123ignition distributor - 15000 miles road test - Page 3 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #31 of 240 (permalink) Old 08-26-2012, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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I just pulled the cap and rotor on mine and they are in fine condition. They have done 24,000 miles.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
85 GTV6 3L
76 Suzuki GT500

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #32 of 240 (permalink) Old 08-26-2012, 02:50 PM
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Interesting, thanks for checking. I guess I'll just have to keep an eye on mine from time to time. As I said, the carbon cleans off pretty easily so not a big deal.
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andrew

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post #33 of 240 (permalink) Old 08-26-2012, 04:05 PM
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After seeing your post I took a look at the rotor and cap interior of my 2L. Yikes! Not sure what's going on. The rotor plastic has significant melting near the contact tip. It also appears that a hole has melted through the rotor arm through to the bottom. (see pics) Also attached are photos of the MSD 6AL, FireBall PS91.

I'm convinced this must have occurred during a 'little' incident before Dick & Bill at Engine Machine Services rebuilt it. A certain someone who shall remain nameless wound out the motor, fried the pistons and shattered the rings. After leaving the car by the side of the road, they left me a message telling me to where to find it and to come and get it. Well, yeah, that was an interesting discussion.

Anyway, do any of the Alfitsi community know if this setup in the photos is okay?

As always, thanks for any advice and suggestions you may have concerning the engine, that is.

Mike
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post #34 of 240 (permalink) Old 08-27-2012, 06:58 AM
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I have had this happen on both a Bosch and Merelli rotor. Some of them have resisters in them which heat up and cause the problem. You need to make sure you get older style rotors without the resisters. You can visually tell by the epoxy like grove in the top. When I've ordered new ones from International I have the sales rep open the box and look at the rotor to verify.

Tom
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post #35 of 240 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 02:54 PM
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123 rotor position

I"m gong on the basis that this thread is pretty much the repository for 123 info. If not, I apologize.

I want to get the rotor positioned reasonably accurately for now. I'm aware that the light will come on when it is positioned correctly once all is 'ready to go'.

On my MirelliPlex, I've found that the spark comes on a fair amount After the lobe passes the pick-up.

Yes, this has a rotor so I'm not sure if it is more like analog (just before), or after as on my MirelliPlex, or...?

As you can see, the rotor is positioned almost exactly between two distributor cap contacts. So which way to rotate the body to at least get it closer to the correct spot for the 123?
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post #36 of 240 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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If you set the 123 by static timing then first select the curve that you want. Then see what the static timing is for that curve. Then rotate your engine to that timing point. Then rotate the 123 dizzy until the light just turns on. It is that simple. You should then have no trouble getting your motor to run. Then fine tune the dizzy to get the max advance that you want at the appropriate rpm.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
85 GTV6 3L
76 Suzuki GT500

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #37 of 240 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 12:19 PM
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Ed thanks. I'd just finished putting on the ends of a set of ignition wires and wanted to install them. Of course not a big deal to switch them around later. My big concern though is if the light comes on but it turns out to be for #3 rather than #1. Since my MirelliPlex fires well after, I'm gun-shy of most likely starting out with a Very iffy position for the rotor.

Also my first read of the instructions indicates I need a PC laptop to set it up. How this works with the wires that come with the distributor is beyond me (and I don't have a PC laptop), but Max at Alfaholics programmed in their own special program, in addition to the ones that come with it.

If this was an analog distributor, it would be no problem.

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post #38 of 240 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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I don't have any experience with the programmable model. Mine has a 16 position switch to select the curves. The light is not associated with any particular cylinder - just like points. No need to over-analyze it.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
85 GTV6 3L
76 Suzuki GT500

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #39 of 240 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 02:38 PM
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Ed, I don't mean to sound ungrateful, but are you saying that if I try to start the car with the timing marks on #3 there won't be any problems starting it?

What I'd really like is that if someone has one of these and by chance the engine/pulley has stopped in roughly the region of the idle advance mark, pop off the distributor cap, preferably take a photo, or give me a pretty accurate o'clock time (for instance - 3:30) as to where the forward edge of the rotor is. You might even be a bit surprised if you've not done this before.

All I know now is that I've got to either turn the distributor body a fair amount clockwise or counterclockwise.

Again...an Alfa with an analog distributer, turn on the ignition switch, either put the car in 5th, and roll it, or turn the engine at the crank pulley until the points spark, then adjust 'as required'.

I've never gotten my MirelliPlex - to repeat which fires After the lobe has passed #1 (for instance) - to spark and assume it won't on the 123, but might well be wrong.

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post #40 of 240 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Just set it at around TDC on the crank pulley like you would set points. It is no different.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
85 GTV6 3L
76 Suzuki GT500

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #41 of 240 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 05:21 PM
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Okay, I'll pretend it is just like analog distributors.

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post #42 of 240 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 06:20 PM
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I've had mine for about a year now, and it still runs great. I replaced a worn out Bosch on a 1600, and I have it set on the stock Bosch curve. If I pull the distributor with the bracket to change the curve would I have to retime the distributor? I've only had it out once when I rebuilt the motor, so I don't recall if I can change the curve with the bracket attached. Just trying to use others experiences here before I invest a few hours for the same results.
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post #43 of 240 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
so I don't recall if I can change the curve with the bracket attached
I think that you can. There is a plug in the base that you unscrew with an Allen wrench to access the switch. You will need good light and eyesight or a magnifying glass to set the switch.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
85 GTV6 3L
76 Suzuki GT500

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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post #44 of 240 (permalink) Old 10-30-2012, 02:33 AM
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Thanks Ed. Does the timing have to be reset after you change the setting?
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post #45 of 240 (permalink) Old 10-30-2012, 03:32 AM Thread Starter
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When you select a timing curve you set the static timing so that the led just comes on when the engine at at the static timing point for that curve. So if you switch to a curve that has a different static timing point then you will have to adjust the distributor.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
85 GTV6 3L
76 Suzuki GT500

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
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