
06-04-2009, 08:20 PM
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Richard Jemison
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Pensacola, Fl. U.S.A.
Posts: 1,443
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Cams For "Normales"
Quote:
Do they fit and
how is the engine works wiht them and the orginale carburatore (Solex APAIG).
Or should I go for orginal camshafts.
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I answered Magnus`s PM, but for the group, the cams of course will fit, but the carb will run poorly and low speed will be balky as the carb needs more vaccum than these latter cams were designed to create.
Same old issue since they started getting fitted with Veloce & other cams
There are a pair of (non matching ) intake and exhaust cams that really give the two barrel carb cars much better low end torque and better upper end HP than before!
But this is no place for that
__________________
Richard Jemison
RJR Racing
http://scuderiagiallo.com
"you don`t have to listen, but you won`t win the argument"!
"Nothing that I might suggest will be legal in California"
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06-05-2009, 12:21 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 3,442
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car looks great.
looking forward to seeing the finished project.
__________________
1992 alfa romeo spider veloce, 19k miles
2000 saab 9-3 coupe, 25k miles
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06-08-2009, 01:31 AM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Port Elizabeth, South Africa
Posts: 693
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Hi Magnus
I currently have 1750 Euro cams in my '60 Spider, but to be 100% honest, I was disappointed with the change from the 10103 cams, I had expected more.
I have a set of C&B cams for my Sprint Veloce, but am intending to rather get a decent set of cams from Richard Jemison (AlfaR7 here on the BB) which are more suited to a 1300 engine. The C&B's can go into a 1750 at a later stage.
Cam design has changed greatly over the past 50 years & Richard is the leader in cams right now, so I'd suggest you contacted him - any slight difference in price will be forgotten when you are driving your car & have the power you want, where you want it & when you want it.
No connection with Richard, just benefitted from his wisdom
Ciao
Greig
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06-08-2009, 11:04 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: At the other end of the state
Posts: 2,718
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Magnus, what process did you use to clean the body before priming? Is your primer a catalyized primer? (Sikkens?) Beautiful work. 
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06-09-2009, 01:48 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velocedoc
Magnus, what process did you use to clean the body before priming? Is your primer a catalyized primer? (Sikkens?) Beautiful work. 
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Thanks!
When I started to grind off the paint I found out that it was restored, (what we call bad amerikan restauratione ) A lot of US cars is inported to Sweden and som has a LOT of Bondo and so did mine.
The whole car was sprayd with a thick layer of bondo and the sills and the drivers door was repaired with bondo too.
I used a hot air gun and a paint scraper to remove all bondo. Inside the car and under is media blasted.
I fixed all welding joints with "tin".The primer is a 2K "mordant" CA-primer from Hagmans. My experience of the product has been very good. Then It is some (very little) bondo and finally the gray filler. The car painter did the final job.


Magnus Holm
Sweden
Giulietta Spider 1960
Alfetta 4d. 1977
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06-09-2009, 02:52 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Denmark
Posts: 121
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Heja Magnus
I think black will be the best color on your seats. I know they will burn your back on sunny days but I am afraid gray will tear bad through the years. I have seen a couple of SAABs with gray leather and after some years it turns quite ugly because it gets very glossy and scared. I am happy with black in mine (SAAB not giulietta) Here are pics of black and a dark gray with red piping. Both look good but the black is more classic IMO.
Lars
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06-10-2009, 03:01 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfamox
Heja Magnus
I think black will be the best color on your seats. I know they will burn your back on sunny days but I am afraid gray will tear bad through the years. I have seen a couple of SAABs with gray leather and after some years it turns quite ugly because it gets very glossy and scared. I am happy with black in mine (SAAB not giulietta) Here are pics of black and a dark gray with red piping. Both look good but the black is more classic IMO.
Lars
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Hej Lars
You have a good thought about bad looking old light lether. Iīll make my desision after a month or two of thinking. The result will come here during the autumn.
Now to someting completly different. Do anyone knows what colour the original shocks have. I donīt think the red colour the Konis has fit my original restauratione. Black or dark grey maybe?
Magnus Holm
Sweden
Giulietta Spider 1960
Alfetta 4d. 1977
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06-10-2009, 06:13 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Northfield, Illinois
Posts: 2,726
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Factory originals were either a chassis black, or greenish grey.
__________________
 Gordon Raymond
Illinois SNO Alfa Chapter Director
Illinois SNO Ferrari Chapter Director
and sometimes, CONFUSED AND INCORRECT, but Larry helps me out.
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06-17-2009, 06:34 AM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 14
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More questiones....
Hi again.
