Pulling transmission - Page 11 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

  #151 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2008, 04:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Tifosi View Post
..... or you coulda just unbolted the bell housing from the trans body and whacked the seal out with a drift and reinstalled on the bench.....

I did unbolt the bell housing as per my 1990 Shop Manual because aft of the housing is the only way out for the seal. Does your suggestion involve removing the flange that restricts the travel of the throwout bearing?

The seal in my bell housing was driven down to the seat and the inside diameter of the seal appeared to be flush with that of the seat.

Joe
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  #152 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2008, 04:41 AM
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I noticed this post in a search.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spid...tml#post519578

That may be helpful in putting back the fork and TOB.




And this thread has some good pointers on how to protect the seal when reinstalling the bell housing on the gearbox.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spid...sion-seal.html

Joe
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  #153 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2008, 07:13 AM
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Yes, that stopper flange has to be out of the way which will allow good access to the seal.

Oh, BTW, during reassembly when the manual mentions putting a small dab of X type grease on the fork pivot ball, they aren't kidding. Without it the shape of the ball will get deformed pretty quickly (in relative terms of course) and cause the fork to twist or otherwise move in an odd manner when the clutch pedal is depressed.

Eventually it may even go egg shaped which will start to give the TOB a workout along with the quillshaft that it slides upon. (get some grooves going in that baby and you'll know it for sure)
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  #154 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2008, 07:41 AM
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Grease?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tifosi View Post
Yes, that stopper flange has to be out of the way which will allow good access to the seal.

Oh, BTW, during reassembly when the manual mentions putting a small dab of X type grease on the fork pivot ball, they aren't kidding. Without it the shape of the ball will get deformed pretty quickly (in relative terms of course) and cause the fork to twist or otherwise move in an odd manner when the clutch pedal is depressed.

Eventually it may even go egg shaped which will start to give the TOB a workout along with the quillshaft that it slides upon. (get some grooves going in that baby and you'll know it for sure)

I will have to take a close look at the pivot. I know the clutch fork has taken out some meat on that quillshaft - not happy about it but it is what I have.

Anywho, I have done some searches on grease type and they have been inconclusive. And I wonder whether the Valvoline DuraBlend EP Grease is what I can use on the pivot ball and other areas calling for grease such as the pilot bushing? Or is something else recommended?

Thanks,
Joe
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  #155 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2008, 08:13 AM
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I'll be ****ed if I can find what is specifically called for right now, but suffice to say it needs to be something that won't go all loose/drippy when it gets hot.

One could even use a very small dab of high temp bearing grease that's specifically for disc brake setups. (you know, the stuff you'd use on the front wheel bearings)

Super high temp lithium would also be serviceable.

**

Query:

Do you have the rubber 'pocket' as shown in the thread you linked above in this specific post? (p# 10541.12413.00)

That is there to help hold the lube onto the ball-n-fork contact surface and also doubles as a sort of dust boot to help keep grubbins from getting in and increasing wear.

**

Regarding the pilot, if you've not installed it yet you might want to impregnate it with oil before doing so. (it's not even really required, but more a 'peace of mind' thing, if you worry about such things )

If you grease it, go VERY sparingly as (1) any that gets squished out can sling pretty easily and (2) get too much in there and it can actually pop itself out as the pilot shaft of the trans is pushed in.
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  #156 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2008, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tifosi View Post
I'll be ****ed if I can find what is specifically called for right now, but suffice to say it needs to be something that won't go all loose/drippy when it gets hot.

One could even use a very small dab of high temp bearing grease that's specifically for disc brake setups. (you know, the stuff you'd use on the front wheel bearings)

Super high temp lithium would also be serviceable.

**

Query:

Do you have the rubber 'pocket' as shown in the thread you linked above in this specific post? (p# 10541.12413.00)

That is there to help hold the lube onto the ball-n-fork contact surface and also doubles as a sort of dust boot to help keep grubbins from getting in and increasing wear.

**

Regarding the pilot, if you've not installed it yet you might want to impregnate it with oil before doing so. (it's not even really required, but more a 'peace of mind' thing, if you worry about such things )

If you grease it, go VERY sparingly as (1) any that gets squished out can sling pretty easily and (2) get too much in there and it can actually pop itself out as the pilot shaft of the trans is pushed in.

Yes, I do have that part. Thanks for the tip about soaking the pilot bushing in oil.

