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		<title><![CDATA[Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board &amp; Forums - Engine Rebuilding]]></title>
		<link>http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums</link>
		<description>This forum is for posting about Alfa Romeo engine rebuilding, modifications, and specs.</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:53:37 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board &amp; Forums - Engine Rebuilding]]></title>
			<link>http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums</link>
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		<item>
			<title>Digital Valve Shim Measuring Tool</title>
			<link>http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158747-digital-valve-shim-measuring-tool.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 01:25:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I was at Harbor Freight killing some time today and noticed a "Digital Thickness Gauge" item number 66319 for a whopping $9.99.  It's just the perfect tool for measuring my collection of Alfa valve shims.  You push down on a lever and drop the shim between the spring loaded jaws, and the readout displays the thickness of the shim.  The probe portion of the jaw is about i/4 inch in diameter, so it has no problem with the shoulder of the shim.  I tried measuring several sections of my feeler gauges and it was dead on.  Also the spring loading gives consistent readings, it's much easier than a conventional micrometer, and you can't beat the price.

Dick Stachowiak
71 GTV
71 Spider]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I was at Harbor Freight killing some time today and noticed a &quot;Digital Thickness Gauge&quot; item number 66319 for a whopping $9.99.  It's just the perfect tool for measuring my collection of Alfa valve shims.  You push down on a lever and drop the shim between the spring loaded jaws, and the readout displays the thickness of the shim.  The probe portion of the jaw is about i/4 inch in diameter, so it has no problem with the shoulder of the shim.  I tried measuring several sections of my feeler gauges and it was dead on.  Also the spring loading gives consistent readings, it's much easier than a conventional micrometer, and you can't beat the price.<br />
<br />
Dick Stachowiak<br />
71 GTV<br />
71 Spider</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/">Engine Rebuilding</category>
			<dc:creator>Stachowiak</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158747-digital-valve-shim-measuring-tool.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>V6 assembly procedure</title>
			<link>http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158559-v6-assembly-procedure.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2009 18:51:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Does anyone know of, or have, a detailed procedure for reassembly of a V6? I've got the factory manual but I still come up with numerous questions and "best practice" scenarios. I have no doubt I can figure things out but would prefer to do it only once and correctly(without any of that tedious "backing up" and redoing). I guess I'm looking for a checklist. Am I over analyzing this? Hopefully I'm not nominating myself  to come up with an assembly FAQ.
Thanks]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Does anyone know of, or have, a detailed procedure for reassembly of a V6? I've got the factory manual but I still come up with numerous questions and &quot;best practice&quot; scenarios. I have no doubt I can figure things out but would prefer to do it only once and correctly(without any of that tedious &quot;backing up&quot; and redoing). I guess I'm looking for a checklist. Am I over analyzing this? Hopefully I'm not nominating myself  to come up with an assembly FAQ.<br />
Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/">Engine Rebuilding</category>
			<dc:creator>jojo</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158559-v6-assembly-procedure.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>combustion chamber difference</title>
			<link>http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158490-combustion-chamber-difference.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 01:10:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm slightly puzzled??  The photo on the left is from the spare head I got with my 74 spider.  I have no idea what it came from (besides and Alfa) but it does not have the cutouts around the valves that can clearly be seen on the head from my 73 GTV on the right.  I've measued the head height and it appears to be at the factory height of 112.1 mm so it's never been cut.  Did any heads come from the factory without the cutouts?  Is this some sort of modification such as the chamber being cc'ed?  Sure would like to hear any and all thoughts on the matter.  Thanks!

