<![CDATA[Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums - 164 & 168 (1991-1995)]]> http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums en Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:15:39 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/images_ab/misc/rss.jpg <![CDATA[Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums - 164 & 168 (1991-1995)]]> http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums Track Time!! http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158866-track-time.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:54:46 GMT MobileMe Gallery. Anyway, I hadn't tracked the car yet and was wondering how it would do. Only had one session since I didn't really "do" the track day. The Volvo was a HOOT!!! Nice to finally get it out there. learned a couple of things. I need a little more tuning on the SU Carbs and the Bilstien sport shocks are too soft for the track. the car was sooo tossable, I was able to drive it at 9-10/10 with ease. That went well. I have a guy in the club interested in buying the car to do vintage racing. We went for a short drive. Got back and I needed to go home to care for my 3 month old. I needed to push start the car!!:eek::eek: I could tell the battery was low and the car wasn't charging. Made 45 tense miles home.. hoping the car wouldn't konk. A little later I put the battery on the charger and looked under the hood. Thinking the regulator was bad ( Alt is nearly new). Found one of the wires came off the alternator.. Easy fix, should have looked under the hood before I left.]]> Went to CMP today for a local Ferrari club event.. Got out for 1/2 day.
Didn't take the Alfa. Drove the Volvo 142 (it is a track car)
Pics of car
MobileMe Gallery.

Anyway, I hadn't tracked the car yet and was wondering how it would do.
Only had one session since I didn't really "do" the track day. The Volvo was
a HOOT!!! Nice to finally get it out there. learned a couple of things.
I need a little more tuning on the SU Carbs and the Bilstien sport shocks
are too soft for the track. the car was sooo tossable, I was able to drive it
at 9-10/10 with ease. That went well. I have a guy in the club interested
in buying the car to do vintage racing. We went for a short drive.
Got back and I needed to go home to care for my 3 month old. I needed
to push start the car!!:eek::eek: I could tell the battery was low and the car
wasn't charging. Made 45 tense miles home.. hoping the car wouldn't
konk. A little later I put the battery on the charger and looked under the hood.
Thinking the regulator was bad ( Alt is nearly new). Found one of
the wires came off the alternator.. Easy fix, should have looked under the hood before I left. ]]> Bremms http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158866-track-time.html 164: Color Code Bumpers http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158848-164-color-code-bumpers.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:43:18 GMT Hi guys,
while I was on vacation a crazy driver decided to ram her ugly green Seat into my 92' 164 QV .
Now the car needs a paint job on the rear part, including the bumper which is what I need the color code of.

I'm not painting the front bumper and the skirts, too, since unfortunately money matters to me...it's important that I get the original code or at least one that comes as close as possible (in the latter case I'd consider having all plastic parts repainted, but only if you can tell the color difference easily)

once again thank you in advance ]]> McBeth-164QV http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158848-164-color-code-bumpers.html Suggestions on how to effectively remove 2 164 L engines and at units http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158841-suggestions-how-effectively-remove-2-164-l-engines-units.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 11:48:08 GMT Ok so a friend (BB member Jontg428) and I are going to be removing two 164 engines and auto trans units this weekend. I just wanted to know what way is the best to do the job. Is it out the top or out the bottom? These are parts cars and I need one engine for another 164 and Jon wants to rebuild the other for his "White dragon" that now has over 210k+- on the original engine.
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]]> 164 FAMILY http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158841-suggestions-how-effectively-remove-2-164-l-engines-units.html 12v tbelt Tensioner bearing repack http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158833-12v-tbelt-tensioner-bearing-repack.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 02:56:21 GMT Has anyone tried to repack a Timing belt tensioner bearing, I have two of the newer style, both have dried up grease, but otherwise were working fine. I have had sucess with the drivebelt bearings, but timing belt is another story. I was planning on cleaning one and repacking it with redline synthetic cv grease. Has anyone tried to repack a Timing belt tensioner bearing, I have two of the newer style, both have dried up grease, but otherwise were working fine. I have had sucess with the drivebelt bearings, but timing belt is another story.
I was planning on cleaning one and repacking it with redline synthetic cv grease. ]]> dipstickone http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158833-12v-tbelt-tensioner-bearing-repack.html Valve Timing Diagrams http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158822-valve-timing-diagrams.html Thu, 19 Nov 2009 23:14:58 GMT http://wps.com/AMC/Rambler-327/The%2...s/v8-fig30.jpg Any help you can give me would be much appreciated, Thanks a lot, Matt]]> Hi, I’m Matt and am currently studying motorsport at Derby University.

