74 GTV Engine Rebuild Advice

[sfovc2003]

I'm having a complete engine rebuild done on my 74 GTV. It includes all the usual stuff like new sleeves, Motronic 10 to 1 pistons, head work by Dan Marvin, 40 DCOE Webers, tubular headers and exhaust from Alfaholics, new performance cams from Megacycle (11mm lift), timing chains, heavy duty clutch, oil and water pumps, bearings, etc. I have three questions:
1. Except as noted, all items are otherwise stock and I was wondering if there were performance versions I should consider to replace the stock items (oil pump, etc.).
2. Should I use some sort of stacks on the Webers or a more conventional airbox?
3.What should be my expection as to performance gains?
My objective is to have a high performance street engine that maintains drivability.
BTW, this forum is great and I thank all those who contribute regularly.

[Gary Williams]

Does head work mean bigger intake valves and some port clean up? Are you having the engine balanced? If so, it sounds like your engine will be similar to my 2L motor.

I also used an aluminum flywheel and a high performance oil pump from Spruell.

The other key item you didn't mention is the ignition. In my mind, the best improvement for any older Alfa is an electronic ignition.

Your engine should make somewhere in the neighborhood of 150-160 horsepower.

[sfovc2003]

The head work included larger intake valves and port clean up. I was afraid to go to an aluminum flywheel for fear of adversly affecting drivability. A compromise is to just trim a few pounds from the stock flywheel. I would be interested to know your experience.
The shop has argued that my existing, stock ignition is fine, contrary to everthing I had thought. However, it's an easy upgrade at any time.
Thanks for the suggestion of the Spruell oil pump. I'll look into it.

[Gary Williams]

Sorry, I disagree about the stock ignition, if it involves points. Don't know when Alfa began putting electronic ignitions on their cars, but they did, and they did it for a reason.

Once an electronic ignition is set, you can drive it for years without touching it. Points need periodic adjustment and replacement. Electronic ignition will also make it easier to start the car and to deal with around town driving that can otherwise crud up the plugs.

I like the aluminum flywheel because it allows the engine to spin up very quickly. I don't find the car annoying to drive, though it does require a little more attention at slow speeds, under 25 or 30. I'm willing to give up a little driving ease in traffic and parking lots to get responsiveness and horsepower.

Can't say if the Spruell pump is a good thing or not. I never had any trouble with stock oil pumps.

[sfovc2003]

Thanks for the advice. I will go with the electronic igniion (any recommendations?). However, I'll stick with the stock flywheel. I have a Bugeye with a 1275 engine, Kent 276 cams and an aluminum flywheel and if the revs aren't way up it struggles up hills in first. I had three pounds taken off the stock flywheel of my AH 3000, but the engine isn't in the car yet.

[Gary Williams]

You might check past threads regarding ignitions. It seems everyone has his/her own favorite. I'm happy with my Centerline unit. It's the ID405.

My GTV will lug down to 15 mph in third and pull back up to speed. Doesn't seem to mind the light flywheel.

[iachella]

Talk to Dan Marvin about lightening your flywheel. He took 5 or 6 lbs off mine. I think 21 lbs is stock, the alum ones are 9 (?). So 15 lbs is reasonable. Dan will agree.

Another suggestion is to find an 86-91 Spider flywheel to lighten. Then get the light gear reduction starter to match. Now would be the time.

What distributor do you have? I have a Bosch "006" and I put a Pertronix unit on it. It is super steady and I haven't even looked at it in years. I tried a Crane before, but the shutter wheel would not stay in place. This of course could wait a while. It took me 1/2 an hour to replace.

That's all I can think of.

[sfovc2003]

Good advice. Since I had to resurface the flywheel anyway, I told the machine shop to take two pounds off. I would have taken off more, but was deathly afraid of hurting drivability. However, I'll talk to Dan Marvin and see what he says.
I see you live in Concord. I'm in Piedmont. I'll send you a private email with my email address in case you have any other thoughts.

[alfazagato]

I have an electronic ignition system installed on my SZ and 200 Spyder made by Jolley Engineering in the UK. Very good and undetectable! www.classicheads.com. No connection with the company

[Andrew]

You want to be careful lightening stock cast iron flywheels, especially for high rpm work unless you have a scatter shield. Sammy Hale in Marin is good at this, and in fact Norman might farm the work out to him? I don't think Norman has balancing facilities.

Andrew

[sfovc2003]

Thanks. Dan Marvin thought a two pound lightening would be fine. Star Machine in Berkeley is doing the resurfacing and balancing. They did my Healey engine and really know their stuff.It's a street car, so I don't expect a lot of high rpm driving.

[lowmileage]

While I know your question(s) involve the motor, if you have to do any trans work, you might consider having the gears lightened.

[sfovc2003]

I would love to, but I'm in so deep now it would cost me my marriage.

[bshorey]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sfovc2003 I would love to, but I'm in so deep now it would cost me my marriage.