GTV-S2000 (warning not for the Alfa purist)

[Keven]

Note: You have to thread the Wilwood rear caliper mounting holes for
a 12mm bolt. I did the same thread pitch as the front caliper bolts
which are 12 X 1.5 mm.

[kjestam]

Thanks !

Anthony

[Nipper]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveH Adam, I don't know where that advice comes from, but it strikes me as a recipe for disaster. Take Pete's advice! Twist your right foot to enable the ball of your big toe to be centered on the brake pedal. Your heel should find the throttle no problem. DaveH

[Keven]

To tell the truth, I am starting to regret using the S2000 pedals,
as it has involved so much mods. Would have been so much easier
to use the stock Alfa one's (as PSK mentioned). But I got the pedals
for real cheap ($50 ebay) and they are brand new, also the brake
master and booster, and clutch master all for under $100. A stock
ATE booster is around $350, so no comparison in price, but then
there is the issue of how much is my time worth?

As far as starting the Tomato, I still need to figure out the drive
shaft, plumb the brakes, get a custom radiator made, and make a
custom cat-back exhaust out of the S2000 rear exhaust I bought ($75),
and modify my S2000 gas tank with fuel pump ($125) to fit in the trunk.
Soooo it's looking like my goal of starting before the end of summer
will be slipping

[slyalfa]

what year is this car? 1971 you still need to smog it? or is cat-back somthing else. why not use the alfa gas tank? all you need is a good FI pump. like the s2000 or use a bosch out of any FI car. if you want super power get one out of a CIS injected car. the bosch pumps seem to last for ever. as for the rest just plug away.
BTW I looked at my 75 there is no way the bottom of my foot can come even close to it. it is very small and inline with the break. nothing above it or below the break pedel.

[Keven]

Hate to say this, but had to give up on using the S2000 pedals.
They look damn cool, but they just will not fit without major changes
to the steering shaft holder. Also the pedals would have to be bent
to clear the shaft, so way too much work and headaches. There
really is only about 5" of clearance from the firewall to the steering
column support, and that is with cutting all the way back to the bolt
that holds the support to the car.

Plan B was to adapt the stock pedal box to bolt the S2000 booster
and master cylinder to it. I found that I needed to recess the stock
pedals about an inch into the car to fit the booster and master.
I built a box to bolt the stock pedal box into, and had to make a bracket
to relocate the clutch master cylinder. I am planning on running a longer
rod to the clutch master, which will be bolted to the engine bay wall.

Lots and lots of fab work, welding, cursing, drilling, more cursing, fitting, filing,
yet more cursing, you get the idea...

A few pics for your enjoyment...

[Keven]

here acouple of the clutch bracket, its aluminum

[vintage prep]

Kevin,

Why have the booster? Sure your brake effort will go up without it, but you will get used to it in no time. I have removed the boosters on several Alfa's over the years as I've always felt they were overboosted for my sporty driving style.

Plus you save weight and gain a little more room in the engine bay

[5yearplan]

I agree you really wouldn't need one with such a light car, and if is an issue, get a brake pressure multiplier (looks like a proportioning valve, multiplies brake pressure by up to 5 or 10 times! depending on application) I really don't think it would be too noticeable, I'm not planning on running one on my v6 conversion and it will be an everyday driver. Worst case scenario is that you will develop finely sculpted legs in a month (if they're not already)

[Keven]

Welded in the pedal box adapter. Note that the air control solenoid is
hitting the master cylinder, so need some adjustments. I also had to
slightly detent the fender to accomodate the larger booster.
Still need to clean up the welds, and do some adjusting to get it all
to fit. Next I need to bolt the clutch master cylinder onto the
the fender, and make a connecting rod to accuate it.

[aa105b]

This isn't a rice conversion




More along the lines of risotto

[Subtle]

He- He- He +++

[GTV-GR]

Man i thought the b1tch part was placing the engine/trans - how wrong i was...

[Keven]

Hmmm, I like "risotto" as a custom plate

Yep, the pedals and brake booster has turned into
a real nightmare, so I am backtracking, and will now
use a Tilton dual master cylinder set up with a balance
bar. The good people at Tilton will calculate the size
master cylinders you need based on lots of data from
your car (ie, caliper cylinder diameter, pedal ratio,
car weight, etc). The engineers there said I need to
run a 7/10" for the front, and a 13/16" bore master
cylinder for the rear. Tilton part numbers 74-700u,
and 74-812u, the balance bar is 3/8" x 2.5" Tilton
part number 72-250. So now onto making a mounting
plate for these items.....

[Keven]

I machined up a mounting plate for the Tilton master cylinders,
and after a lot of pain in aligning them to the Alfa pedals I think
I finally have the brakes about figured out. The problem was
getting the Titlon's aligned within 20 mils to the Alfa pedals
and getting the correct travel, and pedal position in the cabin.
I am also using a Tilton balance bar, and still need to bore a
hole in the brake pedal and weld in the Tilton sleeve for this.
I have opted to use a Tilton 5/8" bore clutch master cylinder
as well, and have drilled the holes in the correct position on
the mounting plate.

I would like to add that the engineers at Titlton were very hepfull
in answering all my stupid brake questions. I highly recommend
this company, and the product looks very nice as well.

Here's a few shots of the set up, minus the clutch master...