As part of my power train module, I have been set an assignment, based around valve timing on different engines. I have to base my research on a 2 valve Hemi engine, and a 4 valve pent roof.

I decided, after a little research, that the Alfa V6 3.0 litre seems to be an excellent engine to base my studies on, because the 2 valve and 4 valve [per cylinder] versions are based on the same engine.

To construct my valve timing diagrams, I need to find out when the Alfa exhaust and inlet valves open and close, based on crank angle. For example, on an engine that consistently achieves complete combustion, the exhaust valve can be opened at about 40 degrees before BDC.

I hope I’ve explained this in a way that you can understand! I’ve never been very good at explaining things!

Here’s a link to an example of a valve timing diagram so you can see what I mean: http://wps.com/AMC/Rambler-327/The%2...s/v8-fig30.jpg

Any help you can give me would be much appreciated,

Thanks a lot,

Matt ]]> Uni-Project http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158822-valve-timing-diagrams.html a/c http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158725-c.html Tue, 17 Nov 2009 16:44:07 GMT My a/c quit blowing air,even on heat.I don't have a mechanic near and was wondering what this could cost to fix if there are parts available?The red light shape like a fan blade comes for a few after starting up.This a 93 164L 5spd.Thanks for any info. ]]> darryl954 http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158725-c.html Fiat-Chrysler to restart 164 production? http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158682-fiat-chrysler-restart-164-production.html Mon, 16 Nov 2009 14:52:16 GMT Next from Alfa, I'd like to see a V6-engined, 164-sized sedan with FWD that could beat the competition on performance and maybe even price. I'd be looking for a car like that rather than the rumored, larger RWD sedan based on the next-generation Dodge C300 sedan platform.

It wouldn't hurt if it looked like the 164.

What would you like to see from Alfa as far as new models in the coming years? ]]> sonny http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158682-fiat-chrysler-restart-164-production.html Steering Rack Replacement http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158679-steering-rack-replacement.html Mon, 16 Nov 2009 10:23:18 GMT Hello everybody,

I'm mid-way through a project with my 20-year-old son to get my '89 164 back on the road for him to drive.

I retired the car about 18 months ago when two major jobs needed attention and I didn't have the resources to tackle them. The steering rack was worn and getting quite clunky, and then a head gasket went.

I subsequently found someone selling a wreck, very cheaply, that had recently had the heads reconditioned and a reconditioned steering rack fitted.

We currently have both engines out and have started on the steering racks. So far we have been unable to loosen the lock nut on the tie-rod (track-rod) (I've only tried on one side of one car so far). I'm assuming I just need to use bigger spanners and more torque, or is there some trick to it?

Are there any other things we should be aware of or looking closely at while we're changing the steering rack?

Are there any other things you would recommend we look at while the engine is out?

Thanks,
Chris Alger ]]> fartracer http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158679-steering-rack-replacement.html Where can I get my key copied? http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158673-where-can-i-get-my-key-copied.html Mon, 16 Nov 2009 04:57:09 GMT Hey Gang,

I only haved the one master key for my '92 164S and went to have copies made at Menard's. The copies don't work.

No biggie, I'm only out like $2.50, but the question remains, who can copy my key for me?

Is it a question of ordering proper blanks and bringing them somewhere to get cut, or do you think a specialized locksmith will be able to help me?

As always, any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Nick ]]> Fastpants http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158673-where-can-i-get-my-key-copied.html Timing belt service interval - 164LS http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158671-timing-belt-service-interval-164ls.html Mon, 16 Nov 2009 03:50:08 GMT Quick question regarding timing belt service interval for my 164LS: every 30,000 miles - is it only based on miles or is there a time factor also? It would take me 10 years to hit 30K, so how often should it be changed? Thanks Paul Quick question regarding timing belt service interval for my 164LS:

every 30,000 miles - is it only based on miles or is there a time factor also? It would take me 10 years to hit 30K, so how often should it be changed?

