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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2006, 09:09 AM
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It was a mechanic from another well-known (in germany...) VW/Audi tuner ( http://www.hohenester-sport.de/ ) who did this welding job after work - FOR FREE !
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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2006, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msiert

There is some room in front of the stick shift. I still need to get over and up behind the heater blower to go out the opening that the old harness is going through. The problem might be connecting the lap top to the ECU with it being tucked deep under the dash. I need to confirm the lenght of the new harness if it is long enough then putting it in the same spot as the old ECU might be the best place.
would be easy to put a 3" duct to an open area behind the grill.

Murray
Murray,

There is WAY too much heat in that location. The ECU you buy should have automotive grade components that will withstand more heat and vibration that most electronics but that doesn't mean indestructable. Under the dash on the passenger side is probably the best location for it. Leave the laptop cord plugged in (like I do) and coil it up and unwind it when you need it.

Something I've learned over the years of doing this. Once the car is running well, quit f*cking with it. Resist the tempation to tune and retune. Most times I only made things worse. Once you get a good level of tune you probably shouldn't plug the laptop in any more than a few times a year.

Just my $.02.

-Peter
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2006, 09:43 AM
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Right, i“m working as construction engineer (or civil engineer, don“t know how you call it right in the US). So the things i plan and build are usually much bigger than engines... houses !

Thomas
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2006, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msiert
Hi Peter,

The operating temp of the new ecu is -40 c to t85 c the high temp is what I really care about and that is only 180 f which seems high but really is not. I hope there is enough harness to put the ecu behind the passager seat under the rear deck. When I drive with the top down I have the rear boot on so no direct sun light will not hit the rear deck. Here in NE it's not uncommon to have 100 degree day's in the summer.

Is it a no no to splice the harness lines to gain lenght I have heard you need to go up one size in wire if your going to do that at least that is what they say with the MSD wiring. While I am on the MSD the blaster coils come with 2' of cord but I will need to have a little of 3' to route around the engine bay for the location I want the box in. Do you see any problems with that?

Thanks for the heads up on not playing with it after it's tuned. I can see my self wanting to do that.

Murray
I like making harnesses. I generally go 1 gauge above on all the wires just in case. Making harnesses is a time comsuming practice but I find something therapudic about it. If you don't want to do that, buy a harness that's the right length. I think splicing is just asking for trouble. Some other part to fail and cause a weird problem you can't figure out.

An anecdote: when working on Bonnie, the Salt Flat Spider, there was a weird problem that the car wouldn't start. Checked everything again and again. All the sensors etc. One of the engineers replaced the main power wire with a larger gauge and it fired right up. Turns out the low power condition caused the sw to do something funky. Although the unit powered up and showed readings (albeit incorrect, IIRC) on the laptop.

Like any Alfa, most of your problems will be in the installation. Many L-Jetronic problems are due to bad connections or bad wires. Don't underestimate the investment in doing it right. You'll save a lot of time later trying to figure out weird problems. Splicing wires together falls into this category IMO.

Again my $.02.

-Peter
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2006, 10:09 AM
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Hi Murray, very funny, let“s work togehter We need work at the moment...
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2006, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nda9h
Back from welding...
Do you have a servoed brakes? How are you going to connect them to the manifold?

Nice welding! It looks great!
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Last edited by jpv; 02-16-2006 at 11:44 AM.
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2006, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpv
Do you have a servoed brakes? How are you going to connect them to the manifold?
Yes, i do have servoed brakes, either i connect it to the new manifold or i disconnect the servo because i have a set of performatek calipers with a bigger main brake cylinder installed, so this would also work.

@murray: nice house; when i have to leave germany in a hurry, i“ll contact you...

Thomas
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2006, 05:52 AM
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Beautiful

Hi Murray
That is a beautiful piece of engineering. And so damn clean too!
Kent cams?
Simon
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2006, 06:05 AM
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Hi Murray,

very nice work, but still a lot to do fit the VVT solenoids.

Thomas
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2006, 11:06 AM
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Hi,

I've just registered. I'm french, sorry for my poor english.
I've been reading the suspension threads for the last 2 monthes but never been looking in this chapter. And I was wrong.

Where are you with the dual VVT system ?

