Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Central New York USA
Idle Air Inlet Port "O" Ring. How to check it, replace it?
Adjusting my Idle Air inlet port does not seem to make all that much difference. I have read that a deteriorated O ring in there may be the cause.
What are the specs. on this o ring?
Also, second question: I replaced the TA on my 79 SPICA Alfa Spider this past week with a rebuilt one from Wes Ingram. Following the instructions in the Ingram SPICA manual, I was able to solve all of my over rich problems.
The only two issues I need help and advice on to tweak is:
A) cold start takes two or three attempts,...then the rest of the warm up is just fine.
B) When up to temperature, at idle, there is a regular (every four seconds interval) slight drop or 'miss" . I am thinking I have the idle mixture too lean.
Or I have the long rod adjusted too long although I set it to 11 3/4" ball center to ball center as in the Ingram SPICA manual.
Are there any interactive further adjustments to the Long Rod? and is the only thing controlling Idle speed the setting of the Air bleed through the Air Idle port?
NOTE: Wes does a beautiful job restoring this stuff. Two Issues: To everyone out there, your old TA or any old ones you have around have great value to the rest of us since, in the proper hands, can be restored and put back into service for some needy SPICA system. Same is true of the Idle Cut out solenoid. Take great care when tightening or loosening the castleated nut. These things are like gold and should be treated very carefully. If you can not loosen the nut, then the advice is to remove the casting from the pump and send the whole unit, casting, Solenoid and all into Wes Ingrams.
I was lucky in that mine was loose.