SPICA FI Pump Maintenance

[Roadtrip]

Joe - I've never tried it without a gasket. You may be able to get another use out of the old one if it's in good condition. I suppose you could try it with some Blue RTV, but the sealing edge is pretty thin, so I guess I wouldn't be surprised if you get a leak. If you do use RTV only, let it cure throughly before you put it under pressure.

If it were me, I'd cut a new gasket. Be sure to clean any sludge out of the filter cavity while you have it out. Also be careful about overtightening the nuts on the small studs. They've been know to break or strip if abused.

How'd you end up with a bunch of filters and no gaskets?

[Alfapaulic]

John, Another great informative spica piece, thanks for the input, keep up the great service for us and our injection systems. I plan on engine removal and bay cleaning this winter and will be certain to check/change cavity oils. Enjoy the Thanksgiving holiday.

Paul R.

[kingpin]

I've already been adding MMO at the rate of about 2 oz per 10 gal of fuel, is that the right amount????

[Roadtrip]

I use the bottle directions of 4 oz per 10 gallons.

[DriverJon]

Quote:

Originally posted by JoeCab John, I am going to be doing a Spica oil and filter change soon. I have a nice hoard of Spica oil filters, but am out of gaskets. Most suppliers say they are NLA. What do you recommend - cutting a new gasket or using a sealant? Joe

[ossodiseppia]

NAPA has some 1/64" gasket material that you can buy in bulk. Buy a box of it for a few bucks. It will last you a long time. It's perfect for cutting your own gaskets. Just place the oil filter cover over the material and trace around it with an exacto knife. Cut out some of the center for the spring..

[davbert]

hello all,

I'm replacing my 69gtv 1750 with a spica 2 liter motor. I'm trying to reuse my old TA. Do I need a gasket or sealant in the water jacket port on manifold where the TA plugs in to prevent coolant leaks when I install it on my new motor? I did find faint traces of some orange silicone like substance around the opening of the manifold when I removed it. I don't remember seeing any on the bottom where it is inserted to the spica pump though. Someone at Centerline suggested putting a rubber O ring there. It seems like the mounting flanges are so thin that they would bend rather than flattening the O rings with those puny 7mm nuts.

Also my 69 spica doesn’t have an electronic FCS. How would I add this missing wire lead to my newer T255 Ingram 165HP pump? There does seem to be a wire lead hang from under the fuel filter area that I have no idea what its function is.


I'm just dying to see what my new 2liter motor will feel like.



davbert

[papajam]

Centerline is correct; an O-ring is used at the manifold end of the T/A. The manifold is chamfered to accept the O-ring so the T/A flange will sit flush with the manifold when tightened. There is no gasket or O-ring at the pump end of the T/A.
The microswitch for the FCS can be powered by any switched (preferably fused) power source.

[Roadtrip]

Dav - Agree with Papajam. Use an O-ring at the top. Make sure it's not too thick or it won't seat. It should be just enough in diameter to compress as the fitting is seated. Do be careful with those small studs and nuts. Make sure they're clean and not accidentally crossthreaded. I also use a little RTV sealant, just to be sure. The lower fitting in the injection pump doesn't use a gasket.

The FCS is on post-69 cars is powered by the #6 fuse circuit. In post 69 cars the wire that supplies power to the FCS microswitch and solenoid comes from the right front of engine compartment, not under the fuel filter. It's white with a black protective sleeve and a spade connector beside the FI pump. It comes from the wire bundle up on the pax side of the radiator.

The only wires around the fuel filter are:

1. Red/black to the low oil pressure warning light sending unit
2. White/green to the low fuel pressure warning light sending unit
3. Black to the starter solenoid, then to the FI Cold Start Solenoid

You have been checking on startup that your low oil and fuel pressure warning lights work, haven't you?

While you have your TA out, I would suggest HIGHLY that you do a bench test of it in a heating pot of water to be sure it falls within spec for extension at various temperatures. Also, you'll want to check that it's a 27mm extension model and hasn't been replaced with a later 29/31mm extension model. If it is a newer model, you'll want to put a 2-3mm shim underneath the TA lower flange to restore cold running performance. This restores the cold extension to what it should be with a T255 pump.
4. Black wire from the coil to distributor

[slyalfa]

Is there not a drane plug to change the oil?

the big brass nut on the bottom.

I use a oilcan and just fill it up. I would think the silonode would be the best to fill it no gaskit to replace.

[Roadtrip]

The brass plug in the bottom is the well for the hydraulic piston for the cold start system. You'll get some drainage out of it, but due to the internal casting, they'll still be some oil left in the logic section.

I've found the easiest way, if you want to remove as much of the old oil as possible, is to fish a vinyl tube down in the the bottom and suck it out with a big syringe. However, just adding some fresh oil is sufficient to stay in good condition. Excess oil will just drain to the sump.

You shouldn't mess with the solenoids, or you have to retune the pump. The easiest is just to carefully remove the barometric compensator (3 screws). Since there's no pressure in the logic section, you shouldn't have to replace the gasket, at least I've never had to.

[camcar77]

Dear Sir

I have never used a spica injection before do they need a fuel pump to feed the spica pump if so what pressure pump

Cheers

[agiyo]

Most of the Spica damage done by unleaded gas happened in the first few years after lead was removed from the fuel, until the early '80s. Current gasoline has lubricity that works well with Spica pumps.

Another very important component of the Spica system is the cooling system's thermostat. If you have removed your thermostat, or are running a low-temp one, your TA will not extend fully and you'll run rich, wasting gas, polluting and never getting optimum mixture.

So, when you test your TA's temperature in hot water, be sure it reaches full extension at your engine's operating temperature.

And, when you replace the Spica oil filter, be REALLY delicate with those little studs/nuts. They'll twist right off.

Joe

Sono lento, ma sono brutto

[AlfaRich]

Can anyone tell me how to get the filters? Thanks.
I had a failed throttle position switch at the FI pump and since we are digging around there thought we should replace the filter.
Thanks,
Rich

[Roadtrip]

On the oil filters, call Centerline and/or IAP. I think the manufacturers make these things in batches, so you inevitably have shortages periodically. I usually keep several on hand.

By "throttle position switch", I assume you mean the "Fuel Cutoff Microswitch", which is the correct nomenclature. When replacing the microswitch, be careful of the small rubber grommet over the push pin. Those are "no longer available" . . . . . period-dot. Only salvage.

While the pump is off the car, you should take some time to drain the old oil, clean, and inspect it. Don't forget to fill it with fresh engine oil after you install it. I recommend that you put a tag on it to remind you to do this. It's VERY easy to overlook after installing.