
08-03-2009, 02:28 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: redondo beach,ca
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master cylinder
I resently removed my mc to rebuild it and am having no luck getting the end cap off.Are these things suposed to be on this tight??It's soaking in pb blaster right now ,but i literaly pulled my work bench loose from the wall trying to remove it.
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08-03-2009, 05:26 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Juan Capistrano
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Yea, they tend to be on pretty tight. I could never get mine off. However, it isn't obvious to me why it needs to come off - you don't need to hone the MC all the way to the very end. Later MC's have a one-piece body, without a removable endcap. So, just leave it on there.
__________________
Jay Mackro
San Juan Capistrano, CA
'63 Guilia spider
'65 Guilia Sprint GT
'67 Duetto
'91 164L
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08-03-2009, 06:57 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Holland, MI/Breckenridge, CO
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Agreed... leave it on, put it in the parts cleaner and "clean er' up good".
Phillip
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08-04-2009, 05:39 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Port Elizabeth, South Africa
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I have a chunk of angle iron with 2 holes drilled into it, which I welded to a large 1 ton box trailer for a 'platform to work on / against"
Lots of heat and an adjustable spanner of railway proportions has always worked for me.
Leastways the cap has submitted before I flipped the trailer.....
Ciao
Greig
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08-04-2009, 05:49 AM
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Location: Cape Cod
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Mechanical advantage will over come the monster. You will need the proper socket (Sears) and a breaker bar with extention ( 3 feet or so)and a a good firmly mounted vise that holds it. The 4 flats on the mounting bosses aren't going to hold it so find another way to hold it firmly in the vise. Shocking the body with gentle whacks on the body while the second person turns will break it loose. If you aren't comfortable doing it, take it to a local independent garage and challenge him for a 6 pack. Sometimes an air gun will pop it off. Rick
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08-04-2009, 09:15 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: redondo beach,ca
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Thanks guys, It came down to small torch big wrench big hammer.Also what is the best brake fluid.am still waiting for a rebuild kit, been 2 months(international auto)anyone know where i could get one quik ?realy want to get the car done and DRIVE it before i have to sell it (#$%^&%@#@ i.r.s).
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08-04-2009, 09:27 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Cape Cod
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Any Dot 3 but Castol LMA is preferred.. Try Centerline or Dean Russell in Detroit
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08-23-2009, 10:43 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: redondo beach,ca
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leakage
hello, finaly found a m.c rebuild kit and got my m.c back together. the new kit did not have the copper gasket for the end of the cylinder ,instead, they supply a rubber o-ring.I tried it out but found that the oring wants to squeeze out from the sealing surface when tightened(not very tight)doesnt seem like it would hold up to hydrolic presure even if it would stay in place. Has anyone used one of these ?tried useing the old copper gasket but still got minor leakage.any ideas or knowlege ??
thanks,john c
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08-23-2009, 12:20 PM
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Well, if it leaks out, it must leak in, air that is. Sorry to say you need to fix that. It is a critical component to staying alive in a moving and stopping vehicles. First, I would raise hell with the supplier that sent you a kit with a rubber seal. Very nutty. Ask them to send you the proper one.
Next, remove the copper one and anneal it . See this site. Lastly check some gasket suppliers. How To Anneal Copper and Aluminium Washers | Motorcycle Co UK
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08-23-2009, 07:31 PM
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will try to anneal it again(torch ran out of gas)and if i cant get it to seal that way ,i was thinking of flowing a thin layer of soft lead solder onto the copper.........the kit came from a reputable alfa guy in berkley.he was the only guy in the states who had one this time of year(dang euro's and their holliday).
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08-24-2009, 02:08 AM
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Location: Port Elizabeth, South Africa
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Just heat it up dull-red hot & let it cool down again - just like Divotandtralee's website says, works every time.
Brakes are NOT an area you want to experiment with, apart from some very expensive crunching sounds which happen when the brakes fail, the steering shaft is aimed squarely at your chest & the steering box is directly in the line of "whack" on the nose - cheap or rushed brake jobs only end in pain - one way or another.
Buy the best brake parts that you can afford, check out Alfa Romeo car parts from AlfaStop: Brakes, Suspensions, Transmissions, Exhausts., Giulietta brakes are Tony's business.
Ciao
Greig
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08-26-2009, 08:36 AM
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Location: Redondo Beach, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jc in rb
will try to anneal it again(torch ran out of gas)and if i cant get it to seal that way ,i was thinking of flowing a thin layer of soft lead solder onto the copper.........the kit came from a reputable alfa guy in berkley.he was the only guy in the states who had one this time of year(dang euro's and their holliday).
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You might consider having the MC sleeved. They are very often pitted. You might initially get a seal with a new set of seals, but the pitting will chew them up in a hurry.
I had good success with the following, but there are a bunch of good shops out there that will do it for you.
Jon
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/giul...-cylinder.html
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