Running Engine stand

[gprocket]

I've done a fair amount of searching but haven't found an answer:

Has anyone built an engine stand that one could run the engine in? I'm not talking dyno and I'm not talking redlining but I after all the time I'll put in to the rebuild I would like to be able to fire it up before I put it in the car only to find I forgot the crank... Really I'm thinking leaks and idle.

I would think that a sturdy tube base that picks up the engine mounts and rear transmission mount would be a good start. Mount a radiator in the front. For us spica guys (and gals) I'd need to assemble a fuel delivery system. Mount a battery somewhere. I have a good pile of spare parts that I could assemble for this.

Sounds like a bit of work but since I'll have the engine finished a month or so before the body is ready... well you know what they say about idle hands.

So I'm lazy enough not to want to re-invent the wheel so if someone has done this sucsessfully I'd love some tips.

Thanks,

Rich D.

[dan farmer]

Mike Valant has a few pix of the one he built on his web site. Go to

http://engr.smu.edu/rcam/cpm3v/2lrebuild/2lrebuild1.htm

and click on through to picture 23 and up. If you have questions, he is on this board, occasionally posting in the AROSC regional forum.

-df

[slyalfa]

I would not do that if that was me. as soon as you get it runing you need to breakin the rings. there is a very very short time after the first start that you can do that. and if it is too late the rings will never seal.

[ghnl]

I agree with SlyAlfa. Unless you have proper running stand to start and break in the engine, you'll be better off making sure everything is right, turn over the engine by hand a few times to make sure nothing hangs up or is stuck then get it in the car and be ready to run it ASAP after starting it.

What I do is double check everything - fuel/ignition/etc then crank it without the spark plugs until I see the oil pressure guage move (run the starter about 30 seconds then wait 60 seconds and repeat - usually 2-4 cycles will get some pressure showing on the guage). Then install the spark plugs and fire it up! Run it at 2000 rpm's for 10-20 minutes to bed in the cam & tappets. Check for leaks during this run up.

Shut it down and check the dip stick (the one in the engine - not the one behind the wheel...!).

Next take it out for a fairly long ride. Vary the throttle during this run. Empty secondary roads are best. Build up to red line in steps. Say 3000 rpm at first, then 4000 rpm and then 5000 rpm. These runs up to the 'red line' should be somewhat brisk. That helps seat the rings. If you 'baby it' too much the cylinders can get a glaze that may never allow the rings to seat.

Change the oil & filter frequently at first. I did it at 100 miles and again at 500 miles. Our Spider uses no oil between its 3000 mile oil changes.

[gprocket]

Ah yes, very good point! I had not considered the break in period. I suppose I could run for the first 20 minutes at 2,000 rpm and the install the engine in the car. On the other hand, it seems like a lot of work for 20 minutes of run time. It would certainly take less time to pull the engine to fix a leak then to build the stand...

But man it still sounds like a cool project... I do like Valant's rig.

- Rich D.

[Andrew]

You could fashion a test rig out of an unused bellhousing, welded or bolted to something more solid. I'd used one to install a starter on an engine out of a car to do a compression test and to check oil pressure.

I've seen APE start engines just sitting on the floor with fuel and spark hooked up.

Andrew

[ossodiseppia]

Gary built that test stand so he could test the engines he was buildiing for his clients. Many times, he did not have the car in his shop. Having the engine stand gave him the opportunity to make sure the engine was running well before he sent it out the door. In all of the time that I knew Gary, I never heard of this causing issues.

[alfadan]

I would suggest at least testing the engine for coolant leaks with a pressurized system. I made one up out of pvc and hooks the air compressor to it and it holds an adjustable pressure on the system while it's out of the car. I can post pics of it if interested.

[Andrew]

I don't think there's anything inherently wrong with running new engines on dynos before installing in cars, in which case you can impose a load on them. That's how all race shops, including Hasslegren here in Berkeley, do it. I guess it's a different matter if your stand can't load the engine to break in the rings.

Andrew

[turbolarespider]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andrew I don't think there's anything inherently wrong with running new engines on dynos before installing in cars, in which case you can impose a load on them. That's how all race shops, including Hasslegren here in Berkeley, do it. I guess it's a different matter if your stand can't load the engine to break in the rings. Andrew

[gprocket]

Since I've actually now got three engine rebuilds going I think I could justify the time to build the stand. I just really like the idea of checking it out before it gets into the car. Since I am painting the engine bay I would like to minimize the number if times I will need to pull the engine. Once would be perfect.

- Rich D.

Ps: dan, I love to see your rig - please post pictures.

[pillowmeto]

I will weld you up one in exchange for a few sets of hard top seals

[gprocket]

You know the world is upside down when rubber weatherstrip is more costly than welded steel tubing...

[Tifosi]

Steel is recycleable and readily available, rubber trees are few and limited to growth in just a narrow latitude band worldwide (or would that be world round?).

Conversely steel is made with electricity as the smelting heat source while rubber, even man made variants, are significantly more dependant on petrolium, both in process and as an additive, thus subject to oils fluctuations in price rolling over into product price fluctuations.

That and Alfa rubber bits seem to the the goofiest shaped, and not even close to simular to anything else out there, rubber parts....

[kredden]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andrew You could fashion a test rig out of an unused bellhousing, welded or bolted to something more solid. I'd used one to install a starter on an engine out of a car to do a compression test and to check oil pressure. Andrew