Removing Head Studs HOW TO ??

**Alfar7** · #1 (**permalink**) 05-13-2008, 08:10 AM

What is best way to get out? broke at top threads. Intend to remove all.
I anticipate some issues getting loose at bottom. This engine fresly rebuilt. do not intend to remove liners.
PLEASE! EXPERIENCED ANSWERS ONLY!

Thanks

AR67202 · #2 (**permalink**) 05-13-2008, 08:56 AM

liberal amounts of heat added, and a big set of stilsons... you're in for a big job

**1750GT** · #3 (**permalink**) 05-13-2008, 10:09 AM

I was contemplating doing the same (at one time), but after speaking to Mike Besic about this at last year's AROC convention I decided not to attempt this on my block. Mike said that this is a very difficult job to do requiring a lot of heat and numerous repeat cycles and even he would not want to do this job again. The factory repair manual shows this procedure being done as well...but on newer engine this is probably easy to do since the stud hasn't had the benefit of 30-40 years of galvanic corrosion at work. I recall one post or thread about this very topic and that EDM can be used to burn the stud out instead.

alfazagato · #4 (**permalink**) 05-13-2008, 11:12 AM

There is such a thing as an impact stud remover which was used to great effect on my 48 year old SZ block. It is 1/2" drive tubular device which has a series of rollers in it which, when put over the stud, locks and a great deal of turning moment can be transmitted. They also used lots of heat, WD you name it. BUT I do not believe that it is possible to do with the liners in place as the remover would not fit down alongside the liner. Sorry!
Discharge erosion can be used but you would have to remove the liner to get to the base of the stud. I have had this done to a block when the stud broke at the water jacket floor. I don't know if it can be used with a full stud in place.

DrEntropy · #5 (**permalink**) 05-13-2008, 01:16 PM

The jugs must come out. The "long tubular" device is a "sprag" device. It will be necessary to get as much grip on the stud as possible, as close to the bottom as possible. Lots of PENETRANT (WD stands for "Water Displacement" and is NOT penetrant) like PB Blaster, Kroil or equivalent. And heat/cool cycles. And shock. If you haven't done this before, it would be best put in the hands of a competent, experienced machinist.

**Andrew** · #6 (**permalink**) 05-13-2008, 01:17 PM

Norman Racing recommends EDM in this instance.

Andrew

TS_turbo · #7 (**permalink**) 05-13-2008, 03:39 PM

i have removed 3 stud with liners in place but my method is weird

2 people ... i tig weld large nut on stud just above liners, after this one person apply torque on nut and second person "shock" the stud by heavy inert hamer torqued on top of stud ... key is torque+vibration and upward force at the same time

Gordon Raymond · #8 (**permalink**) 05-17-2008, 10:48 AM

Richard, As we all seem to be on the same page here, try TS turbo's plan. I have never tried that one, but desperate situations call for desperate measures. Like I mentioned in my earlier E-Mail, worse case, it just busts off at the bottom of the water jacket, and you will have to take it all apart anyway. Now IS your chance to modify the whole shebang and use a set of 2 L studs! That will be FUN! Send me PHOTO's! What a pain!!

TS_turbo · #9 (**permalink**) 05-17-2008, 01:15 PM

2l studs ? is there thinner studs ? i have 1600 block from 116 giulietta and it have 12mm ones from factory

GTV-GR · #10 (**permalink**) 05-17-2008, 05:52 PM

If you wanna get medieval on those studs follow my advice.

1. Vinegar on all studs - let it sit overnight

2. Weld a nut on each stud - let it cool down

3. More vinegar

4. Heat the aluminium around the stud and start unbolting

P.S. If still stuck : MORE VINEGAR

Gordon Raymond · #11 (**permalink**) 05-19-2008, 12:47 AM

TS turbo, Yes the 1600 105 studs are 10.35 / 10.40 mm at the deck and 10.75 across the threads at the top end on the block sitting in front of me. The assembled 2L in my shop, appears to have larger head nuts than this disassembled 1600. I only imagine the whole stud is larger dia. perhaps not, though your 12 mm measurement seems to reinforce this. I've replaced busted ones with EDM help, but never modified a block to go larger. Richard's pretty handy with this stuff; he could likely do it!

bilby105 · #12 (**permalink**) 05-19-2008, 05:34 AM

Hi Richard,

I had the same problem with my '66 Giulia Super - snapped off top of stud at threads. After removing the head I used two pairs of large locking pliers (vice grips) to lock onto the offending stud and was able to fairly easily unscrew the stud from the block with the liners still in place (I did siphon all of the coolant out first). The locking pliers made it like having a large T handle on top of the stud. If your T is large enough it gives you more torque advantage in unscrewing the stud but if you're unlucky it may just shear off and then you will have to pull out the liners to fix it anyway. My experience was very painless - maybe I was lucky with mine. Good luck.