Gtv-ts

[pancho]

I must admit I am a little envious of the colour of your Junior. I'd like a Giallo stepnose. soon maybe. Should be a ripper once done Nick.

So Miguel, when do you thnk you'll fire this engine up? I am keen to see how this 3D ignition with the VVT works out. Free power is nice.

[Seabird]

Pancho,

I expect in two weeks time the engine will be running. This coming weekend I already have commitments, my uncle and I are roasting a pig, so it will, at best, be put off for the following weekend.

Last night I wired up the coils and the amps. Tomorrow I will finish wiring up the sensors and the power supply for the ecu. In theory I could crank it up at that point but I am going to hold out a little longer. I don't want to rush into a mistake.

I am now in the the last 10% (maybe 15%) of the project so i made a punch list and nailed it to the wall. It's just a matter of knocking off one item at a time.

Regards,

[Seabird]

Has anyone done anything with the oil level sender on the TS block? I have the sender installed but no wires to hook up to it.

Miguel

[njh1964]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seabird Has anyone done anything with the oil level sender on the TS block? I have the sender installed but no wires to hook up to it. Miguel

[Seabird]

Nick,

I believe, except for the oil level sender, they are the same as the nord motors. The one on the intake side of #4 cylinder is the oil pressure and the one by the exhaust side of #2 cylinder (just rear of the dip stick) is the oil pressure switch (low oil pressure light).

The oil level sender is located, on the TS, by the crank driven distributor cap. When you remove it you will notice it has a long prob that goes down to the sump. Which actually makes me think "will it even work with the nord sump/pump pick up?"

Anyone?

[Seabird]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr.G Please post your Weber settings when you tune it. The color is great. Did you save the mixture? Thanks

[Dr.G]

DCOE45
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upto 145 BHP; 34; 135; F16; 165; 55F8; 45; 200
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upto 175 BHP; 36; 145; F16; 165; 55F8; 45; 200
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upto 210 BHP 38; 155; F16; 165; 55F8; 45; 200

[Seabird]

Looks like tomorrow will be a let down. Was working on the car tonight and was not able to get a spark.

The motor turns over easily. I have loaded the inital map per Alfaholics. Removed one of the spark plug wires and inserted a tester. Cranked it over and no spark. Swapped to a different style tester and still no spark.

The ecu screen read out does not indecate an engine that is turning over. The motor rpm never registers. So I was thinking crank position sensor. It is a new sensor, just replaced last week. When checking the output I got .564 kOhms. I checked this at the sensor connector, then at the connection going into the ecu. The same all the way to the computer.

Coils are being feed power. The ecu is also receiving power and has good ground. ...

What is the correct measurement of the cps when at rest?
What is the correct gap between the wheel and the cps?
What technology is the Bosch cps

Help needed.

Miguel

[Seabird]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alfisto Steve Same sensor as 164 on Motronic spiders. Test is for .6 kohm between center pin and one outside pin. Other (third) outside pin to center pin is no reading.

[Seabird]

So it turns out pin 1 and pin 3 of the cps are not interchangeable. And why not one is ground the other is signal. Anyway the reason the ecu was not seeing the crank turning was the sensor was wired backwards. I was seeing the correct resistance because to the ohm meter polarity does not mater much. Once I started checking for voltage while cranking suddenly it made a difference.

Anyway once we corrected to connection we got spark and a splash of gas later and we were in business.

We played around with the carbs ( )a bit. Let her idle for a little while, not to long. Realized the fuel pressure is probably high. Had a few beers and called it a night.

VIDEO0075.3gp - YouTube

By the way special thanks to Max from Alfaholics! Not only do they have some of the best kit around they also have outstanding customer support. Max and I were exchanging emails throughout the day. Thanks Max.

Miguel

[PSk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seabird We played around with the crabs a bit.

[Seabird]

After having been out of town all last week and playing catch up on everything else in life I finally got back to playing with the car. Last night I installed new headlights, a set of Delta Classics with Xenon bulbs from Summit. They fit right in with no modifications needed.

Tonight I played with the engine. While I was away I had ordered a colortune kit to better understand what was going on. What I found was number one piston was firing intermittently and number two piston hardly at all . I am actually surprised the engine ran at all.

I disassembled the top of the carbs to check the float levels and they are fine.

I checked the balance between the carbs, they were a little off at first but good now.

I did a compression test, there all the same, though they seem low. My gauge is 6 or 7 years old and there's not telling how precise it still is. I was happy to see they measured the same.

I found that when closing the choke lever on the front carb I was able to get number 2 to fire. Doing so raised the rpms of the motor also.

Does that imply that my fuel air mixture is way off preventing the engine from firing? As I reduce the available air and bring the mixture more inline the piston fires?

Also how much damage am I doing by running the engine like this. I am not driving it I am merely running in short burst to diagnose the problem.

Thanks for the help.

Miguel

[Seabird]

After a meeting of the minds over coffee this morning, none of which are webers experts , we decided to swap the idle jet assembly from the number four cylinder to the number two cylinder to see what would happen. A miracle! The number two cylinder fired and the number four did not. Also we decided to back out the idle mixture screw a lot more than the suggested 7/8 - 1-1/2 turns and not only did number two run but it ran better. The color seen in the colortune window was whitish. Tried to get video of it but all I got was the motor running; somehow the video got cut short.

I guess I have found my problem though, not enough fuel at idle. Closing the choke increase the vacuum and drew more fuel in. The idle jets that is installed right now are 55F8. I have ordered 60F8 and 65F8 to play with.

Opinions? Comments?


Does anyone know of where weber jets can be bought locally in South Florida?

Miguel

[Dr.G]

We'll all benefit from your sleuthing and setup. Did the idle jet look any different?

[PSk]

Why would swapping the idle jet assembly from one choke to another choke indicate that the engine is not getting enough fuel?

Sounds to me like you have a fault in one of the carburettors?

I'd take them to an expert and get them checked. In the end setting up carbs is dead easy, really, really easy.

If you have no air leaks (note choke 4 is the only choke that provides vacuum to the booster) and all the carbs have exactly the same components it's just a matter of setting the throttle plates so they are exactly the same (tested via a vacuum gauge), you then just have to set each idle jet exactly the same. You do this by simply turning them all the way in and then backing them all back exactly the same number of half turns ... while the engine is off. You then start the engine and adjust the idle mixture until the engine is happy, by turning each idle mixture screw EXACTLY the same number of quarter turns. Once the engine is happy, you alter the idle speed.

As this engine has been converted to carbs it needs to be run ona dyno to check mixture under load but that will only change the main jet size ... will take 15 minutes on a dyno and then you are done.

The biggest problem with carbs is people fiddle and end up with an unbalanced situation ... then you are lost .
Pete