Thanks

Paul ]]> ploughna http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158671-timing-belt-service-interval-164ls.html Slammed 159 http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158644-slammed-159-a.html Sun, 15 Nov 2009 12:12:36 GMT CAR FEATURE>>LUX ALFA 159 - Speedhunters It surprised me, because this is where I go to see a lot of trendy JDM and Euro scene stuff. What do y'all think?]]> A site I visit a lot has a feature on this really low 159:

CAR FEATURE>>LUX ALFA 159 - Speedhunters

It surprised me, because this is where I go to see a lot of trendy JDM and Euro scene stuff.

What do y'all think? ]]> Grant http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158644-slammed-159-a.html <![CDATA[My Post VB Nor'easter weekend]]> http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158624-my-post-vb-noreaster-weekend.html Sat, 14 Nov 2009 20:09:17 GMT Starting pre Veteran's Day we have been locked into an Imperfect Storm week from hell. Storm Ida and North East Winds did us a number and misty rain still with us on this no sunshine but Alfa whine Saturday.

I started up the stable mates today to dry out Rosso, Old Blue, QS2 and my Originale.

I had to finally break down and replace worn and perforated R/H inner front fender liner on QS2 as I couldn't keep water out of serpentine belt, The alternator and ABS lights just wouldn't stay out as water makes belt slip even though it is properly tensioned.

Besides that I have been lucky only one small tree limb fell on Rosso and didn't do any bodily harm. ]]> Alfisto Steve http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158624-my-post-vb-noreaster-weekend.html 91 164 crank pulley removal? http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158613-91-164-crank-pulley-removal.html Sat, 14 Nov 2009 07:59:36 GMT so i did a search and got tired of looking though threads, i have someone interested in the pulley of my parts car. anyway how difficult is it to remove and what would i need? also whats a good price for it? eh also asked about some sensor and a pigtail? anyone got any ideas what that stuff is? thanks for any help you can provide so i did a search and got tired of looking though threads, i have someone interested in the pulley of my parts car. anyway how difficult is it to remove and what would i need? also whats a good price for it? eh also asked about some sensor and a pigtail? anyone got any ideas what that stuff is? thanks for any help you can provide ]]> david varpness http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158613-91-164-crank-pulley-removal.html 164 Aftermarket Mufflers http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158612-164-aftermarket-mufflers.html Sat, 14 Nov 2009 07:18:39 GMT I just received a used Ansa muffler from Centerline. I want to clean it up a bit before I mount it onto my 95' LS.

I tried looking for a sound clip on youtube, but I think I only found a video of someone idling his 164, so I couldn't really hear what it sounded like when it revved up. Coincidentally, I think it's the dark silver colored 164 LS that's being parted out currently in the for sale section.

Anyways, I will try to put up a sound clip of the Ansa exhaust just as a future reference.

So, what brand mufflers do you like on your 164's? Any sound clips to put up? How has the quality been of your brand-x muffler?

Personally, I think SuperSprint mufflers are the best for European cars, but I've never seen one on a 164 (did they ever make one?)
My experience was from driving an E30 325is with about 180hp from Dinan upgrades, but the exhaust was amazing...it was not much louder than stock from about idle to 4000rpm, but above that it SHRIEKED! I didn't know aftermarket companies could tune the exhaust well enough to remove resonance, yet open up above a certain RPM. I was very impressed. Infact, I won't be surprised if this Ansa muffler I'm fitting will be a little boomy on the freeway. It would be great if it was tuned a bit like the Supersprint, but I'm not banking on it. :D

What brand do you like the best?? ]]> Grant http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158612-164-aftermarket-mufflers.html Doing your own Alignment http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158610-doing-your-own-alignment.html Sat, 14 Nov 2009 06:23:59 GMT Tire Tech Information - Alignment Now for camber issues: Excessive -camber. My suggestion is to slot top mounting holes by about 5mm. I recommend trying to set camber to 0 degrees. There are many inexpensive tools for this or you can use a angle finder and a straight edge. I will explain more later... Try it sometime. I just finished mine today and the car handles great, drives straight, steering wheel straight, no tramlining, it is near perfect. Jason]]> I thought I might post some information for those you may want to do their own alignment. It is very simple but slightly time consuming.

