Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Alcala de Henares, Spain
In a different direction - if you want to go for a higher lift cam later, it may be worth the while to check how much lift your current spring retainers can go to without touching the valve stem seals, unless you already checked that or have info from the previous owner about it. The point is that the valve spring upper seat (the "hat" thingie) and the split wedges can be filed or sanded down to give a bit more lift without them banging the seals. This depends very much on what dimension the guides are, how far down they were installed, what style stem seal you have, etc...
I went through this the last time I had the head off, and prepped it for at least 12mm lift on both intake and exhaust, although I was using 10.9 cams at the time. I later went to 12mm on the intake, and it was "plug and play" apart from the shims, because I knew I had the space above the seal, and the bucket bores were relieved for it. And I know that I can't go above 12.3mm or so without removing the head and going through the rigamarole again...
I know you've already put the head on, though, so you'll have to decide what to do. In principle, you could remove a valve spring with the head installed, using one of the factory style tools, and do the check. You need to have the valve spring out to feel contact, or to allow the valve plus hat and wedges to rest on the stem seal. By factory style tools, I'm thinking of something I've seen pictured but not in real life, a lever that pushes down on the spring "hat" from above only (as opposed to a C-clamp sort of tool), while a separate curved rod goes through the spark plug hole to hold the valve closed. This can be used with the head in place. Or perhaps the old rope trick would also work similarly, I don't know. I'm not sure if I'm being at all clear here, sorry if not...
Sorry if I just seem to be raising complications.
Alcala de Henares, Spain