GTV-S2000 (warning not for the Alfa purist)

[Subtle]

Fascinating project. +++

[Keven]

Bolton's Classic Wheels 16516 S. Western Ave, Gardena CA. 310-763-6621
I am picking them up today, so will post some pics and comment on their
work. The cost was $65 each rim, they actually remove the center from
the original wheel, then weld it into a new outer rim.

[Keven]

Here's the widened wheels (15"x5.5"). They look pretty good to me.
The fronts look real clean, but the welds in the back side look
pretty crappy, in fact they look worse than my welds
but look to be strong.

The chrome rim was the only choice, but looks clean.

What do you all think?

[hughqv]

why go to all that trouble and only 5 1/2 in.? Or did i miss something? Otherwise i like the polished dish goes well with the donc ~

[cowfy]

as others before me have,i've just found this thread.i've been touting the 2000s on alfa blogs now and then but been ignored.ever since my first spin in one when i found you don't have to use your arm for gear changes.just your wrist.and those revs.best of luck.it looks to me like solid smart work here.job would wonder at your patience.

[Keven]

The reason I chose to only go with a 5.5" rim is that the offset
with a larger rim would have recessed the hole pattern to far
into the rim and did not look very nice. I guess I could have used spacers,
but don't really care for them.

Also I was worried about tire rub, thinking that I really could only
use 195x60 or 205x50's without any rub issues.

Here's a better shot of the rims with a "sombrero" on, looks very nice IMHOP.

One question, what are the correct bots to use to hold the "sombrero" on?

[Max Banks]

Good to see it coming together Keven, you need 2000 GTV 19mm wheel nuts with the integrated collar to hold those centre caps on. We have them as our own production in stainless steel if you want new ones.

[Keven]

Max,

Could you tell me the price, and post a pic?

Thanks

[Keven]

Spent the weekend rebuilding my Burman box.
Got most of the parts powder coated, and the
hardware from McMaster-Carr (ball bearings, bushing,
rubber o-ring, etc). Still need to source a plug for the
fill hole. When I removed the box from the car, I found
that the box had a few cracks at the steering column
side of the box, had these tig welded, the pics show the
extra welds inside to strengthen that side. Chased all the
threaded holes with a tap. It was a pain in the arse to
get all the ball bearings in without them falling out while
reassembling the box. Also the Burman thread on the BB
claimed that the recirulating box should hold 31 balls, but
I could only fit 30 in mine? Guess I'll see how it all works
out once it's all together. Here's some pics...

[Keven]

Forgot to mention that I used Honda-Bond on all the gasket
interfaces, as well as on all the bolts that thread into to
box, and that can leak oil. This stuff is awesome!!

[Keven]

ok, this weekend I pressed new bushings into front and rear
sway bar links, as well as new bushings into the trunion
bushings housings that bolt to the chassis.
Installed the front springs (Centerline), and pulled all the rear
end parts out to start assembly of the rear suspension.
Here's a few pics of all the powder coated parts, as well
as my rebuilt rear end (few years back I did a complete
rebuild and posted here on the BB). I also bought a rear
Superflex bushing kit from Centerline, and intalled them on
the rear swing arms. Next weekend the rear should all come together.

[Subtle]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keven Forgot to mention that I used Honda-Bond on all the gasket interfaces, as well as on all the bolts that thread into to box, and that can leak oil. This stuff is awesome!!

[Graham D]

...Can we guess the source of "Honda-Bond" ?

Loctite 518

[Keven]

Rear suspension is going in. Going against the grain
using Bilsteins with Centerline springs, but yellow on
yellow looks cool I figure with the extra weight of the
S2000 flopping around, they should be ok, and a somewhat
harsh ride does not bother me, yet.

I also re-opened the differntial and added two more friction
plates to increase the % lockup. Started feeling nervous about
all that power and only using the stock 25% lockup with
only one friction plate.

Also here's a shot of the rims with Falken Azenis on.

Questions:
1) Did I put the strap metal guides on in the correct
orientation? I have the curved piece that keeps the
strap pressed down facing the rear.

2) How does one measure the endplay on the trunion?
I think the shop manual states that it should be 0.4cm
on each side, if not use shims. With the poly washer,
I cannot see the gap.

3) When you add friction plates to the third member, do you
remove one of the shims/spacers, and stack the friction plates together,
sandwitched between the spacers? So: spacer/friction/friction/spacer?
Otherwise the friction plates rub on the cups that hold the gears.

4) Where do I get rear wheel studs? IAP is out, and the exchange
rate and shipping from Euro is too high...

[jarrington]

Keven, there's a decent chance I have your wheel studs, and possibly lug nuts as well. I'm out of town so I won't be able to dig in until later this week, though.

-Jason