an invitation for aftermarket EFI people.. - Page 3

jpv · #31 (**permalink**) 09-17-2005, 01:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nicke

A closed loop system dosen't need a knock sensor, what the knock sensor does is affect timing.

turbolarespider · #32 (**permalink**) 09-17-2005, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpv

A closed loop system enables a lean cruise mode right? For that the ECU uses the O2 sensor to analise the mixture. If the mixture becomes too lean, it is the knock sensor job to inform the ECU of the knock or pinking.

Does the ECU have a lower limit on the mixture so the knock sensor won't be needed?

75evo · #33 (**permalink**) 09-17-2005, 11:01 PM

1. Maybe charge time. But this is rarely ever a problem, probably not a problem at all. I think the advantage is less mechanical parts failing (as you can eliminate the dissy) when you have 4 coils. Maybe if your EFI is sophisticaed enough, with 4 coils you can fine tune each coil's ignition advance (assuming your ECU has 4 seperate ignition channels). But I doubt you will ever get into that.

2. I talked to Beninca, he says for his Alfetta GT 2.0 TS, he disables the VVT since the intake cam is too aggressive.

www.beninca.com.au

slyalfa · #34 (**permalink**) 09-18-2005, 12:41 AM

you can also go wasted spark like I did here. (woo hoo I drove it for the first time in like 10years 20miles so far. breaking in time)

This is 2 coils it fires a spark on 2 plugs at the same time. so you wire it so the wasted side is at the start if the induction side. so the cylnder PSI is very low the voltage to jump the spark is very low compared to the firing side so not much is wasted.

This is a acell coil pack for fords so both coils come together.
I have one coil feeding cyl 1and 4 and the 2nd coil feeding 2 and 3

This coil pack is feed with 3 wires. one common that you tie to power. and one wire for each coil

you can see the old dizzy is still there. I took out the car for the very first time today so I threw in the old coil and wires in the trunk just in case. I need to make a cover to seal the hole where the dizzy goes. so the dizzy stays in there for now. to keep the oil sealed

nda9h · #35 (**permalink**) 09-18-2005, 06:35 AM

i also think that the only advantage of 2/4 coils is the loss of mechanical parts.
I am currently building a 75-TS engine for my GTV, and we will also not use the VVT because of the modified cams. But my ECU could manage a VVT as it has several outputs that can be programmed user-defined.

Thomas

DriverJon · #36 (**permalink**) 09-22-2005, 12:47 AM

As I recall.. the VVT adjusts at 1650 rpm. But look it up from some reputable source.

The whole idea of the thing was more to provide good emissions at low RPMs, (they test higher than that now..) than to provide a performance tune.

But, if you successfully come up with a way to do it right for performance, many will the glasses raised to your name!! ;-)

Jon
77 Spider

nda9h · #37 (**permalink**) 09-22-2005, 01:30 AM

Just measure the voltage that comes on the 2 cables at the VVT (disconnect the VVT for doing that). So you see the RPM when the ECU switches it on / off.

Thomas

**John M** · #38 (**permalink**) 09-22-2005, 08:37 AM

Hey Murray:

A little info on the VVT

From my experimenting yesterday......it comes on based on throttle position. If you rev easy...it won't come on at all....even past 5k rpm. If you punch the throttle, it comes on immediately and stays on until you let off the throttle. The VVT hits too quick to measure the exact point rpm wise......at least with my DMM.......really almost instantaneous from my experimenting. And TPS wise....seems more like around 1/2 throttle....maybe even a little lower....where it kicks in.

This makes sense as this thing is not on just cruising down the road at 80 MPH. I think you really feel its effect in stock format due to the cam profile kicking in around 3000 rpm.

So to sum up what I found...you drop the hammer...the VVT kicks in until you let up.
If you pull off easy....the VVT doesn't kick on at all.

Anyone care to replicate my results?

Best Regards,
John M

brew_alfa · #39 (**permalink**) 10-29-2005, 05:49 AM

Gentlemen,
I'm really enjoying this thread. I am in the planning and investigation stage for converting my weber carburated 1750 Berlina to electronic injection, and ignition. I'm definitely learning a lot here, mostly that I have a lot to learn. I am interested in the injection hardware that you guys are using, specifically, what throttle bodies, and injectors are being used? Do I need an aftermarket throttle body, one from an l-jet car, or can a spica throttle body be used?
Thanks for all the help already, and all that is surely to come on the ecu front.

casey

pentamax · #40 (**permalink**) 10-29-2005, 07:20 PM

Great thread guys!

