budget v6 spider makeover - Page 2

**alfavulcan** · #16 (**permalink**) 02-22-2009, 11:41 AM

i lowered the mockup motor in the engine bay. man it looks big. most everything seems to clear. the main crossmember front lip will need to be rolled back as the rear edge of the oil sump hits and the motor needs to go about half to 3/4 inch back. it also appears i will be able to use mounts that will avoid having to do any welding. i also included some photos of the radiator i had already been using before to prepare for the swap

**AlfaVeloce** · #17 (**permalink**) 02-22-2009, 05:42 PM

My 164S will do 135 and not even think twice. The driver on the other hand...Well... I didn't hold it there for long.

Looks like it will fit in there OK. Not much room for the induction. Keep us posted on progress.

**alfavulcan** · #18 (**permalink**) 02-22-2009, 09:11 PM

my 164 really has only seen fast highway miles as has the spider. had the spider at hallet motor speedway for some fast parade laps at alfa deco at tulsa 2-3 years ago. don't know how fast as my speedo was broke[again]. hopefully this week i can track down the spider monkey on crack welder who has my bellhousing

adelspyder · #19 (**permalink**) 02-23-2009, 06:40 AM

Fantastic to see another V6 Spider project!!!

Alfavulcan, can I suggest that you fit the cam sprockets and their protective covers to make sure that the motor is at least 1/2 inch from the bonnet in it's current position - due to the slope of the Spider bonet, that's the most critical clearance point.

If the Verde intake seems too tall, at least you have your 164S intake that you could measure up & check bonnet clearance (this seems to be the induction system of choice by many who have done such a project).

Also consider asking an exhaust place over to see what they think of the room re. the headers that have to be made (but do this after you have the bellhousing dummied up so that they can see the space that they have to play with). They may suggest moving the motor further forward / back / sideways etc, or ask for some extra clearance requiring body mods.

And best of luck with the bellhousing (it looks like the Alfa Sei sump is going to make it sooo much easier for you!).

Dino

**alfavulcan** · #20 (**permalink**) 02-24-2009, 08:50 AM

thanks, dino. i just checked my hood cleareance w/ cam sprockets and it clears easily. the sei pan is really the key without chopping up the crossmember or custom fabrication. now if i could find a sei transmission and/or bellhousing i would [as we say in texas] be in high cotton. but i am closing in on my final solution soon. george

**alfavulcan** · #21 (**permalink**) 02-28-2009, 08:32 PM

this morning i cut out new motor mount plates to be welded to the chassis. i used 1/4" steel. then i checked for clearances and marked the frame around the mount. after the frame mounts are welded the engine bay will be prepped for paint. jim will be bringing another gtv-6 bellhousing i can use as a template for the new bellhousing. i toyed with using a mustang t-5, but due to very tight tunnel size, will re-use the spider trans. bodywork will continue as time allows.

tomgtv6 · #22 (**permalink**) 02-28-2009, 10:46 PM

What flywheel and clutch are you using? Looks good.

**conedriver** · #23 (**permalink**) 03-01-2009, 05:46 AM

I really like the appearance of your Spider with the fender flares. I added mine years ago, but had to cut the wheel openings to clear wider rims and tires with a lower ride height. I have eight 9x15 Centerline wheels, and use either 225/45 Hoosier R6 (track) or 275/35 A6 (Autocross) tires.

Quote:

Originally Posted by alfavulcan

after about a year of scrounging parts, i have started a v6 conversion for my 87 spider graduate. previous mods were shankle springs, eibach sway bar, serpent autosport fender flares w/ 15x8 1/2 centerlines wearing 225-50 rubber....

**alfavulcan** · #24 (**permalink**) 03-01-2009, 08:16 AM

thanks, conedriver. i saw yours in tulsa for alfa deco. i am using 15x8 1/2 centerline warriors w/ 225-50 15 falkens. i also had to cut the fenders. i probably will not mold them to the body, just use the stainless screws.

Keven · #25 (**permalink**) 03-01-2009, 09:36 AM

Great project! I am amazed how easily and well the V6 fits in there!
Keep up the good work, and please post as many pics of the process
as you can.

**alfavulcan** · #26 (**permalink**) 03-01-2009, 10:06 AM

i am using a 164 flywheel and pressure plate w/ custom disk. bellhousing markII [markI dissappeared w/ welder] will be a 1" aluminum adapter welded to a shortened 115 bellhousing

**alfavulcan** · #27 (**permalink**) 03-02-2009, 07:01 PM

i decided to rework the frame mounts to incorporate the top bolt from the 4 cyl mounts as a little added insurance for the welding. you have not lived till you have had a big block chevy break loose at high rpm. jim delivered some more parts including a 3.0 verde l-jet harness and computers. the megasquirt option is out for now. i plan on sandblasting and spraying the wheel centers this week. the completely polished wheels are a little to 'bling' for my taste.

**aldo** · #28 (**permalink**) 03-02-2009, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nicola

You are probably too recently subscribed to have been exposed to the thread to which I referred - (and you're probably better off for it!)

FWIW I'm not sure if there are many bbers here who could claim to have gone over 135 in a Spider - the Besics, and a few others certainly have...

**alfavulcan** · #29 (**permalink**) 03-02-2009, 09:24 PM

too funny. i looked up that thread. weird

**alfavulcan** · #30 (**permalink**) 03-02-2009, 09:35 PM

another problem cropped up. as i do not have a completed bellhousing yet, i mounted a gtv6 bell and realized the crank is not centered in the tunnel. i never realized the tunnel was offset that much. looking at photos of other v6 swaps, it appears they angle the the motor slightly towards the passenger side. i will probably shift the motor slightly toward the passenger side before angling it over. i will try any option before crabbing the mounts.