Confortevole "Restoration"

[6alfas]

Quote:

Originally Posted by davisfamily I got some trims screws and washers to put on the door panels. That will cover up the inside of the door and make the interior look complete. How do the tops of the panels secure? '.

[alfazagato]

PM me for information on the top trims for the door panels. I have a pair stamped D010 and S010.

[davisfamily]

I have all the trim for the car. Just needs to be cleaned! Maybe tomorrow...wait for pictures.

[davisfamily]

What a great suprise I uncovered with my dad last night! He had already loosened the cam cover bolts, but gave me the honor of tapping it loose and taking it off.
Clean like the day it was built! Everything was shiny, no corrosion or rust, it had oil in all the right spots, the chain looks great, what a relief! I had seen pictures of engines covered in rust, dirt, etc. and was thinking mine surely would be one of those, but...it's not!
Seems like they didn't store the body very well, but really cared for the engine. Remember, this engine was put in by Paul Spruell in 1970 or 1971, and is a 1600 from a Giulia TI.
I also began digging into the brake MC and pedal box. It is so tight in the engine compartment! I peeled off the original rubber dust cover on the pedal assembly, still with original mastic type glue traces. Very clean and very much still in one piece.
More to come.

[davisfamily]

I peeked up at the crankshaft nut after reading Andrew's old post. It didn't look like a castellated (castle?) nut. It looks like nothing I've seen. Does anyone know what type should be on the crankshaft from this 1600? And what size? I can take a picture this afternoon.

[alfabits]

Quote:

Originally Posted by davisfamily I peeked up at the crankshaft nut after reading Andrew's old post. It didn't look like a castellated (castle?) nut. It looks like nothing I've seen. Does anyone know what type should be on the crankshaft from this 1600? And what size? I can take a picture this afternoon.

[davisfamily]

"Dan,
I was able to remove the radiator in about 1 hour. It has freeze damage at the bottom. You can tell it bulged out in the middle (crossways) and in one picture I’m pointing to a crack in the seam. Depending on the condition of the rest of the fins and such, we may want to crimp the seam and solder it up. The fins are rusty as if they are steel. I expected the radiator would be all brass.
Dad"
So that is where we are at now. My dad also removed the starter and cleaned it up. We are planning on rotating the engine manually using the flywheel this weekend. We'll get the radiator soldered up locally. Our goal for the next while is to get the engine to turn over or run. Look for more posts Monday or Tuesday!

[Ritmo100S]

With all the crud that's still there, I would suggest you wear a surgical mask so you don't breathe it.

[davisfamily]

I had a little time to work on the car today. We are still planning on getting the engine to run under its own power, so I rotated the engine carefully using the crankshaft bolt. Not too difficult since the radiator wasn't there, and the engine turned freely. My dad had already removed and replaced the old oil in the galleys below the cam lobes, so upper lubrication there was OK. I got #1 on TDC and looked around in the distributor before removing it. I am checking at the closest NAPA for points. My dad and I are going to reuse the plug wires just to see if we can get it to run. He has cleaned up the starter and generator.
We are planning on jumping the solenoid on the starter and hooking a hot wire up to the coil for ignition. Removing it from the battery lying on the ground at the front of the car will turn the car off. We are basically operating the engine like it is on a test rack, with a bucket for the water pump to pull from, a gas can for the carb to get gravity-fed gas from, and the jerry-rigged starting and electrical system.
I have the starter and will clean it up. It's Bosch. So is the coil. So at least there is some continuity between the 1600 engine and the 750 Giulietta OE parts!
More to come, with pictures!
BTW, what was the final word on the huge drum puller for the front brakes? Is it available to rent at Pep Boys, or AutoZone or such?

[Subtle]

I'll tune in to this instructive thread.

[Mikes4C1300]

Quote:

Originally Posted by davisfamily BTW, what was the final word on the huge drum puller for the front brakes? Is it available to rent at Pep Boys, or AutoZone or such?

[alfazagato]

With the shoes retracted to their maximum the drum should be able to to be "wiggled" off. The screws are the key and plenty of WD40 round the interface of the drum and the hub and the wheel studs. When replacing there is no substitute for the factory shoe alignment tool. Someone may well have one locally to you which you can borrow.

[davisfamily]

BRAKES
We were able to get all four drums to turn, but neither of the front drums will come off. My Datsun had a screw hole to screw a bolt down to the hub and literally push the drum off. Anyone ever heard of this or done it? We are moving kind of quickly to the brakes next! I remember seeing some discussion (maybe on ALFASOON's site) of a 12" drum puller?
ENGINE
So I am getting the points and condenser for the distributor. My dad will reinstall the starter. WE WILL MAKE IT RUN! Anyone have any other tips about what to look for? Specific areas of leaks, etc..?
FLUIDS
Is it possible to just fill up the brake fluid can and see if the brakes will work? Or is it best to pull everything and rebuild it first? There is about 1/2" of fluid still in the can, I'm thinking we'll bleed as much as possible and do a fluid flush.
Similar thoughts for the clutch, just lubricate the shift linkage joints and see what I can get. Before I get the shop manual from GTD ;-) where do I check and fill the tranny and differential (remember the car is 45+ miles from me as I sit here in my living room)? What about draining the fluid in there, just a normal drain plug? No special tools needed like my oil drain plug? What brand of fluid do I need to use in a 1962 Giulia TI 1600 transmission?
WIRING
Uhh, nevermind.

[yvesmontreal]

I went through much of that with a 1961 Normale which had been in storage since 1973. After oiling up the engine, we rigged up a temporary gravity feed to the carb and it started up nearly as soon as I hit the key!

To pull off stuck drums, I threaded a tap into some of the available holes. Beware, I destroyed a perfectly good set of linings while doing so. But it saved a perfectly good set of drums...

Your brake hydraulics are probably all gunked up with rotten seals, dried out fluid and rust. It will need to be taken apart.

Alfa gearboxes were built with steel synchro rings until ca. 1965., at which point moly coated rings took over. If your gearbox still has steel rings, it needs SAE 90 non-EP oil - specifically NOT API GL-5 differential oil. SAE 50 straight engine oil will do.

[davestebs]

I had a hard time removing the brake drums on my spider after it sat for 25 years. The drums rotated, but wouldn't wiggle off. Tapping the drain holes and using a slide hammer didn't work. What worked in the end was heating the drums with a torpedo heater - then they pulled right off.