Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Rapid City SD, Black Hills of South Dakota, Queens NY
So, even with the check valve out (but the check valve seat still in), you didn't get fuel into that barrel when you rotated the pump with the fuel supply pump running???? When you pulled the little check valve up, was there any fuel at all below it down in the bore?
As far as the oil leak goes, I guess that explains why the Logic Section was dry. The leak could be coming from four places . . .
1. The large nut on the bottom right rear of the pump. This is the "well" where the little Cold Start Solenoid hydraulic piston resides. It's got a brass washer to seal it. Feel down there and make sure it's actually there and tight.
2. Another possibility is the rubber grommet that covers the actuator pin for the Fuel Cutoff Microswitch . . . Although I think that'd be a pretty slow leak. How long did it take for the oil to dump?
3. The throttle arm plate (3 screws) on the rear of the pump is loose.
4. The entire Logic Section casting is loose.
Regardless, that oil leak has to be fixed. Running the Logic Section in dust instead of oil will kill it a lot sooner than later.
Well, I think I've taken you about to the limits of my ability to help over the internet. Just want to be sure that all the obvious/easy things were checked before packing it off for rebuild.
While you're waiting, I'd recommend that you go through the whole fuel system and make sure it's very clean, hoses are in replaced, etc. The fuel system guide you downloaded should help, although it's not Montreal specific.
As far as a rebuilder goes, you might contact some of the ones mentioned in the Montreal website over on the Continent to see if they're still doing SPICA rebuilds and what the cost would be. I'd also send Wes Ingram an email and see if he has any suggestions on the problem and if you should send the injectors in also to be checked. I doubt seriously if he has a rebuild on-the-shelf since Montreals are so rare. He'd probably have to wait for your unit and rebuild it rather than exhange. Usually once he gets it, it takes a couple of weeks to get it done. Recently I helped "Rosenmoller" on the BB here get a rebuild from Wes. You should drop him a PM and get his opinion on how he likes Wes Ingram's rebuilds and the customs/duty and shipping cost aspects.
The advantage of a rebuild would be that you know that the pump is going to be good for a very very long time, since you're going to take good care of it unlike the previous owner.
Before removing the injection pump, you'll want to rotate the engine so the timing marks on the injection pump and pulley line up with the engine crankshaft pointer at the "I" (for iniezione, transl. injection) on the crankshaft. I'd also recommend fitting a new SPICA injection pump drive belt when re-installing. Also:
1. Be extra careful when removing the Thermostatic Actuator (T/A). That small pipe is easily kinked, which will ruin it. I'd recommend that you remove the entire T/A and set it aside in a very safe place. Also, you'll want to do a bench check (heat the coolant end of it in hot water and check the extension of the pump end against the spec shee) of it before you send the pump off for rebuild. If it checks bad, it will have to be sent along with the pump for rebuilt also.
2. I believe that the whole pump is held on by a bracket with two bolts in the rear and the six nuts holding the front pump section on.
Drop me a PM when you decide what to do. BTW, what's your first name? Sometimes I feel like I'm talking to a machine with knowing someone's name.
Good luck. Don't get discouraged. You're going through what a lot of new Alfa owners go through. Cleaning up and fixing the messes of previous owners. I'd love to have your Montreal, even if it's broken right now. Post us a picture of it.
Last edited by Roadtrip; 03-20-2005 at 01:05 PM.