Image: http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f310/gigem75/two_chambers.jpg ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm slightly puzzled??  The photo on the left is from the spare head I got with my 74 spider.  I have no idea what it came from (besides and Alfa) but it does not have the cutouts around the valves that can clearly be seen on the head from my 73 GTV on the right.  I've measued the head height and it appears to be at the factory height of 112.1 mm so it's never been cut.  Did any heads come from the factory without the cutouts?  Is this some sort of modification such as the chamber being cc'ed?  Sure would like to hear any and all thoughts on the matter.  Thanks!<br />
<br />
<img src="http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f310/gigem75/two_chambers.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/">Engine Rebuilding</category>
			<dc:creator>gigem75</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158490-combustion-chamber-difference.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>euro cam install</title>
			<link>http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158463-euro-cam-install.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 03:52:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've  just installed a euro intake  cam in my 74 spica gtv.Timings all good ,turned the engine over by hand and marks line up.
My question is how tight can I get away with,without changing shims out?
They were around 0.017"
now they're between 0.014 -0.016"
Is there any danger of damage to anything?
 Thanks]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I've  just installed a euro intake  cam in my 74 spica gtv.Timings all good ,turned the engine over by hand and marks line up.<br />
My question is how tight can I get away with,without changing shims out?<br />
They were around 0.017&quot;<br />
now they're between 0.014 -0.016&quot;<br />
Is there any danger of damage to anything?<br />
 Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/">Engine Rebuilding</category>
			<dc:creator>bertone232</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158463-euro-cam-install.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Sunken Valve Seat</title>
			<link>http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158459-sunken-valve-seat.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 00:26:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I just bought an 1988 Spider with 47,000 miles. 
The cylinder head was removed when I bought it. 
The dealer diagnosis (they left it in the glove box) was as follows:
* Vehicle towed in – won’t run – function check
* Fuel, ignition, engine
* Very low compression cyl’s 1+2
* Removed cylinder head / analyze engine
* Cam timing has changed- all 4 exhaust valves
* Show signs of hitting pistons – strongly suspect
* Failure of auxiliary timing gear
* Exhaust cam has bad lobe #3 cyl
* ______ valve seat sunken deep into head


My question is this.
What can I do for the sunken valve seat?
I can easily replace the cam and valves.
I want to get the car running before I spend more money on it.
Should I jump in and buy a rebuilt cylinder head or just fix the things wrong with mine?
The car has such low miles I wouldn't think that the engine has much wear.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I just bought an 1988 Spider with 47,000 miles. <br />
The cylinder head was removed when I bought it. <br />
The dealer diagnosis (they left it in the glove box) was as follows:<ul><li>Vehicle towed in – won’t run – function check</li>
<li>Fuel, ignition, engine</li>
<li>Very low compression cyl’s 1+2</li>
<li>Removed cylinder head / analyze engine</li>
<li>Cam timing has changed- all 4 exhaust valves</li>
<li>Show signs of hitting pistons – strongly suspect</li>
<li>Failure of auxiliary timing gear</li>
<li>Exhaust cam has bad lobe #3 cyl</li>
<li>______ valve seat sunken deep into head</li>
</ul><br />
My question is this.<br />
What can I do for the sunken valve seat?<br />
I can easily replace the cam and valves.<br />
I want to get the car running before I spend more money on it.<br />
Should I jump in and buy a rebuilt cylinder head or just fix the things wrong with mine?<br />
The car has such low miles I wouldn't think that the engine has much wear.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/">Engine Rebuilding</category>
			<dc:creator>RDWizard</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Head gasket identification</title>
			<link>http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158444-head-gasket-identification.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 09 Nov 2009 15:53:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[As I was unpacking boxes I came across a cache of NOS head gaskets. Mostly Reinz, plus a no-name or two. Nearly all were for 2L, but there were two with a smaller bore that are either for 1300 or 1600, but I'm not sure which. The bore is right around 76 mm - any good tricks on how to positively ID them? I'm actually hoping they're 1600, so I can start rebuilding my spare engine as a winter project.

