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Line boring a 1750 4-cylinder block
Please remind me the downsides of line boring blocks. Obviously the small timing chain will be looser. Does the crank still center on the oil seals?
A friend unknowingly ran an engine with too little oil in it (about two quarts in it) and #2 main totally froze, and #2 rod also didn't look so hot. The other journals didn't look great, somewhat scored, but both the mains and rod journals miked out perfectly - though there is a copper coating on #2 main. This engine has 7K miles on it.
We just brought over a spare block and I'll be pulling off the oil pan as soon as I send this off.
The machinist (where we were earlier today) was pretty much saying doom and gloom. He's swamped with work so it's not a ploy to make it as expensive as possible. He is afraid the #2 main has distorted - and might well be right. Looking at both the bearing half in the block and the cap, there was obviously a lot of heat involved.
Friend would like to get the engine back ASAP, primarily because he has been using the car it came from (a Berlina) as a daily driver. He does have plenty of other cars to drive in the meantime though.
My rambling is...if my engine, I'd have the machinist grind the crank 10 under and give it back to me. I'd put in fresh bearings after bluing both the #2's main and rod inserts. I'd turn the engine over a good handful of times and if the wear on the bluing looked even, I'd leave it. I would run the engine for only a few minutes then drain the oil and replace the filter.
Oh, I forgot to add that the head is currently still on. So not a lot of work to get it buttoned up to give it a try. Crank and head from this engine could later be switched to the other block if need be.
Comments?
Biba
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Linear Mode
