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Old 04-22-2008, 07:41 AM
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lowmileage lowmileage is offline
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Originally Posted by William Langley View Post
I knew someone would tell me that couldn't work.

and I thought what you said made sense
"If the actuator extends to 29mm at 175 degrees, try setting the pump gap with the dummy actuator at 29mm (if the screw will turn in far enough), and install without the shims."

That will still give me .019 at 175 degrees (now of course there is this load business) and should kick the lever over to give me a bigger gap (faster cold idle) at a cold start. No?
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Old 04-22-2008, 10:11 AM
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No. Other way round. Removing the shim will decrease the gap.

As far as the load goes, the TA is a version of, say, the hydraulic clutch system. The bulb in the intake manifold is the master and the piston at the pump is the slave. If there is air in the system, the master will go full travel while the slave will not. Same with the TA; air in the system will not allow full piston travel. Hence, testing the TA under load just as it would be as installed.
Then there's the issue of what fluid was used in the rebuilt TA as different fluids expand at different rates.
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Old 04-22-2008, 10:37 AM
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Off topic, anyone on this?

While chatting with Wes last night

I know it may be herisy (sp), but I know I can fiddle with my idle adjusting this screw!
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Old 04-22-2008, 02:19 PM
William Langley William Langley is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowmileage View Post
Off topic, anyone on this?

While chatting with Wes last night

I know it may be herisy (sp), but I know I can fiddle with my idle adjusting this screw!
You are correct, sir! But at operating temp, the butterflies won't close all the way, and it will backfire on deceleration. The idle "adjustment" is the slotted tube on top of the intake manifold that is connected to the air box with the little rubber hose. Frankly, I've never had one make a darn bit of difference in idle or anything else!

I'll join you in heresy: I adjust idle speed on a SPICA car with spark advance!

BTW, really nice car.

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Old 04-22-2008, 02:24 PM
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My 69 does have an idle adjustment screw of some sort and it increases the idle a bit and it leads to backfires.
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Old 04-22-2008, 02:28 PM
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Hey buds, I'd just be a tad careful talking about circumventing anything regarding what has been written about the Spica if I were you . Guy in this house I heard was fiddling with the mixture set-up trying to get his to idle right.



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Old 04-22-2008, 02:34 PM
William Langley William Langley is offline
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Thanks, lowmileage, that was a good one. I needed a good laugh!
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Old 04-22-2008, 02:45 PM
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The backfires were not that loud, a kind of burble . . . .
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Old 04-22-2008, 03:10 PM
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Old 04-22-2008, 03:14 PM
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I only tweaked the screw officer, really!! It just makes more noise due to the stinger . . .
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Old 04-22-2008, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anfanuts View Post
My 69 does have an idle adjustment screw of some sort and it increases the idle a bit and it leads to backfires.
Hmmm.....
The idle on the 69s is adjusted via the idle equalizers mounted to the air cleaner. To which adjusting screw of sorts are you referring to, sir. (me thinks the delivery adjust screw perhaps)
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2008, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anfanuts View Post
My 69 does have an idle adjustment screw of some sort and it increases the idle a bit and it leads to backfires.
If you're talking about the idle stop screw on the top of the intake manifold, that screw IS NOT to adjust the idle speed. It is set with the Alfa factory tool to a specific position in the relay crank's arc. If it's not set correctly, the delta between the arc of the throttle butterflies and the injection pump throttle (fuel deliver) lever will not be correct. If it screwed in to increase idle speed, it will open the throttle butterflies slightly which will cause decel backfire/burble. At idle and closed throttle the butterflies must be completely closed and all air supplied through the idle air tubes.

With regards to the 4kg load when testing the TA, yes, technically that's correct and if there's air in the system that could possibly give a false reading. Usually if there's air in the system the TA is leaked pretty good and probably won't test correctly even without a load.
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Old 04-22-2008, 05:32 PM
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I'll take a pic of the screw (slotted top requiring only a longshank screwdriver and no special tool on my 69 anyway) when I'm at the car's location next (this weekend). After a Spica FI pump rebuild by Wes, my Alfa mechanic said it was a cheating way to slightly increase the idle speed and sm ooth it out a tad, as his efforts on the equalizers did not work. It is the screw you refer to on the intake manifold and it opens the throttle plate a tad BUT was introducing backfire so I screwed it back 1/4 (CCW) of the 1/2 turn he opened it (CW) and it diminished burble to a tolerable level and remained smooth (except for a periodic miss on #4 which he believes is the brake booster vacuum line check valve hanging up) . Perhaps it is a faulty set-up on the install. I'll have Joe Foster check it next time I see him. Cheers,
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Old 04-23-2008, 01:59 PM
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If the idle stop screw has been messed with, it should be reset with the factory tool. The position of the relay crank, especially at idle is very important to establish the relationship between the throttle butterflies and the fuel delivery of the injection pump.

The Spica idle air system is not very precise nor does it modulate well when adjusting. As long as the other setting are correct and you get between 600-900 rpm at hot idle, that's good.
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Old 04-23-2008, 02:16 PM
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