Storage of SPICA Injection Pumps

[Roadtrip]

One of the fastest ways to seriously damage a SPICA injection pump is to put it storage without first "pickling" it.

Although most of the pump is very robust, the pump pistons(plungers) are machined to within 50 millionths of an inch to their bore . . . so close that they are self sealing even when stressed to 400 psi, and need no "rings" or rubber seals. Also, the fuel pipe towers on the top of the pump have one-way check valves that consist of a spring and a flat metal disc that is honed flat to a seat.

When the plungers are worn, fuel leaks past them and into the oil sump, diluting the oil. If the check valve seats corrode they won't hold pressure in the fuel-pipe-to-injector, causing difficult starting, poor initial running, and poor idle. With these problems, it's time for some serious surgery by Dr. Wes.

If these parts are not protected from moisture and dirt, they can quickly corrode and be ruined. Even worse, if fuel is left in the passageways, it turns to varnish, then moisture corrodes the metal. Also, in the rear logic section, there are several components that can rust and weaken . . . namely the compensator spring. When that breaks, it's likely that the engine won't run at all, or at best, very badly.

If you don't know that the pump is working properly (such as a spare you just got), it's a good idea to give it cursory bench check of the basic components . . . . . Cold Start Soleniod, Fuel Cutoff Solenoid, and FCS Microswitch. That way you know what you're putting in storage.

To properly preserve a pump for storage:

1. Drain all fuel from the pump section. Just roll the pump around and let the fuel drain from the inlet/outlet as well as the fuel pipe towers.

2. Remove the pump body from the base (part that attaches to the engine) and spray WD-40 over the crankshaft to clean out any gunk. Remove the old oil filter from the base and throughly clean out the cavity. Carb cleaner does well here. Once clean and dry internally, spray with WD-40 and replace the filter plate.

3. Remove the Barometric (altitude) Compensator, set the pump upside down and let all the oil drain out for an hour or so. Replace the BC.

4. Cap off the fuel pipe fittings on top and the fuel supply inlet and outlet ports. Make sure the caps are watertight.

5. Thoroughly clean the exterior of the pump until ALL grease and grime are gone. Scrape off the big chunks and let a can of carb cleaner to the rest.

6. Remove the cover to the microswitch and clean out that cavity with some electrical cleaner spray. It would be a really good idea to remove the switch assembly, then lift out the rubber seal, clean and put some silicon preservative on it. These seals are no longer available, so preserve what you've got. Re-assemble.

7. Remove the fuel fitting caps and squirt some Marvel Mystery Oil down into all the fuel fittings, then turn the pump pulley by hand while rolling the pump around to distribute and coat the internal parts with MMO.

8. Drain the excess and replace the fuel caps.

9. Remove the BC again and pour in enough heavy engine oil to thoroughly coat all the internal parts of the pump. Roll the pump around to distribute the oil everywhere.

10. Once dry on the outside, put the pump in a large heavy zip-lock baggie and seal up. If you have one, a small bag of dessicant wouldn't hurt either. Box the pump and store in a dry, and preferably, heated storage.

11. VERY IMPORTANT. Attach a tag to the pump stating the date it was pickled and also stating that the pump needs to be serviced with logic section oil as well as a fresh oil filter. This is just like when you remove the engine and transmission together and drain the transmission so it doesn't spill all over the place. You put a note on the steering wheel to prevent yourself from driving off without filling the tranny again.

Doing this will greatly decrease the likelihood of ruining a perfectly good FI pump.