Removing 1750 crank pulley nut; ideas?

**Andrew** · #1 (**permalink**) 03-23-2009, 09:32 AM

I need to remove the crank pulley nut on the 1750 in my Super to change the leaking front seal. I've tried the usual methods I can think of and have read about here, without success, and think the nut was installed with big torque by an impact wrench.

So far:
* Tried to "lock" flywheel with big pry bar jammed in ring gear teeth, and used a long cheater bar on the nut. Pry bar slipped.
* Used starter to "slap" wrench handle to the left inner fender. Torqued the motor mounts but didn't undo the nut.
* Used drill bit, then bolt, in flywheel balance hole in attempt to lock flywheel; both broke.

I would use an impact wrench, but the Craftsman 1/2" I have is too long to fit in the distance between the pulley and the front body panel. I have removed the radiator. My impact wrench is about 7" long. A wrench one or two inches shorter would work, if anyone has a suggestion.

This is a mechanical clutch trans with a 1600 flywheel, so I can't use the bolt-on factory flywheel lock I have that fits on 1750 and 2000 ring gears.

Any suggestions appreciated. Anyone have a flywheel locking device that fits where the starter goes? Or a short impact wrench?

Andrew

tomgtv6 · #2 (**permalink**) 03-23-2009, 11:27 AM

Put it in 4th gear with the wheels on the ground and a 1/2 inch breaker bar or ratchet(if you think it is strong enough) with a 3 ft pipe on it.

MidLifeCrisis · #3 (**permalink**) 03-23-2009, 04:15 PM

I just did this operation on my GTV and the Craftsman impact wrench fit in the space... weird.

Did you check for a tab washer behind the nut? Also, someone recommended to me the VW flywheel locking device, but I don't know if that's going to fit your flywheel. I've also seen "universal" locking devices online for about $30, but like most people I question anything that says it's "universal".

I had my car in gear with the wheels braced and handbrake on, that didn't work. I finally bought an impact wrench.

howieb4 · #4 (**permalink**) 03-23-2009, 06:43 PM

Is there any part of the grill that can be removed to allow you to use an extension on the wrench? I recently bought an impact wrench at Sears for $19.99 on sale. It fit on my GTV.

**George Willet** · #5 (**permalink**) 03-23-2009, 08:57 PM

Here is the method that I have had to use when all else fails, Andrew.

With the radiator removed, drill a 5/8" diameter hole in the front sheet metal in line with the crankshaft and at the same height as the front pulley nut. Insert a long one piece 1/2" extension through the hole into the socket on the nut and the apply the impact on the other end. Off comes the nut!!

You cannot use adaptors on the socket as in a 1/2" to 3/4" adaptor on a 3/4" socket as they will absorb the impacts from the wrench, same with trying to use two 1/2" extensions as the joints will negate the impacts.

**Andrew** · #6 (**permalink**) 03-24-2009, 08:02 AM

* Even with the radiator out, there is not enough room to fit a Craftsman 1/2" impact wrench (just bought at OSH for $30); it hits the sheetmetal.

* Sorry, I am not going to drill a hole in the nose of the Super.

* My next attempt will be do as Howie suggests, angling in through the grille opening, but it's an extreme angle, and George is probably right that the impact will dissipate.

After that, next try will be to unbolt the motor mounts and jack up the engine enough to get the impact wrench in there; the nose sheetmetal angles forward as it goes up, making more room.

What a hassle; this is why I hate impact wrenches for installing stuff.

Andrew

**George Willet** · #7 (**permalink**) 03-24-2009, 09:25 AM

What a hassle; this is why I hate impact wrenches for installing stuff.

Andrew[/QUOTE]

Andrew, my books show the torque on the front pully nut to be 144 foot pounds... THATS inpact wrench territory. I think under the circumstances, raising the engine is your solution. And, yes, a universal joint on the socket will dissapate the impact. Good luck. George

**Andrew** · #8 (**permalink**) 03-24-2009, 09:30 AM

Thanks George.

Weighing in at 200 lbs, I should be able to pretty readily break loose the nut leaning on a four-ft bar if it's actually torqued to 144, but I fear it's much higher. VW rear axle and flywheel nuts are in the 300+ category; to me that's impact territory.

If this were a track car I wouldn't mind putting an access hole in the nose panel, but not on a nice street car.

Andrew

figleaf11 · #9 (**permalink**) 03-24-2009, 11:09 AM

your on right track lifting enging to get a direct extension shot at it, borrow/rent a 3/4 impact with correct impact socket, use a small acetelene or bernz a matic and heat the nut slightly, don't cook it just heat enuff to expand the nut then hit it with big impact. It'll move.
Ralph

**Andrew** · #10 (**permalink**) 03-24-2009, 11:19 AM

Thanks all. I'll try this.
Andrew

velocedoc · #11 (**permalink**) 03-25-2009, 12:11 AM

Most likely you will have to lift the engine. Hey, its probably easier to just pull the darn engine and check everything over and then put it back in than to deal with the impact gun and the lack of space. Have you tried a 1/2" universal on the socket to see if that will help with getting the impact gun in there. Just try to make it as straight as you can when applying torque. Hopefully someone didn't use Locktite!

**Andrew** · #12 (**permalink**) 03-25-2009, 07:18 AM

To use a universal joint through the grille without lifting the engine would put the extension at about a 60-degree angle. I think not likely to work.

Norman Racing is cutting a 1 1/2" socket in half for me in an attempt to shorten the socket/impact wrench combo enough to. We'll see.

Andrew

howieb4 · #13 (**permalink**) 03-25-2009, 08:53 AM

Andrew, I know this is the sin of all sins, but I just used a standard 1 1/2" socket with my impact wrench. I was lucky and it worked with breaking. I did baby it as I was removing the nut. I would not of had the clearance if I had to use a standard impact socket. It was a Craftsman socket(hint).
It sounds like the Incredible Hulk tightened it originally so you may not have the same luck as I.

**Andrew** · #14 (**permalink**) 03-25-2009, 09:00 AM

Thanks, that's why I'm having my Matco socket cut as short as possible and still bite. Also, GTVs have a lot more horizontal clearance in front of the engine than Giulia sedans and a bigger grille opening. I should get the trimmed-down socket today and we'll see if it fits. Gorilla-torquing is a sin, along with cross-threading, and all POs go to that special purgatory.

Andrew

**Andrew** · #15 (**permalink**) 03-29-2009, 12:48 PM

Still no luck. NRG did a beautiful job trimming down the socket, so it and the air wrench fit in the available space. More attempts this week, with breaker bar and big sledge, then today I went over to Luigi's, who has a big compressor, and we wailed on it for a half hour with a couple different air wrenches and the Matco socket, all to no avail. It's really on there. We applied heat, penetrant, tried tightening and then loosening, all no good. So for now I'm just putting it back together and driving it.

Andrew