Pulling transmission - Page 11 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #151 of 171 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 04:33 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Camp Hill, PA
Posts: 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tifosi View Post
..... or you coulda just unbolted the bell housing from the trans body and whacked the seal out with a drift and reinstalled on the bench.....

I did unbolt the bell housing as per my 1990 Shop Manual because aft of the housing is the only way out for the seal. Does your suggestion involve removing the flange that restricts the travel of the throwout bearing?

The seal in my bell housing was driven down to the seat and the inside diameter of the seal appeared to be flush with that of the seat.

Joe
Attached Images
  

1990 AR Spider Graduate
jetta06hbg is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #152 of 171 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 04:41 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Camp Hill, PA
Posts: 112
I noticed this post in a search.

Front Transmission Seal

That may be helpful in putting back the fork and TOB.




And this thread has some good pointers on how to protect the seal when reinstalling the bell housing on the gearbox.

Front Transmission Seal

Joe

1990 AR Spider Graduate
jetta06hbg is offline  
post #153 of 171 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 07:13 AM
1966-2013
Platinum Subscriber
 
Tifosi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Northern NY, USA
Posts: 13,741
Yes, that stopper flange has to be out of the way which will allow good access to the seal.

Oh, BTW, during reassembly when the manual mentions putting a small dab of X type grease on the fork pivot ball, they aren't kidding. Without it the shape of the ball will get deformed pretty quickly (in relative terms of course) and cause the fork to twist or otherwise move in an odd manner when the clutch pedal is depressed.

Eventually it may even go egg shaped which will start to give the TOB a workout along with the quillshaft that it slides upon. (get some grooves going in that baby and you'll know it for sure)
Tifosi is offline  
post #154 of 171 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 07:41 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Camp Hill, PA
Posts: 112
Grease?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tifosi View Post
Yes, that stopper flange has to be out of the way which will allow good access to the seal.

Oh, BTW, during reassembly when the manual mentions putting a small dab of X type grease on the fork pivot ball, they aren't kidding. Without it the shape of the ball will get deformed pretty quickly (in relative terms of course) and cause the fork to twist or otherwise move in an odd manner when the clutch pedal is depressed.

Eventually it may even go egg shaped which will start to give the TOB a workout along with the quillshaft that it slides upon. (get some grooves going in that baby and you'll know it for sure)

I will have to take a close look at the pivot. I know the clutch fork has taken out some meat on that quillshaft - not happy about it but it is what I have.

Anywho, I have done some searches on grease type and they have been inconclusive. And I wonder whether the Valvoline DuraBlend EP Grease is what I can use on the pivot ball and other areas calling for grease such as the pilot bushing? Or is something else recommended?

Thanks,
Joe

1990 AR Spider Graduate
jetta06hbg is offline  
post #155 of 171 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 08:13 AM
1966-2013
Platinum Subscriber
 
Tifosi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Northern NY, USA
Posts: 13,741
I'll be ****ed if I can find what is specifically called for right now, but suffice to say it needs to be something that won't go all loose/drippy when it gets hot.

One could even use a very small dab of high temp bearing grease that's specifically for disc brake setups. (you know, the stuff you'd use on the front wheel bearings)

Super high temp lithium would also be serviceable.

**

Query:

Do you have the rubber 'pocket' as shown in the thread you linked above in this specific post? (p# 10541.12413.00)

That is there to help hold the lube onto the ball-n-fork contact surface and also doubles as a sort of dust boot to help keep grubbins from getting in and increasing wear.

**

Regarding the pilot, if you've not installed it yet you might want to impregnate it with oil before doing so. (it's not even really required, but more a 'peace of mind' thing, if you worry about such things )

If you grease it, go VERY sparingly as (1) any that gets squished out can sling pretty easily and (2) get too much in there and it can actually pop itself out as the pilot shaft of the trans is pushed in.
Tifosi is offline  
post #156 of 171 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 10:35 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Camp Hill, PA
Posts: 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tifosi View Post
I'll be ****ed if I can find what is specifically called for right now, but suffice to say it needs to be something that won't go all loose/drippy when it gets hot.

One could even use a very small dab of high temp bearing grease that's specifically for disc brake setups. (you know, the stuff you'd use on the front wheel bearings)

Super high temp lithium would also be serviceable.

**

Query:

Do you have the rubber 'pocket' as shown in the thread you linked above in this specific post? (p# 10541.12413.00)

That is there to help hold the lube onto the ball-n-fork contact surface and also doubles as a sort of dust boot to help keep grubbins from getting in and increasing wear.

**

Regarding the pilot, if you've not installed it yet you might want to impregnate it with oil before doing so. (it's not even really required, but more a 'peace of mind' thing, if you worry about such things )

If you grease it, go VERY sparingly as (1) any that gets squished out can sling pretty easily and (2) get too much in there and it can actually pop itself out as the pilot shaft of the trans is pushed in.

Yes, I do have that part. Thanks for the tip about soaking the pilot bushing in oil.

I know what's in the shop manual as to grease but that's like 18 years ago. I am sorry as I did not mean to press for an immediate answer. I really have spent time with the search function.

I really appreciate your help and the help of this board as it has encouraged me to try this repair. I can't wait to turn the key and shift but that is going to be at least a week from now at my pace.