Can anyone tell me the differens betwen Sprint-Spider connecting rods:101.11.02.020.00 and Berlina: 101.00.02.020.00. Mine are missing and I found a set to Berlina fore sale here in Sweden.
And PLEASE, help me with the messuring of the top frame that I need. 
Listed as "Top frame dimention questions"
Magnus Holm
Sweden
Giulietta Spider 1960
Alfetta 4d. 1977
Last edited by bohuslan4ever; 06-17-2009 at 09:01 PM.
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06-17-2009, 12:49 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Northfield, Illinois
Posts: 2,726
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On the factory 1600 engines there were only two versions of connecting rods, Normale and Veloce. Both sets are balanced and drop forged. The Veloce rods were then shot peened for surface uniformity and toughness. Either are best bought as a set of four to avoid additional labor involved in making up a matching set.
__________________
 Gordon Raymond
Illinois SNO Alfa Chapter Director
Illinois SNO Ferrari Chapter Director
and sometimes, CONFUSED AND INCORRECT, but Larry helps me out.
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07-16-2009, 02:45 AM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 14
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Hi again.
First.
I found a small goldmind. From one dealer I bougt a cylinder head with good original camchafts, one crankshaft, 4 rods, one aluminium oilpan and a 4 and 5 speed gearbox. Everything in good conditione and the price was not to high. The head and the crank needs regrinding and I have to check the conditione of the gearboxes. But I finally got a complete engine to my car.
Now to next problem. When I dismantled the rear axel i found that the crown wheel only had two screws that hold it on place. the rest was broken. New layers is easy to find but not the screaws. M9X1.0, 25mm long (or 22,5mm as original) is not a normale dimentione. Do anyone know where to find these screws or have a solutine of my problem. Drill it up and thread on to M10 or 3/8 UNF seames difficult. The hardness of the material in the crown wheel is not like normal steel. Or am I wrong?
Magnus Holm
Sweden
Giulietta Spider 1960
Alfetta 4d. 1977
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07-16-2009, 12:53 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Northfield, Illinois
Posts: 2,726
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This is not an unusual problem. Contact Christian Ondrak at OK parts in Germany for used bolts. If he has none, try Tony Stevens at Alfastop In GB. If that too fails there are many US sources that will have some from dismantled differentials.
On reassembly, Loctite blue is useful to lock these in place, some use metal plate locktabs. The last one I assembled for racing, I drilled the corner of each hex on the bolts and safety wired it together. The bolts are quite hard. The safety wire drilling had to be done carefully and with several drill bits.
As these bolts are hardened, when the work loose, and shock is applied to the drivetrain, they can break off, from the repeated hammering.
__________________
 Gordon Raymond
Illinois SNO Alfa Chapter Director
Illinois SNO Ferrari Chapter Director
and sometimes, CONFUSED AND INCORRECT, but Larry helps me out.
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07-23-2009, 07:03 AM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 14
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My soluton of the crown wheel problem.
I found out that allmost all 4 cyl. Mercedes engines from early 80:s an forward had con. rod bolts in dimensione M9X1.0. (W201 and W124 as an example.)
I bought 8 and they fit perfect. Under the head is a bit unthreaded part that fit in the mounting hole perfect without any gap at all. The washer has to be 4mm thick and whit a 3/8" hole they will be perfect.
They are to long and I have to cut them of. 32mm was OK.
I used Loctite 2701 to lock the screw.
And finnaly they are cheap. I payed under $3 per screw at the local car part store. I think that you will not find used original screws at that price.
Magnus Holm
Sweden
Giulietta Spider 1960
Alfetta 4d. 1977

Last edited by bohuslan4ever; 07-23-2009 at 07:28 AM.
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07-23-2009, 07:32 AM
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Posts: 65
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Nice work Magnus,
As new again 
__________________
Best Wishes,
Joakim
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11-09-2009, 12:59 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 14
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Summer is over......
Hi again.
Itīs time to start reassembling the car if I will have it ready to drive next spring.
I got my new harness from lionel at Classicwiring. The cloth harness I chose has an first class look. The best I think you can get for money.
The first questione: My brakedrums is painted black with som old black pain. Is that how they looked from new or was they unpainted?
Does anyone got the right paint code for the gold metallic rings in the gauges. the paint is faded and I need to repaint them to make them look as new again.
And my last wish. Is there anyone out there with a 1960 och 1961 Giulietta spider who can help me with the soft top frame messurment I need. Itīs partly 101 serie and partly 750 serie parts (the rusty ones I think). I would like the mesure as the arrows show. Without this I would not be able to fix my frame  .
Magnus Holm
Sweden
Giulietta Spider 1960
Alfetta 4d. 1977
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