I know what's in the shop manual as to grease but that's like 18 years ago. I am sorry as I did not mean to press for an immediate answer. I really have spent time with the search function.

I really appreciate your help and the help of this board as it has encouraged me to try this repair. I can't wait to turn the key and shift but that is going to be at least a week from now at my pace.

Thanks,
Joe
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  #157 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2008, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetta06hbg View Post
Yes, I do have that part. Thanks for the tip about soaking the pilot bushing in oil
Stick it in your oven at around 200F til it warms completely through.

As it's a scintered bushing, the heat will open up bigger gaps between the particles it's made of and will expand more than what a solid turned bush would, so when you pull it out of the oven and drop it in oil for a good soak, oil literally gets trapped in the bushing as it cools and contracts. (It actually impregnates the material)
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  #158 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2008, 06:36 PM
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strike one! reverse light switch

I am reattaching the bell housing to the gear case and all went fine with the torque wrench and the nuts to finalize the reunion. All was going fine until the unassuming reverse light switch was "installed." The manual calls for 29.5 to 35.4 ft-lbs. for the OEM part. The switch I got from IAP made by Facet twisted in half. Luckily, I was able to remove the remains of the screw.

The new switch appeared to be made of a softer metal, perhaps necessitating less torque.
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  #159 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2011, 11:59 PM
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if any one is after a OEM clutch kit they are getting hard to find.
contact below for the best pricing

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Alfa Romeo V6 75 90 GTV6 SACHS OEM Clutch Kit (eBay item 390293949123 end time 02-Apr-11 03:59:41 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats

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Alfa Romeo V6 75 90 GTV6 SACHS OEM Clutch Kit FLYWHEEL (eBay item 390293951535 end time 02-Apr-11 04:10:38 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats

international shipping is available

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  #160 (permalink)  
Old 03-21-2011, 09:38 PM
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Here's a thought

When you get ready to reinstall the GB get the German flex disk kit from Paul Spruell. It's rated at almost 400 HP and it's the last donut you will ever replace. BTW: it's on sale.

Do not use the tail housing mount unless it's a race car.

BTW: the Alfa Factory manual would be real handy for this job.

Happy Motoring

b
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  #161 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2011, 01:31 PM
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HI there Gabriel
I'm about to install a new trans mount and purchased the yellow bushing kit too. After 3 years, have you any thoughts about the vibration or suggestions?
Thanks, Kirk
2.0L rebuild in Seattle
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  #162 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2011, 04:26 PM
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Vibration

Quote:
Originally Posted by kirkovision View Post
HI there Gabriel
I'm about to install a new trans mount and purchased the yellow bushing kit too. After 3 years, have you any thoughts about the vibration or suggestions?
Thanks, Kirk
2.0L rebuild in Seattle
Kirk
I left mine in, and to be honest, I think its probably louder than before, but not any noticeable vibration. I drive with the top down 99% of the time (California), so it dosnt bother me. With my top up I do find the car a little noisy. To install I did use the freeze trick on the Trans mount and I think it helped. Another thing I did was finally get around to my motor mounts and this seems to make the car smoother. Hope that helps
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  #163 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2011, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Papa Sr View Post
You guys, I spent $385 for a trans shop to redo my gears/dogs/synchro sleeves. I supplied the other trans I bought from junk yard in Wisconsin a while back, which was in even better shape than my car!! They yanked the good stuff from the other, and picked the best sleeves, buffed the burs off the dog teeth, etc. Nice work. Car shifts like butter now. The addl trans costed only $200 plus UPS. I spent $100 on 3 synchro rings, and a few more dollars for seals, etc.
Hey Joe Pappa,
Can you tell me where you got your transmissions done? I bought an '86 Quadrifoglio last week and need to do a clutch. If I can get the syncros done reasonably enough, I'll do that while the trans is out.

Thank you!
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  #164 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2011, 04:38 PM
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If you are not following this thread http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/tran...ml#post1069156 then maybe you should.
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  #165 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2011, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tifosi View Post
..... or you coulda just unbolted the bell housing from the trans body and whacked the seal out with a drift and reinstalled on the bench.....

Tifosi, could you elaborate on this on this procedure? It seems to me there's a bushing in the way, that I don;t know how to remove. Tried using a seal remover, it just tore everything up.
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