Thanks,
Jason]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>As I was unpacking boxes I came across a cache of NOS head gaskets. Mostly Reinz, plus a no-name or two. Nearly all were for 2L, but there were two with a smaller bore that are either for 1300 or 1600, but I'm not sure which. The bore is right around 76 mm - any good tricks on how to positively ID them? I'm actually hoping they're 1600, so I can start rebuilding my spare engine as a winter project.<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
Jason</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/">Engine Rebuilding</category>
			<dc:creator>jarrington</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158444-head-gasket-identification.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Black contamination in coolant</title>
			<link>http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158356-black-contamination-coolant.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2009 21:43:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[The coolant in my 1600 Giulia spider has turned very black and has an oily feel. My first guess was that this is the result of oil leaking into the cooling system, though I am wondering if instead this could be caused by a combustion leak. The odd thing is that no coolant has appeared in the oil – the dipstick shows no signs of "milkshake". So, one question is how to test for the source of the leak (i.e., oil vs. combustion) before disassembling the engine. Is this what a "leakdown test" is for?

My next question is: where is the most likely point for oil/combustion to leak into coolant? The head gasket seems like the obvious place to begin, but where specifically? I don't want to take everything apart, install a new head gasket and O rings, and still have the leak.

Once I get the leak repaired, how can I clean the oily residue out of the block coolant passages? The radiator and head I can easily have boiled out while things are disassembled. But should I also pull the block so that its passages can be boiled out too?

The engine is a 101 1600, but has 80mm (1750) pistons, a 1750 head gasket and a 105 1600 head – do any of those modifications make a difference? The engine runs great, has good oil pressure, good compression, etc.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>The coolant in my 1600 Giulia spider has turned very black and has an oily feel. My first guess was that this is the result of oil leaking into the cooling system, though I am wondering if instead this could be caused by a combustion leak. The odd thing is that no coolant has appeared in the oil – the dipstick shows no signs of &quot;milkshake&quot;. So, one question is how to test for the source of the leak (i.e., oil vs. combustion) before disassembling the engine. Is this what a &quot;leakdown test&quot; is for?<br />
<br />
My next question is: where is the most likely point for oil/combustion to leak into coolant? The head gasket seems like the obvious place to begin, but where specifically? I don't want to take everything apart, install a new head gasket and O rings, and still have the leak.<br />
<br />
Once I get the leak repaired, how can I clean the oily residue out of the block coolant passages? The radiator and head I can easily have boiled out while things are disassembled. But should I also pull the block so that its passages can be boiled out too?<br />
<br />
The engine is a 101 1600, but has 80mm (1750) pistons, a 1750 head gasket and a 105 1600 head – do any of those modifications make a difference? The engine runs great, has good oil pressure, good compression, etc.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/">Engine Rebuilding</category>
			<dc:creator>Alfajay</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158356-black-contamination-coolant.html</guid>
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			<title>Assemble 1750 Now Or In Spring?</title>
			<link>http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158305-assemble-1750-now-spring.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 05 Nov 2009 06:19:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Due to health issues, I never got my 1750 engine assembled this year.  I have all the machine work done as well as new pistons and liners, rebuilt head and turned crank.  I'm in Syracuse, New York and winter is approaching.  My garage is unheated and my question is, do I assemble the engine now and let it sit in the unheated garage till spring, or do I coat the parts with oil and wait till spring when I can assemble and install it.

Thanks,

Dick Stachowiak

71 GTV
71 Spider]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Due to health issues, I never got my 1750 engine assembled this year.  I have all the machine work done as well as new pistons and liners, rebuilt head and turned crank.  I'm in Syracuse, New York and winter is approaching.  My garage is unheated and my question is, do I assemble the engine now and let it sit in the unheated garage till spring, or do I coat the parts with oil and wait till spring when I can assemble and install it.<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
Dick Stachowiak<br />
<br />
71 GTV<br />
71 Spider</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/">Engine Rebuilding</category>
			<dc:creator>Stachowiak</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Cams in 2 liter with DHLA 45's]]></title>
			<link>http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158245-cams-2-liter-dhla-45s.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 04 Nov 2009 02:34:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[My 72 spider was running great a few years back with the 45 DHLA dellortos and what were thought to be 11 mm pittatore cams with stock pistons and probably otherwise stock head. It has since been through another owner and two shops with unknown work done, and lately, it has been difficult to start and has some problems when on the pedal, so I have it in another shop, even though it has less than 10,000 mi on two rebuilds. 

