123ignition distributor - 15000 miles road test - Page 5 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #61 of 212 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 08:28 AM
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I spoke to MSD today and the tech suggested that adding the MSD 6 plus may have leaned out the mixture from a 6x hotter spark, so the car might run differently.

When y'all added yours, did you need to retune because the engine was running differently?

I want the car to look as original as possible and I was finding it was spitting using just the mechanical fuel pump. Over the years the people I've respected have all told me to get rid of it.

This week I went down and purchased a new metal main fuel line, and added a Racor 120 between the tank and the mechanical pump. There are three filter sizes, and the tech at RACOR said use the 10 micron. I saw a bit of rust, not much, but there anyway, from the tank and was using an extra inline filter until I got around to installing the RACOR. I also added a low pressure electric pump 1-4 pounds next to my Racor. The diaphragm neoprene kit from Geoffrey Ohland for my FISPA FRB111 is installed, as well as Cavis green tubing so the engine bay looks original. The car seems to idle better with the electric pump in back, along with the mechanical. I installed the electric pump on a very thick piece of horse stall mat and it is neat, cheap and quiet. With the relatively large Racor I can see any contamination in the bottom bowl and can drain the bowl from time to time. I like the idea of a filter before the mechanical pump. I understand why Alfa put the FISPA after the mechanical pump because it also serves as a pressure regulator. I never liked the idea of stuff from the fuel tank having a chance to get into the mechanical pump.

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post #62 of 212 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 08:35 AM
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BTW, never install a CARTER P4070, they are noisy enough to hear from Texas to Washington. I used the lowest pressure Facet.
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post #63 of 212 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 09:34 AM
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The new metal gas line, Racor and various little brass fittings, came to around $150. The Facet is mounted on 3/4 horse stall rubber (felt it would be better than those little rubber round isolators) and the Racor is on a block of black UHMW from the Carter misadventure (install it all, the Carter, and find out how loud it is, major time setback and consumption! Learn from my mistake, Racetep didn't mention how loud the Carter p4070 is)

The Cavis was $41!!!!.

what price fashion (proper green Cavis) and hobbies!

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post #64 of 212 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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I ran a Carter P4070 for a couple of years. I double isolated it with two sets of rubber bushes and it was still noisy. But it is a darned good pump - certainly better than the Facet that I now have installed.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
85 GTV6 3L
76 Suzuki GT500

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post #65 of 212 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 10:06 AM
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Trying to understand how a mechanical and electric pump putting out the same pressure can make your car idle better.........

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'67 GTV
'68 Giulia Super

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post #66 of 212 (permalink) Old 04-11-2013, 06:04 PM
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>>>I recommend the 123ignition distributor to anyone who wants to get away from the vagaries of centrifugal advance mechanisms. It is a big improvement on the Shankle/Marelliplex that I had before.<<<

Ed, on your MSD/123/Blaster set up...I'm assuming you are using the MSD white trigger wire (vs the mag pickup plug) joined to the 123 red wire and ign switched 12 volt green (or green/black) wires?? Thanks!

Montie
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post #67 of 212 (permalink) Old 04-11-2013, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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The white wire from the MSD connects to the black wire from the 123. The thin red wire from the MSD connects to the red wire of the 123 and also to the 12 volt wire from the ignition switch - green on my car. Also, the wire to the Alfa electronic tach connects to the white wire from the MSD.

Who said that a picture is worth a thousand words? Unfortunately I am not able to post my hand drawn diagram.

Ed Prytherch
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76 Suzuki GT500

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #68 of 212 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
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The white wire from the MSD connects to the black wire from the 123. The thin red wire from the MSD connects to the red wire of the 123 and also to the 12 volt wire from the ignition switch - green on my car. Also, the wire to the Alfa electronic tach connects to the white wire from the MSD.

Who said that a picture is worth a thousand words? Unfortunately I am not able to post my hand drawn diagram.
Thanks a bunch! I assume for the tack that you meant the gray MSD wire (not white)? I'm using the blaster unit (now called "street fire") Does not matter with my mechanical tack anyway as it won't be hooked up to anything.

Montie
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post #69 of 212 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 06:03 AM Thread Starter
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My notes say the white wire from the MSD connects to both the black wire from the 123 and the pale colored wire from the tach. It is the same as the Pertronix hook-up that is in the MSD manual.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
85 GTV6 3L
76 Suzuki GT500

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #70 of 212 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 06:17 AM
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My notes say the white wire from the MSD connects to both the black wire from the 123 and the pale colored wire from the tach. It is the same as the Pertronix hook-up that is in the MSD manual.
Just checked the MSD website and downloaded the diagrams...pertronix hook up defininately indicates gray for tach signal...change from older units maybe?

Digital 6A Ignition Control - 6201 (hit the instructions tab for pdf)

Montie
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post #71 of 212 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 06:38 AM Thread Starter
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That is not how mine is wired. It is as I have explained in the above posts. It works!

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
85 GTV6 3L
76 Suzuki GT500

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #72 of 212 (permalink) Old 04-16-2013, 04:42 PM
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I recently purchased and installed the programmable 123 on my '65 Spider Veloce. Very nice. Looks fairly stock and performs as advertised.

Have a long way to go in determining the best curve. First change was to delay the start of advance until 100 rpm above idle which results in a nice steady idle. Second change was to tone down the (stock) advance to stop it from pinging. Its much better, but I'm not there yet. Ultimately want to see if I can get the vacuum adance to play nice with the Webers for better drivability and economy.

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post #73 of 212 (permalink) Old 04-16-2013, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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The Bosch ....045 curve has a short flat section around 600 - 1000 rpm which sets the idle rpm. You could have a negative slope section there with your programmable. A low value of static advance may result in better hot starting compared with a curve that is flat from zero to 1000 rpm.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
85 GTV6 3L
76 Suzuki GT500

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #74 of 212 (permalink) Old 05-23-2013, 07:32 PM
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101 Alfa Mike, or anyone, when first setting up the electronic/programmable 123, instructions it says to turn the distributer until you can 'just' see the LED. For now, but not started, I have just a tiny sliver showing.

This is on a client's '66 1600 GTV. I sourced it from Alfaholics and they downloaded eight programs before shipping. However, what if the distributor isn't set 'quite right'?

Meaning my client might try all of the advance curves and none are quite right for him. So should he then start tweaking the distributor, or is it 'as good as it gets with a sliver of light showing? Yes of course, going through this on a 'rolling road' (Euro speak) would be best.

You did read that the tube for 'advance' actually retards?

Biba

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post #75 of 212 (permalink) Old 06-28-2013, 01:34 PM
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123 Programable Install

I just installed the "123 programmable" distributor. I installed the blue wire to the + terminal of the coil going through a grounded "lighted" switch. With the switch light off the led in the distributor lights up and I can start the car however, when I activate the switch (and the switch lights up) to change to the other downloaded advance curve the car dies. In addition the led does not light when the switch is in this position. Have I wired the distributor incorrectly or is there a problem with the distributor? Anyone else have this problem?

-John
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