Thanks,
Joe

1990 AR Spider Graduate
jetta06hbg is offline  
post #157 of 171 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 01:35 PM
1966-2013
Platinum Subscriber
 
Tifosi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Northern NY, USA
Posts: 13,741
Quote:
Originally Posted by jetta06hbg View Post
Yes, I do have that part. Thanks for the tip about soaking the pilot bushing in oil
Stick it in your oven at around 200F til it warms completely through.

As it's a scintered bushing, the heat will open up bigger gaps between the particles it's made of and will expand more than what a solid turned bush would, so when you pull it out of the oven and drop it in oil for a good soak, oil literally gets trapped in the bushing as it cools and contracts. (It actually impregnates the material)
Tifosi is offline  
post #158 of 171 (permalink) Old 09-12-2008, 06:36 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Camp Hill, PA
Posts: 112
strike one! reverse light switch

I am reattaching the bell housing to the gear case and all went fine with the torque wrench and the nuts to finalize the reunion. All was going fine until the unassuming reverse light switch was "installed." The manual calls for 29.5 to 35.4 ft-lbs. for the OEM part. The switch I got from IAP made by Facet twisted in half. Luckily, I was able to remove the remains of the screw.

The new switch appeared to be made of a softer metal, perhaps necessitating less torque.

1990 AR Spider Graduate
jetta06hbg is offline  
post #159 of 171 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 11:59 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 3
if any one is after a OEM clutch kit they are getting hard to find.
contact below for the best pricing

WITHOUT FLY WHEEL
Alfa Romeo V6 75 90 GTV6 SACHS OEM Clutch Kit (eBay item 390293949123 end time 02-Apr-11 03:59:41 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats

WITH FLY WHEEL
Alfa Romeo V6 75 90 GTV6 SACHS OEM Clutch Kit FLYWHEEL (eBay item 390293951535 end time 02-Apr-11 04:10:38 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats

international shipping is available


http://www.italianautoclub.com
http://www.alfauto.com.au
GTV6GPTT is offline  
post #160 of 171 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 09:38 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Austin Texas via So. Calif.
Posts: 252
Here's a thought

When you get ready to reinstall the GB get the German flex disk kit from Paul Spruell. It's rated at almost 400 HP and it's the last donut you will ever replace. BTW: it's on sale.

Do not use the tail housing mount unless it's a race car.

BTW: the Alfa Factory manual would be real handy for this job.

Happy Motoring

b
Attached Images
 
awesomeBLT is offline  
post #161 of 171 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 01:31 PM
Registered User
 
kirkovision's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 94
HI there Gabriel
I'm about to install a new trans mount and purchased the yellow bushing kit too. After 3 years, have you any thoughts about the vibration or suggestions?
Thanks, Kirk
2.0L rebuild in Seattle

Zorba 86 Veloce
kirkovision is offline  
post #162 of 171 (permalink) Old 04-13-2011, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
Platinum Subscriber
 
gadwhite's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Rancho Palos Verdes, California
Posts: 622
Vibration

Quote:
Originally Posted by kirkovision View Post
HI there Gabriel
I'm about to install a new trans mount and purchased the yellow bushing kit too. After 3 years, have you any thoughts about the vibration or suggestions?
Thanks, Kirk
2.0L rebuild in Seattle
Kirk
I left mine in, and to be honest, I think its probably louder than before, but not any noticeable vibration. I drive with the top down 99% of the time (California), so it dosnt bother me. With my top up I do find the car a little noisy. To install I did use the freeze trick on the Trans mount and I think it helped. Another thing I did was finally get around to my motor mounts and this seems to make the car smoother. Hope that helps

1985 Spider Veloce (Isabella),
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid Touring
gadwhite is offline  
post #163 of 171 (permalink) Old 11-05-2011, 03:09 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Papa Sr View Post
You guys, I spent $385 for a trans shop to redo my gears/dogs/synchro sleeves. I supplied the other trans I bought from junk yard in Wisconsin a while back, which was in even better shape than my car!! They yanked the good stuff from the other, and picked the best sleeves, buffed the burs off the dog teeth, etc. Nice work. Car shifts like butter now. The addl trans costed only $200 plus UPS. I spent $100 on 3 synchro rings, and a few more dollars for seals, etc.
Hey Joe Pappa,
Can you tell me where you got your transmissions done? I bought an '86 Quadrifoglio last week and need to do a clutch. If I can get the syncros done reasonably enough, I'll do that while the trans is out.

Thank you!
djseth is offline  
post #164 of 171 (permalink) Old 11-05-2011, 04:38 PM
Senior Member
Platinum Subscriber
 
alfaparticle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 7,469
If you are not following this thread http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/tran...ml#post1069156 then maybe you should.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
85 GTV6 3L

A government big enough to give you everything you want is a government strong enough to take everything you have.
alfaparticle is offline  
post #165 of 171 (permalink) Old 12-29-2011, 01:53 PM
Registered User
 
flamebero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 447
Send a message via AIM to flamebero Send a message via MSN to flamebero
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tifosi View Post
..... or you coulda just unbolted the bell housing from the trans body and whacked the seal out with a drift and reinstalled on the bench.....

Tifosi, could you elaborate on this on this procedure? It seems to me there's a bushing in the way, that I don;t know how to remove. Tried using a seal remover, it just tore everything up.
Attached Images
  

78 Spider
flamebero is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome