
04-06-2006, 10:33 AM
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The painter is a 10 minutes drive from my workshop !
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04-23-2006, 07:33 AM
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Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
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Hello Berlinista,
I noticed you are running brembo calipers at the front. Are those 75/gtv6 calipers?
Do you also have ventilated disks? If you do can yu tell me what are they?
I am trying to figure out or find disk to put into 105 with 75 calipers!
thanks
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Branko Gjuro Turk
1968 (105.59), 1968 (105.31), 1970 (105.31), 1970 (105.31), 1970 (105.45)
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04-23-2006, 07:46 AM
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really simple:
Use TS calipers, take out the alu piece in between, this is for the ventilated discs. Now install a standard, or Tar-ox or whatever 2.0 disc,
and there you are. I run grooved Tarox.
Now, it never ain't that simple.
when you try to fit the caliper to the disc, it will not fit.....
on the back of the caliper is some alu you will have to file or grind away. You will see easily enough.
Then, also you will have to fabricate the solid brake line on the back of the upright, or use one from a 2.0 model.
Also, this caliper fits on 1300/1600 uprights only, not on 2000 uprights!
So its a nicer and better conversion than installing everything from a 2000. It also very decreases unsprung weight.
There....
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04-25-2006, 03:42 AM
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Thanks for the comprehensive info.
I do have small uprights from a 1300 Junior. I was hoping that you were running ventilated disks! Apprently there is a disk out there that matches a profile required for 105 hubs and is right diameter and and is ventilated.
Using 2 liter disk is good and i will probably go that route if i cannot figure out the ventilated disk!
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Branko Gjuro Turk
1968 (105.59), 1968 (105.31), 1970 (105.31), 1970 (105.31), 1970 (105.45)
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04-25-2006, 03:05 PM
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ventilated discs.
Well, of course everyone is free to have his opinion, but as being experienced in Alfa racing for about 10 years now, I think ventilated discs are Bull$h!t.
And especially on a street car. you will never get the pads or discs up to temperature. We tired it on several cars over the years, but never got much profit out of it. that's with 200 HP serious racing alfa 105's.
anyway, if you do want that, take a montreal disc.
Or several Audi discs. you will have to machine a spacer behind the disc, to get the right offset.
But hey, try the normal disc first, with a GOOD pad, like somthing from SBS or Hawk, they do street/racing compounds. Forget ferodo, that's racing only, for example DS 2500 or DS 3000. Do NOT buy sh*t like Green Stuff. Invest in a GOOD pad, Goodridge brake lines, fresh master cilinder etc. there you go. Or Stop.......
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04-25-2006, 03:48 PM
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Berlinista is right abouth the ventilated discs, you don't need them but they are nice to have
I have the small uprights, 75 TS calipers and ventilated discs SBS carbon brakepads, a set I bought at Giacomini motorsports in Holland
The brake disc are stock Brembo, they drilled new holes and are useing a aluminium spacer for the ofset
I allso use Goodridge brakelines and a 22mm ATE master brakecylinder
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04-25-2006, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Giulia Bianca
Berlinista is right abouth the ventilated discs, you don't need them but they are nice to have
I have the small uprights, 75 TS calipers and ventilated discs SBS carbon brakepads, a set I bought at Giacomini motorsports in Holland
The brake disc are stock Brembo, they drilled new holes and are useing a aluminium spacer for the ofset
I allso use Goodridge brakelines and a 22mm ATE master brakecylinder
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Curious, do you run with or without booster with that set-up?
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04-25-2006, 09:59 PM
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With booster, I'ts going to be my daily driver, suitable for trackday use now and then, 72 1300 Super, 2000 engine, gearbox and LSD axle is going to be installed next winter
http://www.classicalfa.nl/remmen.htm
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04-26-2006, 03:31 PM
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Have a looked at the brake kit from Alfaholics...pretty damn nice imo:

vented disk & light 4 pot caliper...
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04-26-2006, 03:48 PM
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That's awesome Hans, but that will be very expensive too 
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04-26-2006, 06:17 PM
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Yeah, they are awesome, but the billet thing is so 90's. If your going for big brakes on your vintage racer, why not use the 4 piston Merc calipers or better yet, the AP 4 piston Monoblock calipers that were used on many types of race cars including F1.
Like the drilled spring plates and lower arms 
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I was wrong once before,
Paul Van Der Linden
Currently: 70 Giulia Ti 2.0L
Formerly:
(1) 58 spider
(2) 67 duetto's
(4) 67 super's
(2) 67 gtv's
(1) 70 gtam
(2) 74 gtv's
(1) 78 spider
(1) 82 spider
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04-27-2006, 12:21 AM
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4 pot calipers are too much on a 105 even with an increased booster.
You cant really dial in your brakes when nearing a turn. Its all 100% or nothing. I personally do not like that. In my experience, the TS brake mod is by far best. That it is also far cheaper is only an added bonus.
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04-27-2006, 02:09 AM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Berlinista
4 pot calipers are too much on a 105 even with an increased booster.
You cant really dial in your brakes when nearing a turn. Its all 100% or nothing. I personally do not like that. In my experience, the TS brake mod is by far best. That it is also far cheaper is only an added bonus.
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Changing calipers should only be done if one ensures the system is 'balanced', thus a massive change to 4 pot calipers would require master cylinder changes, etc.
My last club racing car was only 512 kg's and had enormous (well the biggest I could fit in a 13" wheel) 4 pot calipers and vented discs on the front. As they were competition calipers they were light anyway.
Thus I simply played with the master cylinder size (it had a probably balance bar at the pedal and thus separate circuit front and rear) and pad compound until I got it just right.
The advantage of running calipers and discs (+ cooling) that are too much for the car are that you can improve your pedal feel, by running softer pads and this gives a massive improvement in the cars drivability at the limit.
Thus the check list is:- Calipers must be lighter than stock ... otherwise wasting your time.
- Discs must be lighter and have cooling advantages ... otherwise wasting your time.
- Financial considerations ...
- Master cylinder sizing must match calipers ... if rules allow you really have to install a proper balance bar and separate front and rear circuits. Crazy not to.
- Must buy temperature reading paint so you can see what actual temperature your discs get to and thus choose pads and make cooling descisions based on facts and not 'he over their said they are good'.
- Must use hose or otherwise sealed cooling ducts as any opening means that the air can escape ... you cannot just deflect air at the brakes.
Pete
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'71 1750 Series 2 GTV: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?p=208078
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04-27-2006, 04:14 AM
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by vintage prep
Like the drilled spring plates and lower arms 
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I like these...again a new Alfaholics product:
http://www.alfaholics.com/racing_and...nt_302_117.php
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04-27-2006, 07:46 AM
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Location: Athens Greece
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I'd go for the Alfaholics setup in an instant if the disks were also drilled (LOOKS), i think an 105 with a seriously modified engine and 170+ hp can benefit from such a setup , the mov-it brakes setup is extremely cool and also expensive...
The stock brakes are really nice for a 150 hp engine in my opinion
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