I'm now told the cams are shot, with a knife edge on most or all lobes. they do seem pretty sharp. Seem to have a 103.2000 number on one, which seems odd for pittatores, as I expected no part number. 

So, now I'm stumped. I don't want to run stock cams with 45's, and I don't want to change the intake. Would a 105.48 euro intake and stock 105.2000exhaust work okay with 45's in otherwise stock motor? I have unknown reground cams in the parts bins that I could try, but not sure I want to experiment to that extent with outside help. . .   and there is a bit of rust on those. Or I could have the "sharp" cams that use to work fine left in it and look elsewhere for the problems with starting and acceleration. 

Any suggestions?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My 72 spider was running great a few years back with the 45 DHLA dellortos and what were thought to be 11 mm pittatore cams with stock pistons and probably otherwise stock head. It has since been through another owner and two shops with unknown work done, and lately, it has been difficult to start and has some problems when on the pedal, so I have it in another shop, even though it has less than 10,000 mi on two rebuilds. <br />
<br />
I'm now told the cams are shot, with a knife edge on most or all lobes. they do seem pretty sharp. Seem to have a 103.2000 number on one, which seems odd for pittatores, as I expected no part number. <br />
<br />
So, now I'm stumped. I don't want to run stock cams with 45's, and I don't want to change the intake. Would a 105.48 euro intake and stock 105.2000exhaust work okay with 45's in otherwise stock motor? I have unknown reground cams in the parts bins that I could try, but not sure I want to experiment to that extent with outside help. . .   and there is a bit of rust on those. Or I could have the &quot;sharp&quot; cams that use to work fine left in it and look elsewhere for the problems with starting and acceleration. <br />
<br />
Any suggestions?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/">Engine Rebuilding</category>
			<dc:creator>RC Hiatt</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158245-cams-2-liter-dhla-45s.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>crankshaft plugs</title>
			<link>http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158091-crankshaft-plugs.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 30 Oct 2009 16:57:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>hi there

can anyone help me with the installation of the alfa romeo 1977 2.0l crankshaft plugs i mean some drawing or internet links to find where the crankshaft plugs are how can i change this

thanks</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>hi there<br />
<br />
can anyone help me with the installation of the alfa romeo 1977 2.0l crankshaft plugs i mean some drawing or internet links to find where the crankshaft plugs are how can i change this<br />
<br />
thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/">Engine Rebuilding</category>
			<dc:creator>mannuel85</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>crank pully removal</title>
			<link>http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158063-crank-pully-removal.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 29 Oct 2009 22:14:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>not to sound dumb, but the nut is removed counter clock wise, like any other nut right? any help or ideas on getting it off would be help full. Ive bent back to locking washer, my electric impact goes to 250 torque and still it wont budge. thanks in advance</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>not to sound dumb, but the nut is removed counter clock wise, like any other nut right? any help or ideas on getting it off would be help full. Ive bent back to locking washer, my electric impact goes to 250 torque and still it wont budge. thanks in advance</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/">Engine Rebuilding</category>
			<dc:creator>ramf02</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158063-crank-pully-removal.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Engine removal procedure</title>
			<link>http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158043-engine-removal-procedure.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 29 Oct 2009 13:06:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am in a process doing engine overhauling to my 74 GTV 2.0L. I will be removing only the engine since the transmission was rebuilt recently.

How many bolts are exactly to remove the engine from the bellhousing and which part ot the tie rod needs to come loose to pull the engine out.

I heard that removing engine alone is much more difficult than together with transmission, the reason it will be difficult to bolt it back in.

