Rear Axle Rebuild III

[Keven]

Well its been a while since I have updated my rear axle rebuild.
But finally finished my deck, and have had some time to work on it.

Here's links to the last post I did on this:

Rear Axle Rebuild Part I
Rear Axle Rebuild II
Differential/LSD Measurements
LSD Rebuild

I started by putting back together the LSD unit.
I had a slight setback when I overtorqued the hex bolts that hold it all
together. These are specialty bolts that are pretty hard to find.
They are made by Tensilok, and have serrations that lock them in place.
I finally found some at www.mcmaster.com, I love those guys, I place
an order and get it within two days(UPS ground)!!

Here's a photo of a destroyed bolt, they tools you will need, Prussian blue or
High spot blue, and my home made pinion bolt removal tool.

[Keven]

Heres, pics of the pinion bearing race press made by a machinist buddy,
pic of the LSD in the carrier, and a pic of how the blue looks once the
gears mesh against each other.

[Keven]

whoops wrong pics, and some repeats. Sorry.
Let me try this again...

[Keven]

OK, gotta get a picture of the pinion bearing race press tool.
Also note that the marks on the ring gear look like they are
centered to high, I think I may have to adjust the shims.
This is kinda interesting since I measured the distance of the
pinion to the center of the carrier bearing before and after
I changed the pinion bearing, and the measurements are the same.
And within 0.20mm of the factory spec. Any comments on this
would be appreciated.

To do the blue marks I had to temporarily install one axle tube, and
torque the bolts to spec, and rotate the pinion several revolutions,
then dissasemble and look at the marks.

I do have a final question, how does this diff ventilate? Most diffs
I have seen have vents, but I cant seem to see one on this one.

[sono veL.O.ce]

I think you will find a ventilation tube on one of the axle tubes.
nice work there, did you pack in any extra clutch plates fo rmore lockout? whats your final drive?

[Keven]

Sono,

I did not pack any extra plates, since its going to be a street car.
I was worried about binding or chirping while making turns.
I looked at the tubes, and have yet to find a vent.

I forgot to list what the tools that are above(clockwise from top):
1)Torque wrench with special castellated socket from IAP to remove
the pinion nut. I believe the torque spec on the pinion nut is 60-80 ft-lbs

2)Home made pinion bearing race press. This was made form 3" aluminum
round stock on a lathe. I think the bearing race taper angle is 22 Deg.
A 3/4" bolt nut and washers are torqued to press the races it.

3)brass hammer and punch (make sure not to use steel ones, since these
can mar threaded surfaces.) I used the brass hammer and punch to
remove the pinion bearing races, and to drive out the pinion once the nut
was off.

4)Pinion nut removal tool, this is just some scrap aluminum stock that has
been cut and welded and drilled to fit the pinion flange. It prevents the
pinion from moving as you remove/install the pinion nut.

I plan on using some Honda liquid gasket for the case to axle tube mating
surfaces. I heard that this stuff works great, it better at $19 bucks a tube!!
The Honda part number is 08717-0001

Also I was able to find spacers/shims at Mcmaster as well. I have a pretty
good assortment of extras, so if anyone needs a few PM me.

Im thinking of having the axle tubes powder coated, well see how much they
want for this.

Once I finish assembly, I'll post a final write up.

[PSk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keven Im thinking of having the axle tubes powder coated, well see how much they want for this.

[1166]

For the sealer, try Yamabond 4, available at any Yahama dealer for about $8.00 a tube. I used this on all the diffs & transmissions I reseal for the last 15 years and it works great. I lightly install the parts and give the final torque the next day.

1166