Wes Ingram Rebuild Markings

[Roadtrip]

Ever wonder if your injection pump has been overhauled? Here's a picture of Ingram Enterprises overhaul markings. This particular pump is also a high performance rebuild. HP-150 for 150 horsepower. Of course, it's for use with a hi-perf cams and hi-compression pistons.

[roland]

Waht a revelation.. I just discovered my SPICA pump has a IE stamp on it.... but no HP 150 stamp on it...
I know the engine was overhauled (large valves etc..) at Hasselgreen race engines in CA probably around 1995... but I never realised the pump had seen Wes. Wander what was done ?

[roland]

Here is a closer shot of the ref badge. Its a T255/1 which I read is a 1974 era pump and has a more aggressive profile cam in it.

Once again I am thankfull for the enormous value this board brings. Will never find the words to express how glad I am for:
- Discovering this board
- For the people who founded and keep this board running
- For all the great Alfistis out there and their extreme will to take time and share their experience
- For the invention of the internet and discussion boards
- For stumbling on the opportunity to buy my 1750 duetto (I was looking for a E type !!) and turn me into a Alfisti myself

[Roadtrip]

That's a very good thing that you have a somewhat recently overhauled injection pump. You can expect many years of service from it. Pumps overhauled by Ingram have:

1. Plungers and barrels redone. Worn plungers result in fuel leaking into the oil sump, a mandatory pump overhaul.

2. Improved stainless steel rack clip spring. The spring coil on the stock spring has a lot of mass and has been known to break, usually only under very intense conditions like racing.

3. Improved compensator link spring with an anti-vibration inner spring. Stock springs have been know to break even under ordinary use. Many owners neglect to change the oil in the logic section of the pump. Moisture can collect and rust the spring which can cause eventual breakage.

4. Improved Cam Follower Ball Bearing. Ingram puts larger ball bearings in the cam follower. The stock ball bearing that rides on the 3D cam can become flat spotted. This can result in occassional changes in mixture due to the ball rotating on or off the flat spot. If it gets bad enough, the cam follower housing can dig a groove in the 3D cam (very bad). Again, a minimal amount of pump maintenance (fresh oil in the logic section) can help prevent this.

5. Pump is run on a bench for hours and the individual plungers are balanced so that each cylinder is getting exactly the same amount of fuel . . . . no lean nor rich cylinders.

6. Other parts repaired/replaced as needed.


The T255 and T255/1 pumps have the most fuel delivery for stock pumps. Actually all the pumps up to the T255/1 have about the same fuel delivery at idle, but the 255's are richer above 5000 rpm. Starting in '75 the pumps get leaner due to emissions regs and incorporation of cat converters, EGRs, Air Pumps, etc. As far as stock pumps go, the T255s are the best performers. If you're 1750 was given some high performance mods at it's rebuild in '95, that's probably why they put a T255 pump on it instead of the T237/1. The 237/1 is kind of the bastard child of SPICA pumps because it is so much different than the rest. For instance, the 3D cams are interchangable between all pumps except the '69 T237/1. Also, the Fuel Cutoff Solenoid on the post-69 pumps have a much wider range of fuel adjustment than the 69 pump.

If you're going to have the pump off the car for an extended period of time, I'd recommend that you take it off the engine, drain all the old gunky oil, clean out the oil filter cavity, drain all gasoline from the pump section, then put some Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel section to prevent varnish and rust from forming. The one-way outlet valves beneath the fuel towers are especially suseptable to corrosion. They are hand-lapped and even a small amount of corrosion can cause them to leak back.

[roland]

Roadtrip,
I forgot to say that my 1969 1750 actually has a 1974 2000 engine in it (came from a GTV - PO said).
I assume the pump came with the 2L engine.
I will actuall y dig up the paper work on what was done to the engine itself and look for a BB translation of what it means for I do not understand what was really done to the motor.
As for the pump I am not planning on taking it off the engine. There are too many things I have never done and I am trying to keep from touching what is not broken yet (I love to dismantle stuff and sometimes create more pbs than initially anticipated).

Lubrication: Every week as I work on a piece of the car I manually turn the engine over a few times to hopefully lubricate something (although the oil pump probably cannot move much oil around).. hum ? maybe I'll put some oil in the spark plug holes and then turn her over . At least I assume it probably does good to the spica pump to be turned over a little. Would you agree ?

[DriverJon]

Roland..

I'm not 100% sure, but I think you might be able to send in your pump's serial # to Wes, and he'd look it up and tell you what
was done to it.