Couple things I'd like to share, from previous expirience.
Megasquirt is a totally standalone ecu, will do spark/fuel and a lot more. Current limitation is that it only has 2 x spark and 2 x injector drivers. It will control VVT, and it can even run WBo2 target mode..meaning it will take readings and modify the base map on the fly to suit a chosen afr.
The other thing is the ITB's. Over here in Oz its hard to get a set for less than $1000, but webbers are not exactly expensive, for a stuffed set. All that's needed is injector bosses to be welded onto the webber bodies.

slyalfa · #41 (**permalink**) 10-30-2005, 11:07 PM

ITB's easy and cheap go to ebay and search Throttle Bodies
you will see a bunch of bike ITB show up they work great and have all the parts needed

some are super large
smallest are the gsxr 750 itb, middle 49.9mm inlet gsxr 1000 itbs, biggest gsxr 1300 itbs (hayabusa)

pick the size you want

msiert how much power do you think you will make? seems like kinda big unless a lot of boost is going to be added. but the bosh pump is good but the next step up is a bosh out of a CIS car they seem to be the best. as for the fuel pressure regulator unless the new injectors need a different rating I think it will work.
changing the PSI will affect the spary. also there is a different injector for a 2 valve vs a 1 valve if you get the wrong type it will not work very well. they should spray on to the hot valve so a 1valve type has one spray. a 2valve type sprays in a V to hit the 2 valves.

turbolarespider · #42 (**permalink**) 10-31-2005, 05:43 AM

Murray
I seriously doubt you need a bigger pump. For our turbo car, we used the original SPICA pump, and it was more than up to the task.

Most pumps are rather oversized anyway.

Eric

P.Webb · #43 (**permalink**) 11-14-2005, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pentamax

Great thread guys!

Couple things I'd like to share, from previous expirience.
Megasquirt is a totally standalone ecu, will do spark/fuel and a lot more. Current limitation is that it only has 2 x spark and 2 x injector drivers. It will control VVT, and it can even run WBo2 target mode..meaning it will take readings and modify the base map on the fly to suit a chosen afr.
The other thing is the ITB's. Over here in Oz its hard to get a set for less than $1000, but webbers are not exactly expensive, for a stuffed set. All that's needed is injector bosses to be welded onto the webber bodies.

junglejustice · #44 (**permalink**) 12-08-2005, 05:17 PM

I just ran into this thread today and did notice that there were some questions regarding stand-alone systems. While the Autronic setups and MS modified L-Jet setups that some run here are very good, I did want to mention than my friends down in South Africa have a neat and very affordable stand-alone engine management system available that is both affordable, complete, flexible and were effective...

I run the Standard version on my street Milano Verde 3.0 V6 12 valve with the stock coil (coil fire-direct) straight from the Hal-sender inside the stock dizzy, as well as the Pro version with Mitsubishi coil-packs and a 60 minus 2 trigger wheel on the crank pulley and a Bosch crank angle senor...

A friend of mine runs his T-Spark 2.0 4-banger turbo-charge Giulietta on GoTech as do most of the big-bore V6 conversions that I have been involved in...

I did bring a few extra sets (with 4 cylinder and V6 wire looms) back with me on this last trip to SA...

Also, down at Group 2 we are in the process of installing the Redline/Webber EFI conversion with their throttle bodies on Joe (G2 owner's) '74 GTV...

GoTech also sells individual throttle bodies (as does Dawie at Glenwood - like the ones that Nick purchased...)

I think that this conversion makes a great deal of sense as many of the older SPICA setup are again and new Webbers are pretty expensive (1800 plus USD) for the conversion kit...

**ghnl** · #45 (**permalink**) 12-12-2005, 04:54 PM

Any one have any info about or interest in a 'SDS' (Simple Digital Systems) aftermarket FI system?

I recently bought a non-running '84 Spider. The PO had installed a set of high lift cams and this SDS FI system. The story is he found the cams too much for a street car and, in the process of removing them, he dropped a nut down into the sump and rather than pull the motor or remove the sump to retrieve it, he lost interest so it sat unused. When he had to move a couple of years later, he decided to sell the car rather than haul it from MA to FL.

The PO had saved the original Bosch L-jet FI system and my plan is to rebuild the engine and re-install the original cams/FI system.

Eric