Good base for epoxy?

[SeekGTV]

I'm doing some interior restoration work on my 64 spider and the old screw holes used to hold down the snaps, mats and ashtray are to big from old age, wear and rust. I'm going to fill them with machinable epoxy and redrill.

My question is, will Eastwoods rust encapsulator provide a good base for this?


Link to the original post for more info:
Winter Project

[GTD]

George,
I noticed the floor work you were doing and thought, he really ought to sandblast that rust. But not everyone has a sandblast setup nor wants to deal with the mess. If you've got an air compressor, here's a tool that lets the average guy eliminate the rust with minimal investment.
http://www.tooldesk.com/products/pro...il.aspx?id=688
These are sold in auto parts stores as well. With a little common sense and careful tarping and masking you can control the amount of abrasive that gets spread around to a manageable level. As with any media blasting - wear appropriate eye and breathing protection.

By eliminating, rather than encapsulating rust, your free to apply protective coatings to solid metal rather than attaching it to HOPE. Your choice of POR15 for sealing the floors is a good one. For any pin holes, try a layer of Metal-2-Metal, sold by Eastwood and others.

Your plan for machinable epoxy at enlarged screw holes should work but nothing compares to welding the holes and attaching to metal.

As far as using the original Jute matting- even Alfa decided there were better materials available. Think about where the moisture goes when your restored baby gets rained on unexpectedly - how do you get the moisture OUT of the Jute? Use an up to date - sound deadening mat.

[SeekGTV]

Thanks for the idea's and opinion GTD. I think the metal-2-metal will solve some of my smaller issues and I'll use the por for the larger areas.

That sandblasting gun is very interesting; but, I think it would be a bit of over kill in the small area I'm working in. So far I've been lucky, I haven't run into anything that a wirebrush and elbow grease can't handle. (OK I cheated and used a power drillbrush some of the time)

I'll have to think about the jute. I'd kinda like to keep it as original as possible and it will be garaged. What you're saying makes a lot of sense, though. Have to think on this one!

[GTD]

George, You've got an Alfa, those "small areas" keep showing up!

[SeekGTV]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTD George, You've got an Alfa, those "small areas" keep showing up!

[GTD]

Quote:

isn't that's what winter is for?

[Touringspider]

In my experience, POR-15 is a stronger and more abrasion and impact resistant product than the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. I use both of them and they are both fine products, but I would lean towards the POR in a floorpan application like yours. The suggestion to use the Metal to Metal is a good one. I have not used it personally, but Eastwood claims you can drill and tap it.

Arno Leskinen
AROC National Concours Chair
102
115
116

[SeekGTV]

Spoke with the tech people at Eastwood. They recommended sanding the surface of the encapsulator with with some 180 grit and then lighlty wiping with a solvent covered rag. The prepared suface should then be ready to accept the metal to metal filler or epoxy.

I gave it a try today and I have to say I was impressed how well the encapsulator stuck. I've used it in the past; but, I never tired to remove it. Holds up well to sandpaper. Only time will tell how well it holds up to the elements and if rust will resurface.

I will post an update with a pic or two in my 'winter project' post on the giulietta forum in a couple days. There is a link to it in the first post on this thread.