He seems to be a meticulous enough guy that he probably keeps records on every pump he's modified..

[JoeCab]

My pump, which is a T255 built to HP-150 specs (according to the receipt) has the Ingram logo but no HP-150 stamp on it.

I wonder when he started stamping the performance level on the pumps, and if he does this for his race pumps as well?

Joe

[Roadtrip]

The HP-150 pump, I believe, is the Type 2 Street Performance Pump. The Type 3s are the full race pumps.

I'm surprised that it's not stamped. I don't know what year the pump was modified, but maybe he started stamping them after that. Considering that there's a modified camiod in there, I'd be nice to know that. A HP-150 pump, with it's stiffer camoid spring, isn't going to do a stock engine much good, although it may allow it to rev to destruction. The stock pumps seem to run out of steam around 5600 (redline), which is good to my thinkin'.

Drop Wes an email. He's very good about answering his email. May take a couple of days, but he will answer.

[JoeCab]

Yes, the PO of the my car corresponded with Wes during his engine build and Wes built the pump he thought would be best for the cams and port job. He's an excellent resource for anyone working on Spica engines.

[sono veL.O.ce]

ahhh HA!
I have the mark of ZORRO!
But here's a question.
If i have a '74 alfa, with what I now know to be an ingram rebuilt spica, do I still have the "hotter" cam? or do I have a rebuilt pump off of someone elses car?

[Roadtrip]

No way of telling if the exact pump on your car was put on by the factory. I would think that it's just a rebuild off Ingram's shelf, unless the PO specified he wanted that exact same pump S/N back. Personally, I wouldn't care what the serial number was as long as the "T" number was the same. The rebuilds are compeltely gone through and are probably better than new anyway.

You can, however, check to see if it's a 74 model injection pump. Get a small mirror and check the dataplate on the right side of the injection pump. There's several numbers there. Look for the "T" number. If yours is a 74 model pump, then the number will be "T255/1."

As far as stock 3D cams go, the 73's (T255) and the 74's (T255/1) have the highest fuel delivery and most performance potential. Starting in 75, the mixtures started leaning out due to emission regs, cat converters, etc.

How Ingram modifies the 3D cam, I have no idea unless it's built up (richer mixture) in certain engine speed/throttle position locations, then milled as desired. Given that tiny changes in the profile of the 3D cam result in substancial changes in fuel delivery, I don't see how that could be done accurately by anything other than an electronically controlled milling machine.

It sounds like Joe Cab's pump may have been custom tuned to the PO's specs. The pump that I featured in the picture is a "standard" Level 2 street performance pump (HP-150) that is meant to go with hot hi-lift cams and hi-compression pistons . . . . supposidly making about 150 hp.

[sono veL.O.ce]

hmm, is seems I have a << T 261/1 >> pump. Where do you find the information on how to read the T numbers?

[Roadtrip]

69 - T237/1
71 - T237/2
72-73 T255 (start of 2L's)
74 T255/1
75 T260
76-77 T260/1
76 (Calif) T261
77-79 (Calif) T261/1
79 (Auto) T263
80-81 T265

On a T261, when you're tuning it, use a 29mm dummy actuator to set the pump gap. Don't use 27mm like on 74 T255/1. The T260 thru T261/1 have a leaner idle and are leaner above 5000 rpm, no doubt due to the Calif regs at the time.

If you're running stock cams and compression, I doubt you'd detect much, if any, performance difference between the 74 pump and yours. The good thing is that the pump's been overhauled and should give many many years of dependable service . . . . . if you maintain it correctly.

I wonder if you're engine is from a 77-79 model with the emissions stuff removed. Next time you have the cam cover off, take a look at the number on the cams. 74 cams were 115.00,00 and 77-79s were 116.34.00 and 116.34.00

"T" number info is in Wes Ingram's SPICA booklet.

[sono veL.O.ce]

funny you should mention the cams, I had the cover off just now to check them. It was going to be my next post.

They're 105 2003 2000 01
and they appear to be regrinds with the '20' stamped in above the '--03'

[Roadtrip]

That number corresponds to 2L cams, but I don't think you can tell the cam specs by it. Early 70s 2L had less overlap to try and clean up the emissions, but on later cat converter cars, they were able to increase overlap in an effort to improve high end response.

I'm getting out of my league when we start talking about camshaft specs, so maybe Papajam can chime in here and figure out exactly what cams you have in the engine.