How fast can you Pull an Engine? - Page 2

Bill77 · #16 (**permalink**) 04-27-2007, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slapbass

I can pull a Porsche 914 engine in less than 20... But then again, who couldn't. You just have to remove some bolts and let it hit the ground.

**bshorey** · #17 (**permalink**) 04-27-2007, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by velocedoc

I have pulled just the engine in under an hour. (air tools really help) A whole engine with trans runs another hour because of the center console, drive shaft etc. Putting it back in is another story, as it takes lots of preparation to clean things up.

**gprocket** · #18 (**permalink**) 04-28-2007, 10:06 PM

What is your trick for lining up the transmission? Are there any other issues?

I just installed the 1750 in the GTV Friday and found it to be much more of a pain than I expected. This was my first time installing so I expected it to take a while and it did. I wasn't too concerned about scratching the engine bay because this one wasn't painted and but when I put this 1750 into it's permanent home ('69 spider) it will be painted and I will be plenty paranoid. Osso and Papajam did it with Osso's muesum piece in a recent thread but I'm not in their league.

- Rich D.

**velocedoc** · #19 (**permalink**) 04-29-2007, 08:07 PM

A tip, move the mounting bracket forward one set of studs so you can get a steeper angle on the engine/transmission. Then I would put some heavy tape over the top of the transmission gear selector so it doesn't scratch the firewall. Also put a heavy blanket/bathmat/cardboard on the front of the car so that when the pan drops into the engine bay you won't scratch the front. These should make life easier.

DanP · #20 (**permalink**) 05-01-2007, 12:19 AM

I can do it in about an hour. Pull tranny then engine. The easiest way! The shifter bolt can be removed from the bottom, this cuts a lot of time.

Clayton105 · #21 (**permalink**) 05-01-2007, 12:40 AM

When I used to do this sort of stuff for a living I had a couple of tricks to get the time and effort down to a minimum:

One was: if I was doing a full engine rebuild on a 105 (and not touching the tranny), I first would pull the head/carbs and exhaust manifolds off, and then take out the bottom end. Installation was a reverse order: final assembly of the head/block in the car.

The advantage was the ease at getting at all the bolts down low (starter, bell housing and engine mounts etc) and under the carbs. Of course you don't get to see the lovely clean finished engine on a stand, but then you probably save an hour on the whole job.

**gprocket** · #22 (**permalink**) 05-04-2007, 10:20 PM

Pulled the 1750 out of the GTV Thursday. This was a temporary arrangement to allow me to break in this engine while I replaced the clutch on the 2L and cleaned the block. This time it took just a bit over 2 hours with two of us. A personal best!

My preference now is to pull the engine/trans/driveshft as a unit. I am also leaving the exhaust manifolds on the engine and disconnecting at the downpipes. I have found a 36" extension from under the car will reach all the downpipe bolts. I am using anti-seeze on the bolts so I'm not fighting rust in another year.

Name: GTV engine coming out.JPG
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Name: GTV engine coming out.JPG
Views: 223
Size: 168.5 KB

Jeff and the rebuilt 1750 coming out.

Installed the 2L Friday. I'm still not too quick (too many interuptions). I think the major difference is that when I started pulling the engine I had all my tools organized. The next day they were all over the place and I'm sure I spent more time hunting for stuff than working on the car.

I'm getting better anyway...

**gprocket** · #23 (**permalink**) 01-10-2008, 01:19 PM

A new personal best of 63mins for pulling a motor. That is for two guys pulling a clean carborated 2L out of a Spider. Getting to the lower motor mount nuts is so much easier on a carb'd 2L - they are all accessable from the top.