Rust Remover - Page 4

NHRAdragRACER · #46 (**permalink**) 06-23-2006, 03:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Farace

Okay, here's a question. Let's say you have a part that for whatever reason can't be submerged in the stuff, and you can't really set up a pump to run over it. Can you soak a cloth in it, wrap it around, and wrap it in plastic to keep it from drying? One part I've got in mind is the stalk of my headlight switch. Can't really disassemble it, can't dunk it. I suppose it could be taken apart to some extent, but that involves removing the steering wheel, etc. . . . I'd rather wrap it to soak it if that will work.

grizzly · #47 (**permalink**) 06-23-2006, 03:48 AM

Yes, wrapping it with a cloth soaked in this stuff is an option. The trick is keeping it moist - that's why the other stuff was shown with a continuous circulation of the stuff. For light rust, the instructions say it can be removed/converted in about fifteen minutes, but I always use a least a couple hours - more doesn't seem to hurt it. If you wrapped it with a cloth, keep soaking it every 15 minutes for an hour, maybe even wrap the stalk with plastic wrap to it from drying out. After its done, you will need to "rinse" the rust remover off somehow - wipe, or maybe light pressure directed water flow. For the later, I use the sink.

grizzly · #48 (**permalink**) 06-23-2006, 05:00 AM

http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html

I found the original stuff I bought

AlfaJam · #49 (**permalink**) 06-30-2006, 06:16 PM

Word of caution...

I beautifully restored a FIAT 124 Sport Coupe in the early nineties using an acid based rust remover in the early nineties and flushed the entire vehicle in a Baking Soda solution to neutralize. Externally, there could not have been a more rust free example when the car split 6 mnths later at the base of the A pillar (both sides) and the front of the door aperture. It had permeated the seams and continued to work from the inside.

Technology will have changed, but if it's strong enough to eradicate rust be careful.

AlfaJam

**sono veL.O.ce** · #50 (**permalink**) 07-01-2006, 05:24 PM

Farace...
The signal swich is easily de-rusted and polished up with scotch-brite and or sandpaper. It only took me about 10 minutes to get a brilliant shine.

**Farace** · #51 (**permalink**) 07-01-2006, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sono veL.O.ce

Farace...
The signal swich is easily de-rusted and polished up with scotch-brite and or sandpaper. It only took me about 10 minutes to get a brilliant shine.

**Alex** · #52 (**permalink**) 07-02-2006, 12:28 AM

The question of how to restore the chromed arms of the turn signal switches is probably one which deserves a whole new thread. For some reason, people have expressed dissatisfaction with the new reproductions coming from AFRA, but how to get the black plastic ends off the arms is a question to which I've found no answer, short of rubbing back and then painting with a chrome-effect product.

Take a look at these products offered by Bilt-Hamber* in the UK, we might be talking about an identical rust removal product. I've always used a product called Kurust once a part has been media blasted etc, before using good old Rustoleum as an undercoat (this needs at least a week or so to dry before applying anything on top). B-H offer an alternative to Kurust called Hydrate-80 which has performed well in German TUV tests.

Alex.

* As an aside, don't be tempted by their clay bars to clean off paint contaminants, it leaves a nasty white residue in the nooks and crannies, use the Meguiar's product instead.

101/105guy · #53 (**permalink**) 07-02-2006, 09:28 AM

Like most reproduction parts, the turn signal swiches are poorly made. Mine started loosing detent balls after about a week and is basicaly junk!

PSk · #54 (**permalink**) 07-02-2006, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlfaJam

Word of caution...

I beautifully restored a FIAT 124 Sport Coupe in the early nineties using an acid based rust remover in the early nineties and flushed the entire vehicle in a Baking Soda solution to neutralize. Externally, there could not have been a more rust free example when the car split 6 mnths later at the base of the A pillar (both sides) and the front of the door aperture. It had permeated the seams and continued to work from the inside.

Technology will have changed, but if it's strong enough to eradicate rust be careful.

AlfaJam

**Farace** · #55 (**permalink**) 09-16-2006, 07:04 AM

Did anything ever happen with the tests of this stuff?

pepiot · #56 (**permalink**) 09-17-2006, 05:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pepiot

do you have any french distributor ?

GTVnut · #57 (**permalink**) 09-17-2006, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pepiot

i am surprised ,no news , is there any problems

gtv11636 · #58 (**permalink**) 09-17-2006, 05:20 PM

Was wondering also.
The company sent me an e mail regarding samples etc...
then I got back to them few times, but they never returned my e mails

**papajam** · #59 (**permalink**) 09-17-2006, 05:54 PM

I'll take the heat on this one. 'Ol papajam completely forgot about it. I'll get it in the works..........again.

**Dr.G** · #60 (**permalink**) 09-17-2006, 08:44 PM

I'll post my results! I received some free sample and dipped my rear axle parts in it. It worked pretty well. There was some residual rust that didn't come off with the first treatment, so it needed a second dipping but my solution was all blackened, and not enough left for a good second dip. Overall, works pretty well, but may take more than one dip (besides me). Legit product, good guy. Don't give him anything but kudos, he followed through and this is a legit product. Nothing is perfect, especially me.