#376 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2009, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant View Post
Here's the F20c in an ae86, a car that weighs about 50lbs more than your car once it is put back together. Are you excited for this kind of speed or what??



These corollas have a solid axle like the 105's, but have a pan-hard from the factory. I'm hoping your diff will be OK too. The corollas need their's changed out when using the Honda engine.
Why was the radio on so loud when getting in some seat time?
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  #377 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2009, 03:44 PM
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Kevin,
Did you try Industrial Metal Supply: Industrial Metal Supply Co. ?
They are in the LA area and should have what you need. Here is a list of their chrom moly: Industrial Metal Supply Co. - Chromoly
Jes
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  #378 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2009, 05:19 PM
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Kevin, let me know if you need any more of the 3/4" tubing ends. I picked some (a couple?) up for a project from an offroad racing place a couple years ago, but never used them.

Erik
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  #379 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2009, 09:14 PM
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Jes, Thanks, I will call them on Monday, as their website only
shows 1-5/8 in 0.120" wall thickness.

Erik, thanks for the offer, I may need some, as I tend to have a
few screw ups during my builds
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  #380 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2009, 09:55 PM
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grant great vid... that looks like PIR?

i absolutely love the F20C motor and the 9K redline

thanks for posting...
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  #381 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2009, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Keven View Post
Jes, Thanks, I will call them on Monday, as their website only
shows 1-5/8 in 0.120" wall thickness.
Keven, I don't know if the prices are competitive with what you might find locally. But Aircraft Spruce has an extensive selection of 4130 tubing. It might not be much more expensive to just have everything shipped to you.

Erik
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  #382 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2009, 08:47 AM
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Do u really need it?

Kevin as far as i know this is gonna be basically more of a street car right?
Using a roll cage with no helmet etc can have a reverse effect on safety, since this car will not be 100% track car why put on it all this weight? the bracing on the 105 roof from the factory is well enough i think, not to mention you kind of loose the rear seat.
Even in the most horrible 105 crashes the roof didn't seem to deform much
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  #383 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2009, 10:03 AM
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Nice, almost 170 to the wheels!
And it even almost sounds stock(from my end of cyberspace).
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  #384 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2009, 10:06 AM
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Keven, you didn't mention a cross-brace in your post? I assume you have plans for one on the main hoop? Also, I'm curious where you plan to extend the forward braces? They will be critical to the stiffening you are trying to achieve.

Erik


Quote:
Originally Posted by Keven View Post
I plan on having the cage be removable, so that I can have it
powder coated, and then bolt it back in after painting the car.

While, the goal is not to make the cage FIA compliant, as to do
this the rear sea would be unusable. It will be a street cage
to add stiffness, and a bit of extra safety in the unlikely event
of a crash or roll over. That said it will be bolted thru the frame
with 3/16" steel plates, and the three pieces : 1) Main Loop,
2) Front arms & 3) Rear arms will be bolted together using solid
3/4 inch rod ends, and two 3/16" tabs. The rod ends will be
pinned thru the tabs. The rod ends will connect to the 4130
tubes via chrome moly rod ends welded into the tubes. This
is some very hefty hardware, and almost negates any weight
savings by using 4130 tubing versusu mild steen DOM tube!
But I think it will be bulletproof, and look really cool once installed.
Thoughts, concerns or comments welcome

Here a few pics of the rod end assembly...
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  #385 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2009, 07:47 PM
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Erik,

I am building a 6 point roll cage. The front loop will attach to
the main rails (where the doors close onto, as this seems to be
the beefist part of the frame. The center loop or the actual roll
bar in the center will be attached to the floor under the rear seat.
I plan on having the rear seat still usable, as the roll bar will
be pretty snug against the side window. The rear loop will be
attached thru the rear shelf into the trunk, and onto the rear
wheel arches. There will be a tube that attaches the front
bars across the roof near the front windshield, and there will
be another tube that attaches to the two rear bats and it will
be above the rear shelf close to the roof by the rear windscreen.
I will try to post a drawing when I finish one

I am not really worried about rolling over, but in the US we have
a lot of accidents where a large SUV goes over the car (such as
a low sports car) and crushes in the roof, and the passengers.
I have actually seen this on the freeway before
I am thinking of adding a brace inside the doors as well for side
impact protection. Might be overkill for a street car, but if you
saw how these soccer moms drive their huge SUV's in LA, you
would probably want a roll cage to
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  #386 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2009, 06:18 AM
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Keven, sounds like you have it figured out. Do post a sketch when you get a chance. As for the soccer moms in SUV's, they are the same everywhere! I won't drive my Giulietta Spider in traffic for that very reason.

As for side intrusion, your GTV should have door beams that help some. Putting good door bars on a street cage is very difficult to do without crowding the driver.

Erik
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  #387 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2009, 08:38 AM
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Erik,

Sorry to hear you have the same SUV problems as
in the US. Unfortunately we (Americans) created
this problem, and globalized it with some really
bad cool/chick image of SUV ownership advertising.

I was thining of welding in some door beams inside the
doors, and not on the roll bar itself. I will post a schetch
soon. Thanks for all the good advice.
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  #388 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2009, 11:39 AM
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Here's a rough sketch of the roll cage design.
Attached Images
 
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  #389 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2009, 11:02 PM
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Hmmm, nothing saves you from every eventuality.

The best bit is to improve your defensive driving techniques. Riding a m/c to work and back every single day is how I work on that ...

Modern cars don't crash that much better than a 105 series, unless you believe the hype, but in the end if you have a really big one, you are in Gods hand ... thus keep it on the tarmack and away from others by lane positioning, etc. ... and where possible let the soccer mums go. Yep I now occassionally pull over and just let people pass, must be getting old.
Pete
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Last edited by PSk; 01-21-2009 at 11:05 PM.
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  #390 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2009, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keven View Post
Erik, Sorry to hear you have the same SUV problems asin the US. Unfortunately we (Americans) created
this problem, and globalized it with some really
bad cool/chick image of SUV ownership advertising.

I was thining of welding in some door beams inside the
doors, and not on the roll bar itself. I will post a schetch
soon. Thanks for all the good advice.
Keven, don't let the Scandinavian name fool you. I'm also in the U.S. As for the door beams, your car should already have them. They are actually pretty stout!

Erik
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