Rocker Restoration and Rust Repair Questions

RI VELOCE · #1 (**permalink**) 10-10-2009, 07:09 AM

I have a 1984 Spider and have decided to jump in with both feet and do some rust repair on the car. I've never done anything like this before. I bought a grinder yesterday and will buy a mig welder soon. My question is how do you know how to cut say the rocker panels so the new piece fits? Do you place the new panel over the existing metal and mark it? If I cut rusted areas out, how do I make the new piece fit in the hole that I cut? I've noticed that many use cardboard but how do you size the cardboard when you can't get behind the hole you cut? I have looked at many many threads on this topic but have never seen how you cut the pieces to the size needed. Just in case anyone wants to tell me to take it to a restorer, that's not happening! I really want to learn how to do this kind of work. Do I need to remove my convertible top, carpet and seats to do the rockers? Is there a difference in the IAP panels and the Wolf Steel panels? I noticed that the Wolf site says their panels are for Duettos and Kam Tails. I have a duck tail.

**andy303** · #2 (**permalink**) 10-10-2009, 07:51 AM

Rhode Island: The rockers (or sills as they are sometimes referred to) are the main structural member holding the two ends of the car together, providing a composite beam section made up of several individual pieces. There are numerous threads on this topic which you have probably seen.

Unfortunately once rust is visible on the surface rocker panel, the panels behind need extensive work as well, in which case you need to peel back the covering panel to repair the damage behind first, working your way from the inside to the outside. I think to truly sort out the scope of your problem you will want to remove the carpets just to ascertain the condition of the floor pan and the inside of the sill structure. I would remove the carpets, seats, door panels and other trim likely to be damaged by flying sparks from grinding tools and welding slag.

If the sill is really weak the doors may bind as the body sags, in which case many restorers temporarily weld a length of channel steel across the door opening to keep things aligned.

Check out Bill77s excellent restoration thread. Starting around Page 6 he gets into rocker repair: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/car-...rogress-7.html

BTW the rockers and floor pans are the same for the Duetto, Kamm tails, right through the end of production. The "duck tail" just refers to our lovely hunk of rubber on the trunk lid.

RI VELOCE · #3 (**permalink**) 10-10-2009, 08:17 AM

I read all of Bill77's excellent thread and am inspired. Are there any pros or cons of the IAP panels vs. the Wolf Steel rocker panels?

rafael · #4 (**permalink**) 10-11-2009, 03:41 AM

I used the commercially available reproduction panels, just to keep car original. Had to replace outer and middle sills, plus the power 4 centimeters from the inner sill.

RI VELOCE · #5 (**permalink**) 10-13-2009, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rafael

I used the commercially available reproduction panels, just to keep car original. Had to replace outer and middle sills, plus the power 4 centimeters from the inner sill.

rafael · #6 (**permalink**) 10-14-2009, 12:10 PM

Have a look at this thread

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/car-...ts-detail.html

I ordered the pieces in the Netherlands. Let me know if you want the website of this company.

RI VELOCE · #7 (**permalink**) 10-14-2009, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rafael

Have a look at this thread

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/car-...ts-detail.html

I ordered the pieces in the Netherlands. Let me know if you want the website of this company.

mikem · #8 (**permalink**) 10-15-2009, 10:04 AM

Hi RI Veloce,
The cross section in the link is for a GT, here is the link Sill Cross Section
(at Wolf Steel) for the spider. The outer rocker welds to the top of the middle rocker, and to the bottom of the inner. One thing to note is that most reproduction rockers are straight from front to back, while the original panel, like the door, have a very slight curve.
Another important piece of information is that the middle and inner rockers are 16 gauge, while the outer rockers are 20 (original) or 22 (thinner reproductions). You can buy sheet metal at Lowes or home depot for a lot of the smaller patches, much cheaper than buying repro panels.
Where are you in RI? I'm from western Cranston... I have a white Duetto, have I seen you around?
Mike

RI VELOCE · #9 (**permalink**) 10-15-2009, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikem

Hi RI Veloce,
The cross section in the link is for a GT, here is the link Sill Cross Section
(at Wolf Steel) for the spider. The outer rocker welds to the top of the middle rocker, and to the bottom of the inner. One thing to note is that most reproduction rockers are straight from front to back, while the original panel, like the door, have a very slight curve.
Another important piece of information is that the middle and inner rockers are 16 gauge, while the outer rockers are 20 (original) or 22 (thinner reproductions). You can buy sheet metal at Lowes or home depot for a lot of the smaller patches, much cheaper than buying repro panels.
Where are you in RI? I'm from western Cranston... I have a white Duetto, have I seen you around?
Mike

mikem · #10 (**permalink**) 10-17-2009, 12:12 PM

I have a set of "straight" rockers that I bought ages ago. I think they are pretty typical of aftermarket rockers. International Auto parts lists 2 different rockers, one for about $60 and one that say "full length as original" for about $120 ea. As I said, I haven't bought or installed these, but these are probably the correct curved rockers. I would call and ask before buying, as they are pricey. On the other hand, I had pretty good success by trimming all but the first fold off the top of my rocker, and welding along that flange. I started with the center (with the door in place to check allignment) and then pushed the ends in with big C-clamps until the alignment was right. Then I welded it the rest of the way. Having the right panels make life much easier, but almost anything still takes a lot of tweaking and adjusting to make the panels line up.
Mike

RI VELOCE · #11 (**permalink**) 10-18-2009, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikem

I have a set of "straight" rockers that I bought ages ago. I think they are pretty typical of aftermarket rockers. International Auto parts lists 2 different rockers, one for about $60 and one that say "full length as original" for about $120 ea. As I said, I haven't bought or installed these, but these are probably the correct curved rockers. I would call and ask before buying, as they are pricey. On the other hand, I had pretty good success by trimming all but the first fold off the top of my rocker, and welding along that flange. I started with the center (with the door in place to check allignment) and then pushed the ends in with big C-clamps until the alignment was right. Then I welded it the rest of the way. Having the right panels make life much easier, but almost anything still takes a lot of tweaking and adjusting to make the panels line up.
Mike