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Old 06-20-2008, 09:50 PM
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Fuel & No Spark. GTV Help!

Well,

I'm going around and around with this one. My '71 GTV 1750 been in storage
for a few months. I went to start it. After a long crank it turned over and I took it for a spin. Next day I crank over again. no problem. Now it's dead in the water. I gave it a crank No spark, plenty of gas. So I replaced the coil and put in some new plugs. But when I crank it, and held the wire slightly away from the new coil. No spark jump. I'm about to replace the points and condenser. But It was working fine the other day. I'm getting fuel but no spark. I must be missing something real obvious. But what! Any help would be much appreciated.
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Old 06-21-2008, 03:29 AM
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Check to see that the black wire from the ignition coil negative terminal to the bottom of the distributor has not fallen off the distributor.
Then check for battery voltage at the coil positive terminal with the key on. Check that the cap and rotor are still usable and that the rotor turns with the key in start. If all is okay, replace the points and condensor.
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Series 1 Euro 1750 GTV
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Old 06-21-2008, 06:55 AM
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Angry Still no go?

Quote:
Originally Posted by papajam View Post
Check to see that the black wire from the ignition coil negative terminal to the bottom of the distributor has not fallen off the distributor.
Then check for battery voltage at the coil positive terminal with the key on. Check that the cap and rotor are still usable and that the rotor turns with the key in start. If all is okay, replace the points and condensor.
Jim,

I check the negative wire. The green one from the bottom distributor,Then I checked the positive one that runs along the firewall to the positve connection on the coil. For some reason these two were reversed. I might have inadvertently
reversed them when I changed out the coil the first time. So now is correct. Negative Green from bottom of coil to Negative - on the coil. Positive + running along the fire wall to Positive + on the coil. I do get good voltage at the positive coil with the key on. Cap and rotor are good. No Start once again. Points and Pondenser on order... Any more thoughts Jim?
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Old 06-21-2008, 05:56 PM
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Well, you could try to clean/regap the existing points or just install the new parts when they arrive.
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Series 1 Euro 1750 GTV
Series 2 US 1750 GTV
Series 3 Spider Veloce
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Old 06-21-2008, 11:13 PM
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Question Point Gap?

Jim,

At what gap should I set the points, I mean point, single..

Thank you,

Mark
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Old 06-22-2008, 12:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '71 1750 View Post
Jim,

At what gap should I set the points, I mean point, single..

Thank you,

Mark
You have a single point set in the distributor, but the set is referred to as "points."

According to the International Parts catalog, 1750 cars with FI use a .018" gap. The Euro cars with carbs use .014 to .016.

When asked about modifications that make a difference to our vintage cars, I always suggest that the best to do first is to replace a breaker point distributor with an electronic ignition. Gives you a hotter spark, which helps when you start the engine, and keeps the plugs fresher, longer. Also eliminates having to change points and set the gap, or dwell, every 3,000 miles or so.
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Old 07-17-2008, 06:30 PM
alfaman1963 alfaman1963 is offline
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Hi Guys If you have a test light use it if not buy one unless your able to "see" electricity.
Ground the test light and put the probe on the NEG side of coil, have someone crank the engine and if the light flashes and you have no secondary spark it's a bad coil. If the light does not flash it time to replace the points or condensor OR both. Also you should always have 12V on the POS side of the coil with the key on. Also you'll still get a weak spark with the wires reversed............ Jim
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Old 07-17-2008, 06:56 PM
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Jim.

Thanks for the tip. I got my baby running like a clock afeww weeks ago. But I will store your adivce.

Thanks again,

Mark
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