-23-2009, 10:43 AM
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leakage

hello, finaly found a m.c rebuild kit and got my m.c back together. the new kit did not have the copper gasket for the end of the cylinder ,instead, they supply a rubber o-ring.I tried it out but found that the oring wants to squeeze out from the sealing surface when tightened(not very tight)doesnt seem like it would hold up to hydrolic presure even if it would stay in place. Has anyone used one of these ?tried useing the old copper gasket but still got minor leakage.any ideas or knowlege ??
thanks,john c
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Old 08-23-2009, 12:20 PM
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Well, if it leaks out, it must leak in, air that is. Sorry to say you need to fix that. It is a critical component to staying alive in a moving and stopping vehicles. First, I would raise hell with the supplier that sent you a kit with a rubber seal. Very nutty. Ask them to send you the proper one.

Next, remove the copper one and anneal it . See this site. Lastly check some gasket suppliers. How To Anneal Copper and Aluminium Washers | Motorcycle Co UK
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:31 PM
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will try to anneal it again(torch ran out of gas)and if i cant get it to seal that way ,i was thinking of flowing a thin layer of soft lead solder onto the copper.........the kit came from a reputable alfa guy in berkley.he was the only guy in the states who had one this time of year(dang euro's and their holliday).
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Old 08-24-2009, 02:08 AM
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Just heat it up dull-red hot & let it cool down again - just like Divotandtralee's website says, works every time.

Brakes are NOT an area you want to experiment with, apart from some very expensive crunching sounds which happen when the brakes fail, the steering shaft is aimed squarely at your chest & the steering box is directly in the line of "whack" on the nose - cheap or rushed brake jobs only end in pain - one way or another.

Buy the best brake parts that you can afford, check out Alfa Romeo car parts from AlfaStop: Brakes, Suspensions, Transmissions, Exhausts., Giulietta brakes are Tony's business.

Ciao
Greig
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Old 08-26-2009, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jc in rb View Post
will try to anneal it again(torch ran out of gas)and if i cant get it to seal that way ,i was thinking of flowing a thin layer of soft lead solder onto the copper.........the kit came from a reputable alfa guy in berkley.he was the only guy in the states who had one this time of year(dang euro's and their holliday).
You might consider having the MC sleeved. They are very often pitted. You might initially get a seal with a new set of seals, but the pitting will chew them up in a hurry.

I had good success with the following, but there are a bunch of good shops out there that will do it for you.

Jon

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/giul...-cylinder.html
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