Giorgio</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am in a process doing engine overhauling to my 74 GTV 2.0L. I will be removing only the engine since the transmission was rebuilt recently.<br />
<br />
How many bolts are exactly to remove the engine from the bellhousing and which part ot the tie rod needs to come loose to pull the engine out.<br />
<br />
I heard that removing engine alone is much more difficult than together with transmission, the reason it will be difficult to bolt it back in.<br />
<br />
Giorgio</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/">Engine Rebuilding</category>
			<dc:creator>Giorgio68</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/158043-engine-removal-procedure.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>direction of the pistons in a v6</title>
			<link>http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/157960-direction-pistons-v6.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 27 Oct 2009 02:27:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Please let me know if this is correct:
The arrows on the pistons must face the front of the engine, ie where the crank pulley is.

:confused: yes?no?
Thanks!!
Mike</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Please let me know if this is correct:<br />
The arrows on the pistons must face the front of the engine, ie where the crank pulley is.<br />
<br />
:confused: yes?no?<br />
Thanks!!<br />
Mike</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/">Engine Rebuilding</category>
			<dc:creator>Mike164S</dc:creator>
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			<title>Overboring Stock 2.0 liners VS NEW Complete set up.</title>
			<link>http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/157953-overboring-stock-2-0-liners-vs-new-complete-set-up.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 26 Oct 2009 22:15:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I will keep It simple as I am posing the question to those with experience:)

1978 2.0l Spider
Set up for Spica (conversion to 40DOCE in future)

Stock liners have rust, but machine shop has recommended a minimum overbore will take care of rust. Thus Oversized pistons? JE wants $100 (aprox per)

                        * OR*

Just order complete (pistons, rings, liners) set up from supplier and call it a day?


It seems that any route is $800 just a question as to who gets the $.

Purpose: Full engine rebuild for street use during summer 1 day a week.
            Also for personal enrichment, I want to build this engine.

Any opinions or experience..
Thanks:confused:

Benjamin</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I will keep It simple as I am posing the question to those with experience:)<br />
<br />
1978 2.0l Spider<br />
Set up for Spica (conversion to 40DOCE in future)<br />
<br />
Stock liners have rust, but machine shop has recommended a minimum overbore will take care of rust. Thus Oversized pistons? JE wants $100 (aprox per)<br />
<br />
                        <b> OR</b><br />
<br />
Just order complete (pistons, rings, liners) set up from supplier and call it a day?<br />
<br />
<br />
It seems that any route is $800 just a question as to who gets the $.<br />
<br />
Purpose: Full engine rebuild for street use during summer 1 day a week.<br />
            Also for personal enrichment, I want to build this engine.<br />
<br />
Any opinions or experience..<br />
Thanks:confused:<br />
<br />
Benjamin</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/">Engine Rebuilding</category>
			<dc:creator>Benjamin</dc:creator>
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		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Tech guide determination for 78 spider 2.0L</title>
			<link>http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-rebuilding/157896-tech-guide-determination-78-spider-2-0l.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 25 Oct 2009 06:46:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Does anyone know if either the guides in this manual *"L-Jet"* or *"Motronic"* can apply to a 1978 Spider with a 2.0 liter engine?

The guys at Centerline said that this was their only guide.

I love the info but the variables concern me as to how they may apply
especial for torque settings. 

Am I just being paranoid?

If there is more specific info available, I would love to get my hands on it


Thanks 
Benjamin]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Does anyone know if either the guides in this manual <b>&quot;L-Jet&quot;</b> or <b>&quot;Motronic&quot;</b> can apply to a 1978 Spider with a 2.0 liter engine?<br />
<br />
The guys at Centerline said that this was their only guide.<br />
<br />
I love the info but the variables concern me as to how they may apply<br />
especial for torque settings. <br />
<br />
Am I just being paranoid?<br />
<br />
If there is more specific info available, I would love to get my hands on it<br />
<br />
<br />
Thanks <br />
Benjamin</div>


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			<dc:creator>Benjamin</dc:creator>
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