Confortevole "Restoration" - Page 3

davisfamily · #31 (**permalink**) 09-09-2009, 07:13 AM

Where should I be heating? Around the hub and stud interfaces, I could guess, but is there like a "magic" spot I'm missing? Is there any concerns behind heating up the aluminum drum too much?
I am ordering some points and a belt today. Just one step closer to running!

davestebs · #32 (**permalink**) 09-09-2009, 07:43 AM

Dan,
The heater I used is a big thing made for heating garages etc. in a chilly Wisconsin winter. I heated the entire drum to probably not more than 150 degrees or so. I'm pretty sure the drums could get hotter than that during hard braking so I wasn't concerned. A hotter smaller heat source like a torch around the hub and studs didn't work.

davisfamily · #33 (**permalink**) 09-09-2009, 06:22 PM

Looking at my Glenn's manual, I rotated the engine to TDC on #1 to remove the distributor for cleaning. The manual said to have the slot in the engine pointing "towards the front" of the engine. It is pointing at about the 1:30pm-2:00pm area, which I identified as firing at TDC of the compression stroke for piston #1. Does this sound right?
To the distributor, does the VJU41BR Bosch dizzy have those internal weights that adjust the advance? It has the vacuum advance canister on the side. Any other points to address while cleaning it out?
I'm saying it will run by Halloween!

Ritmo100S · #34 (**permalink**) 09-09-2009, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davestebs

Dan,
The heater I used is a big thing made for heating garages etc. in a chilly Wisconsin winter. I heated the entire drum to probably not more than 150 degrees or so. I'm pretty sure the drums could get hotter than that during hard braking so I wasn't concerned. A hotter smaller heat source like a torch around the hub and studs didn't work.

davestebs · #35 (**permalink**) 09-09-2009, 07:19 PM

Tried that too! Didn't work. Heavy metal hammer behind a wood block didn't do it either.

davisfamily · #36 (**permalink**) 09-11-2009, 04:25 AM

My dad got the driver's side front drum off last night.
When he was adjusting the shoe adjustment tab on the passenger side, he noticed that it only rotated 1/2 turn. Is that normal?
I asked him how the rubber pieces looked and if there was any leakage evident. I'll let ya'll know!

davisfamily · #37 (**permalink**) 09-13-2009, 06:09 AM

A few questions:
What is the finish supposed to be on the rear parcel shelf? What about the dash? Just regular paint? Body color, interior color, coordinating color?
Here are some more photos of the brakes. The driver's side came right off with some rocking back and forth. The passenger side is stuck at this point, with the shoes visible, but the drum only 1/2" off the backing plate.
I still have the question regarding the shoe adjustment screw. It only turns about 180 degrees in its rotation; is this normal? I would think it should be able to be backed out until it is removed from the backing plate. Is there something I'm missing?

yvesmontreal · #38 (**permalink**) 09-13-2009, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davisfamily

My dad got the driver's side front drum off last night.
When he was adjusting the shoe adjustment tab on the passenger side, he noticed that it only rotated 1/2 turn. Is that normal?
I asked him how the rubber pieces looked and if there was any leakage evident. I'll let ya'll know!

yvesmontreal · #39 (**permalink**) 09-13-2009, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davisfamily

A few questions:
What is the finish supposed to be on the rear parcel shelf? What about the dash? Just regular paint? Body color, interior color, coordinating color?

davisfamily · #40 (**permalink**) 09-13-2009, 08:04 AM

The lower portion of the dashboard show the original color, cloud white. The upper portion is black. That correlates, but is the top of the dash wrinkle finish or smooth paint?
So the parcel shelf is just vinyl-covered and put into place?
My four required daily website checks, besides email: AlfaBB, giuliettas.net, capella.edu, and facebook. I have seen the blue car, and the white Confortevole sold around the same time on Matt's site!

davisfamily · #41 (**permalink**) 09-13-2009, 08:36 AM

Here are the driver's side shoe and brake drum. I don't see any evidence of a rust ring. I will let my dad know about the other adjusting screw.

6alfas · #42 (**permalink**) 09-13-2009, 08:49 PM

[quote=davisfamily;792826]A few questions:
What is the finish supposed to be on the rear parcel shelf? QUOTE]

The parcel shelf should be covered in vinyl. If your interior is two tone, use the darker color to cover it.

PSk · #43 (**permalink**) 09-13-2009, 11:23 PM

Subscribed

.

Pete

AlfistiSA · #44 (**permalink**) 09-14-2009, 03:23 AM

Hi Dan

There are 2 snail cams per front brake on your car, (3 on the 3 leading shoe drums, but that is another discussion).

When crouched down, facing each wheel, with a size 18 spanner attached to the hex head of the snail cam, the upper portion of the spanner is just visible.

- On the LHS when facing the drum, you move the spanner anti-clockwise on both snail cams to loosen or release the shoes.

- On the RHS, when facing the drum, you move the spanner clockwise on both snail cams to release the shoes.

Pull the shoes off the drivers side - both hands & pull up & twist, then do the same with the bottom shoe - now look at the snail cams & you will see why they are called snail cams & exactly how they work & yes, the movement is finite as they stop against a pin.

I see you have taken the one drum off dry - don't be shy squirt lots of lube onto those shoes - you were NOT intending to re-use them now were you.......... back the snail cams off, penetrating spray & 2 largish screwdrivers & work gently & the drum will come off. Of course a large rawhide hammer also comes in handy. patience will be rewarded

If all else fails, pop the end cap off the front hub & remove the split pin & castellated nut & pull the hub off the front - gives you a bit more wiggle room & you can also pull the complete backing plate & drum off the car & take it to the workbench. Once again, patience will be rewarded.

The rear parcel shelf was originally done in Bertone's famous murky black primer, (which they obviously bought cheaply in bulk quantities), then it was covered in the darker of the 2 interior vinyls to match the rear shelf capping & the door panel trim - in your case, the dark blue, but the vinyl was glued in such a way as to clearly show the ribs on the rear panel - the easiest way to do this today is with strips of wood cut to the same size as the ribs & then use bricks to hold the vinyl in place until the glue has set. Of course the sunken ribs just serve to catch dust & crud, but who are we to argue with Bertone's genius.

The dashboards were always body colour and after '55 the dash tops were satin black, this cage way to the removable vinyl dash top circa mid '58. The inside of the instrument pod is satin black to reduce glare.

Keep checking the pictures of 06481 for comparison.

Ciao
Greig

**alphil** · #45 (**permalink**) 09-14-2009, 06:08 AM

Search "front brake adjuster/cam" for photos(with brief captions) of the cams and what I did to repair mine.Also,in photo #20 of the backplate,you'll see a slotted screw w/ jamnut.That adjusts the shoe to be parallel with the drum so you get full contact across the shoe. Your Bosch distributor(much like the VW 36HP) does have two centrifical advance weights and springs under the pointplate.FWIW,I'm using this distributor in my 61' spider normale with a Pertronix 1849 kit in place of the points,and it runs well.It takes some filing to get this kit installed,but in my opinion,it's worth it.Hope this helps,Phil Lawrenceville,Ga.