GTV-S2000 (warning not for the Alfa purist)

[Nipper]

Looking good, it's always the smaller jobs that tend to slow a project down. Looking forward to more progress. Keep it up

[Seinista]

looks REAL nice. Tip: do not use normal brake lines, but have everything custom made in Goodridge hose. I've found it won't even set you back much more, and it will be so much easier!
Rik

[Keven]

Thanks guys, yes the small details are always troublesome!

I am using Earls stainless braided lines, with Earls fittings.
I had to enlarge the holes on the stock Alfa brake brackets
to fit the inverted flare to #3AN adapters. For some reason
Alfa uses a hard line to a bracket, then to a flex hose to
another bracket on the chassis. Must be for safety, maybe
to avoid having the hoses come loose? I will copy this design,
using as few fittings as possible. I am also using standard
steel rigid 3/16 brake line, but is powder coated black
(purchased thru JEGS). Here's a few pics of my fittings, hoses
and all the tools I need to get the job done right.

[Keven]

Here's a few pics of the dual master cylinders installed. Notice that
the brake pedal is way to far out. This is with the threaded rods
all the way screwed into the balance bar cleavices. So I will need to
machine up a 1" spacer to move the master cylinders further into the
engine bay

The clutch master will be very tight as well, and am expecting some
troubles getting that in, but one thing at a time....

Here a few pics, looks pretty cool, and the balance bar feels really
smooth, but the threaded rod on the clutch pedal side is hitting, so will
have to machine a notch in the clutch pedal

[Seinista]

just bend and reweld the brake pedal INSIDE the car!
You won't notice with dash in place... Pedal travel will be ok.

[Keven]

Seinista, you have given me a good idea! I think rather
than cut the pedal, I will cut and re-thread the master
cylinder push rods! Perfect, thanks

[junglejustice]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keven Seinista, you have given me a good idea! I think rather than cut the pedal, I will cut and re-thread the master cylinder push rods! Perfect, thanks

[Keven]

Jungle,

Thanks!! Yes, it is a Tilton, and the quality is great!
I originally wanted to use a Wilwood balance bar, but
Wilwood does not have a mechanical drawing of it, and
would not send me one! How are you suppose to use
a product that needs to be fitted to another car part
without dimensions? Crazy if you ask me!! Tilton on the
other hand has really been responsive to all my stupid
questions, and is more that willing to send drawings.

You are using Wilwood pedals? How are those fitting for you?

[junglejustice]

Nah - we bought some floor-mounted Tiltons at first, but after measuring them we decided against it! (The Milano floor-boards are so flimsy and the angles are screwed up - would have taken too much modifying...)

We had Group 2 and Martin at GiroDisc do some calculations for us and found that given our ability to change all of the other parameters, we would "live" with the relatively good 4.5 pedal-ratio of the stock Milano brake pedal and fine-tune the system using all of the other parameters!

You can change the master cylinder-sizing, the friction coefficient (with changes in the pad-composition), disc diameter and width (faster cooling between brake-applications), caliper size and piston count and piston-circumference, total swept-area of the discs etc etc.

At the end of the day we went with the Tilton bias-bars and the remote adjusters from them as well to match up to our AP caliper and disc setups and a set of Girling masters!

[Keven]

Small update, bent up some brake lines, and trial fitted them.
Here's a couple of pics, one with a coat hanger template for the
lines, and the original line, along with mine. The last pic is
of it all installed, with the Earls flex line. Getting there...

[Keven]

Brake plumbing is finally done!!
I cut the brake masters push rods shorter by 2", then
used a die to cut new threads, pedal height is ideal now.
I have also finished making all the rigid brake lines
and installed them. I am planning on securing them
using Made For You brake line clamps, but will not do
this until the car is painted, as I will remove all the brake
lines prior to painting.

The Tilton brake master cylinders look really nice installed,
and I am able to use the large brake fluid resavoir. The
rear plumbing uses a 12" Earls stainless braided hose, and
attaches to a "T" block which I had to make a custom
bracket for that attaches to the differntial. The lines to the
calipers are secured to the rear axle using zip ties.

Next up is to bolt on the clutch master and plumb it up.

[rafael]

Kevin,

Interesting; the third picture shows where the rear seat belt is attached. Can you pls post a picture how it looks from the inside of the car (both sides please) so that I can make rear seat belt attaching points. Thanks a lot

[Keven]

Rafael,

Here you go...

[rafael]

Kevin,

Great!!
So I see the fixing points for the rear seatbelt close to the propshaft tunnel, and on the wheel wells, right? Pls do confirm!

Kevin, last favor, can you pls make close-up pictures of the attachment points? If possible also from the inside of the wells, and from the underside of the car. Thanks again.

Rafael

[Keven]

Rafael,

Yes, those are the correct attach points. It may be easier
to buy the correct hardware from:

Replacement Seatbelts, Seat Belts, Seat Belt Extenders, and Seatbelt Extensions @ SeatBeltsPlus.com