
02-19-2003, 08:14 AM
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Anyone have a pic of stock dual weber set up for a 1750-2000?
Ive decided to take the plunge, and convert
to dual Webers. I want my engine bay to
look as stock as possible.
Anyone have some photos of the dual weber set
up used in Europe on the 1750's or 2000's?
It would be helpfull if the photo's showed
the set up with and without the air canister.
Thanks
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1971 GTV ongoing "restoration" project (Rice Conversion)
1978 Spider sold in 1996
1962 Guilietta Spider sold looong ago
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02-20-2003, 07:11 AM
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Some photos
Keven,
Below are a couple of general shots of the Webers on my 1600 GT Junior (the same setup as 2000) the only strange thing is my home made throttle return spring set-up to get past scrutineering.
See if you can work out what it's made of?....
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Dave Jones
'76 1600 GT Junior
Maldon, UK.
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02-20-2003, 07:12 AM
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And another...
without the air box on:
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Dave Jones
'76 1600 GT Junior
Maldon, UK.
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02-20-2003, 07:50 AM
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Dave,
Thanks for the photos. Im guessing the throttle
return sping is being held by a bike wheel quick
release lever? Why do you need this, is the
stock linkage no good?
Also could I bother you by asking for a photo
with the bottom air intake assembly off.
And where is the fuel filter located, and
are you running an electric or a mechanical
fuel pump? If mechanical, is its output ever
a problem?
Sorry for all the questions, but us Yanks dont
see many carburated 70's Alfas over here 
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1971 GTV ongoing "restoration" project (Rice Conversion)
1978 Spider sold in 1996
1962 Guilietta Spider sold looong ago
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02-20-2003, 09:28 AM
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Keven,
Well spotted. I used the QR to give me options on where to clip the spring to affect throttle pedal feel. The reason I have to put this on is that the RAC Scrutineers like to see throttle return springs acting directly on each throttle spindle in case the linkage breaks (in order that the throttles fail closed) Now there are helical springs inside the carb housings to do this but the scrutineers can't check these to see if they are damaged or broken etc, so you have to fit additional springs (overkill if you ask me - but I've never had a linkage break- then I might be glad of the extra springs)
I use the standard machanical fuel pump - never had a problem with it.
There is an in line fuel filter with a glass bowl (Malpassi style) mounted on the front of inner fender - difficult to photograph - roughly opposite the distributor.
I'd like to take a photo with the base of the air box off but it's a PITA to get off as the lower bolts are really tricky to get to.
When I get my 2000 GTV in the garage and pull the engine I can get any shots you want....
Dave
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Dave Jones
'76 1600 GT Junior
Maldon, UK.
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02-20-2003, 10:50 AM
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Dave,
Thanks for the info. I had a feeling that the
bottom airbox would be a PITA to get off.
Who are the "scrutineers"? Do you have to pass
some kind of vehicle safety inspection in the UK?
Im still on the fence about using mechanical vs
electrical fuel pump. For me its not an issue
of amount of work, since I will have the entire
engine out of the car, and could easily replace
the front cover to run the mechanical pump.
Just dont know which is more reliable/trouble free.
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1971 GTV ongoing "restoration" project (Rice Conversion)
1978 Spider sold in 1996
1962 Guilietta Spider sold looong ago
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02-21-2003, 12:53 AM
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Scrutineers are the guys who check competition vehicles for safety before any licensed competition event in the UK. They look at everything safety related and if they don't give you the OK you can't compete.
As far as mechanical vs electrical fuel pumps - of all the cars I've owned over the years the only one's I've had fuel pump problems with have been electrical. This doesn't mean that there is anything wrong with electric pumps but my experience would say a mechanical one is more durable. If you fit a mechanical one during the rebuild it's relatively easy to switch to electric in the vehicle later on if you're not happy. More difficult to go the other way.
I've had my car for 10 years now and been competing for two, I've never had a problem with the stock mechanical pump.
Your call.
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Dave Jones
'76 1600 GT Junior
Maldon, UK.
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02-21-2003, 01:26 AM
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Keven,
Are you looking for an original set up or a conversion kit?
There's an eBay seller, Alfa1750, in Italy. He occasionally sells original Weber carb setups for around $400. Carbs, intake, linkage, airbox, etc. You'd probably just need a Spica block-off plate.
This would be an alternative to buying the entire kit from IAP or Centerline for $1200! These kits are designed to work with the original Spica intake.
Here's a partial conversion kit (Spica block-off plate lower right):
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Kai Schorr
105.36 : 1967 Giulia Sprint GT Veloce
Last edited by 67GTV; 02-21-2003 at 01:34 AM.
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02-21-2003, 01:31 AM
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Here's a shot of an engine with what appears to be a conversion kit using the Spica intake.
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Kai Schorr
105.36 : 1967 Giulia Sprint GT Veloce
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02-21-2003, 01:45 AM
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Keven,
Here's a shot of the carbs with Sport filters from the '67 GTV I just sold. I have the engine with carbs still attached, in my garage. I can take some pictures if you'd like.
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Kai Schorr
105.36 : 1967 Giulia Sprint GT Veloce
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02-21-2003, 07:57 AM
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Kai,
Thanks for the pics!! These are all very
helpfull when I get ready to do the conversion.
I think I am going to go with the Euro set up
though. Im thinking its all designed for the
carbs. Also I will have the entire engine
appart so its no problem fitting a Euro front
cover and mechanical pump.
Dave, thanks for the feedback on the pumps, you
are right in that it would be easier to convert
to an electrical pump later.
I want the car to be real reliable, and also I
want to be able to work on it myself with a
minimum of special tools.
Last question for Dave, how often do you have
to fiddle/synchronize your dual webers? Any
other maintanace issues?
__________________
1971 GTV ongoing "restoration" project (Rice Conversion)
1978 Spider sold in 1996
1962 Guilietta Spider sold looong ago
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02-21-2003, 09:28 AM
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I haven't adjusted the carbs for a long time. As there aren't many moving parts in them, once they're set up, they stay pretty consistent. I did have mine overhauled by a colleague a few years back, this wasn't expensive and was a maintenance thing as I had them off to fix the Oil pressure sender anyway. The only niggles with them are they don't drive very cleanly when cold. I don't tend to use choke as it doesn't really need it and I had it stick on a couple of times (lack of use) so I leave it alone. There is a stabiliser bar that goes from the underneath of the carbs to the bottom of the block (as the carbs are rubber mounted) and I had to replace that once. Other than that 10 years of trouble free motoring.
If only the bodywork was as well engineered as the oily bits.......
I'm off home to paint the floor in the garage ready for the arrival of Alfa No. 2
Dave
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Dave Jones
'76 1600 GT Junior
Maldon, UK.
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02-25-2003, 04:26 AM
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Same here
While I have only had my GTV for eight months, my 1600 with Webers starts up every time. I haven't had to mess with the carbs yet. There is also no need for me to use the manual choke. Do later model GTV's come with a 'cruise control' accelerator cable?
Back to Keven's carbs, would pictures like this help? I just took this one from the 1600 that got pulled. Gonna rebuild these puppies.
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Kai Schorr
105.36 : 1967 Giulia Sprint GT Veloce
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02-25-2003, 07:51 AM
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Kai,
Yes, that photo is very helpfull, I have never
seen a mechanical pump. Looks very simple.
Just the way I like it 
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1971 GTV ongoing "restoration" project (Rice Conversion)
1978 Spider sold in 1996
1962 Guilietta Spider sold looong ago
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02-26-2003, 02:27 AM
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Mechanical fuel pump
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Kai Schorr
105.36 : 1967 Giulia Sprint GT Veloce
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