I myself typically take my own car in for alignments but have since said there is no real need to.

Few things needed:

1 Level ground
Florescent Pink String (typically used for masonry)
Jack stands
Slip plate- 8 tiles smooth side facing each other with grease in between
(this is needed for the wheels to turn)
Level
A very accurate metal ruler with mm's ( do not recommend a tape measure, I do not think it is accurate enough for this)
4 pieces of ply wood (squares) for under each wheel/ with shims if needed.



1.First thing is to make sure the ground is actually level.

2. If level put tiles (2 each wheel) under each wheel. With a level make sure tiles are level on both sides. Do this all the way around. With full weight of car you can take another level of each tile if you want. I checked mine at least 4-5 times to make sure it was level.

3. Proper tire inflation

4. You can add some weight to the tunk or drivers seat if needed.


5. Take the jack stands, one on each end of the car. Tie string onto jack stands and run string taught down the side of the car making sure the string is at the center point of the wheel(I did this with 4 jack stands 2 on each side).
6. Measure from dead center of the wheel 10mm Front and 13.5mm rear. Adjust both ends until you have a perfect 10mm F/13.5mm rear.(use outside of string not center)

NOTE: (Front Track 1515mm/Rear track 1488mm) 27mm total track difference. Slit total in half = 13.5mm

Spacers will not affect actual track. So no need to add spacer size to factory track.

7. Now, make sure steering wheel is dead on. If you have a helper you can have them sit in the drivers seat and hold the wheel but typically the 164 does not move easy with adjustments of the tie rods, so just centering it should be ok. But check it after each adjustment.

8. With metal ruler take a measurement of front wheel Front and rear of wheel at very far edge.

Note your readings. Then check to make sure the string is still at 10mm/13.5mm (front and rear wheel). Still at 10mm/13.5mm? Good.

9. Now take measurement of rear wheel. Note your measurement.

For example:

FF: 60.5cm
FR: 63.5cm
-------------
3mm difference -toe (ideal 0 to 1mm toe-out)

FR: 65.5cm
RR: 60.5cm
-------------
5mm difference - toe (ideal 1 to 2mm toe-in, little more toe in with skinner tires)

Now if your running string on both sides, take your measurements on the other side.

Recommended alignment specs:

-2mm to 0mm (-) toe out,
toe-out Front ( prefer 0mm to - .5mm)
+4 to +6mm (+) = Toe in.
toe-in rear (I prefer 1 to 3mm +/- with wider tires 225-235/17, Stick within spec for 15,16" tires)


10. Now, time to adjust.

11. Loosen tie rod nut (22mm). Adjust by turning tie rod until you get to the proper measurement.

12. After adjustment turn steering wheel a few times and then re-center. Then take a reading again. If dead on your good. Example- FF: 60.5mm, FR: 60.5mm (always make sure center line is still @10mm). Tighten nut (but not fully yet)
This indicates 0 front toe.

13. Rear: Loosen the nut and bolt on each end of the rod (13mm), you can turn this by hand. Just grab the rod and turn it until you get the measurement you want.

14. After each adjustment. Settle the suspension by pushing down on the rear bumper when doing rear.

15. Once ideal measurement is made tighten rod bolts.

16. Do the same for the other side.

17. Now that both sides are done, do one more check of the center line string, settle the suspension on the rear and turn steering wheel and re-center.

Check all your measurements. If good, tighten it all up and take it for test drive.

It does not take long and I can bet you never take it to an alignment shop again. First time may take 3 hours in total.
For information on alignment read here first: Tire Tech Information - Alignment

Now for camber issues: Excessive -camber.

My suggestion is to slot top mounting holes by about 5mm. I recommend trying to set camber to 0 degrees. There are many inexpensive tools for this or you can use a angle finder and a straight edge.

I will explain more later...


Try it sometime.

I just finished mine today and the car handles great, drives straight, steering wheel straight, no tramlining, it is near perfect.

Jason ]]> Alfissimo Int. http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/158610-doing-your-own-alignment.html