I've been thinking about a dual VVT system for last 2 years. I've been waiting to have all the parts I need to build a compressed (Eaton) 2L TS engine. Now I have all the parts but probably won't start the work before 2007 (still a Mini 1000 and the 75TS suspension to build).
Two years ago I added a camshaft intake angular position sensor on my 75TS because I needed it for another project.
I've read lots of papers about modern VVT and their control .
I tried to control the VVT position in a continious way by finely positioning the original VVT control 'finger' (which is pushed by the coil), but failed. The system has a very binary operation and it stucks in one or another position. The oil valve should be modified at least by driling several smaller holes at different positions. Modern VVT systems have better oil valve designs which allow more precise control (which is still very dependent on the oil pressure and temperature).
However I believe there is a cheaper and simpler solution. I believe it's possible to restrict the cam angular modification by inserting shims inside the VVT device. Alfa made 30 degree shift on all 1.6/1.8 and 2.0TS engines (I have 4 devices from all these engines, they are compatible). One of both positions is only usable at idle or at very light loads, because the IVC is 90 degrees.
With a 15 degrees shift it would become possible to use both positions at higher loads, for example a 45 and 60 degrees IVC.

A dual VVT system creates new problems as the OFF VVT position is not good for the exhaust side, the VVT should be switched ON it during idle. That could be a problem during the startup.
Another problem comes from the twin spark system, as on TS engines one of distributors is on the exhaust camshaft.
And I believe that even original cams are too wide for a dual system, the cams should be nearer but probably with sharper ramps. Yours seem to be rather 'race' typed.
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 05-10-2006, 02:52 AM
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So the shim principle works.
I believe shifting 2-3 degrees would not improve much things. For example on Toyota and BMW VVT systems the shift can be of 40-60 degrees. Of course they also have the variable valve lift, so 60 degrees would be too huge for us.
On TS engines the OFF position (90 degrees IVC) is in fact used during idle in order to lower the overlap, otherwise it would be impossible to achieve the 1.5-2% CO level. It's also used at very low loads under 1500-2000RPM (I made lots of logs). The effective CR is very low, but at idle it can be compensated with a greater opened idle activator to get the same effective CR.
Another way to use the intake VVT is to adjust the effective CR. For example if I take a regular 10:1 CR engine, I could not use a 700mBar forced induction. By shifting ahead the IVC I can lower the effective CR and also decrease the overlap. So I get a torquey engine while the induction is turned off (good mileage at low loads), and a good power level.
With a dual system we could do what Ford/GM do on their last engines, both cams shift in the same direction. The EVO can be retarded to increase the expansion work. But I think if a more than 5-10 degrees shift is used on exhaust the exhaust cam timing must be shorter than the stock 300 degrees one.
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2006, 07:08 PM
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Cool Carbon fiber

Sweet carbon fiber air box Murray.
It looks like its really coming together. Did you get the Autronic self-training chip or are you going to run it on the dyno?
Please more pics!
All my best

Simon
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Old 06-26-2006, 07:39 PM
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Rats

Thats a pisser. But hopefully not for long.

I have to say your work has been an inspiration. I've been pricing TWM pieces (~$2500), head work (~$1500), Megasquirt (~$600) or Autronic ($2-3000) and wondering how I can slip that under the wifes radar screen.

Tough when I've just spent $4000 on a lightened gears, a reconditioned box, new Sachs clutch and chassis stiffener, amongst others !!

Keep up the great work
Simon
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2006, 05:55 PM
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$490, that's not bad. Remember that generic performance chips are around $300. So something custom tuned at this price is reasonable and further more it's done for all throttle positions.
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2007, 05:56 AM
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Hallo,
why did this discussion stopped, everybody finished his projects?

Thomas,
How was Your success how many hp did You made with Your changes?
Iam planning a single TBS conversion with original Bosch Motronic.
This shouldn“t be aproblem for me. as I am working professionaly with the Bosch ECU“s.
The only problem is the time for this project.
Using the original Manifold, cutting it down an welding in new intake tracts, with a straight angle to the ports putting it together with BMW 45 TBS out of a 2 Cylinder motor bike will make this conversion rather siple and cheap. Using the original wiring harness from 155 alfa with ditributorless dualcoil firing for two cylinders at the same time is possible. The main work is to do the programming of the complete system, as there is no use of the original air mass measuring unit. inspite this is done with throttle angle position sensor and therfore the complete load detection is different and the map adressing information for all the Ignition and injection maps and all the other corrections which are calculated via load information. First of all this change should be done in my 75TS which could be programmed during daily driving. At the and all this stuff with uprated engine should be converted into my Alfa 2000Gam Replica.
As of course it is easy to use the VVT system, i need special VVT camshafts to be fabricated.
The idea with the shimming to change the angle of valve advance is interesting, so big camshaft durations with reduced overlap for slower engine speeds could be adjusted to get a wider useful power curve. Intake valves out of the US beetle sceene ar possible to use up to 48mm for cheap money too.
I hope to finish my Triumph next Year to be able to go on with my GTAM project.
Hope that the discussion will start again.

Hagen
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