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Old 05-16-2007, 08:55 PM
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Talking 1983 Sud Track Car Project

Well i have always loved the Ti sud's, ever since my mum had one when they first came out i always wanted one.
I have spent the last four and a half years doing up my 16v and it is DONE!! well thats what i'm telling myself anyway.

I bought a 1983 sud Ti for $150...yes i know it was cheap and everything was working too and wait for it..no rust in the usual places. It had been treated for rust prevention from factory on demand.
It was a pitty to strip such a nice car but i just want a nice track car.

Plans are as follows:
- 1700cc twin carb with race cams, decked heads and ported heads
- Koni yellows's, nolathanes all round, k-mac stabilizers, and k-mac springs
- Custom outboard front brake setup with hydralic hanbrake and bias valve.
- 16v suspension arms, struts, firewall bars, front hubs, and CV's.
- 1200 gearbox matched to suit the 16v CV's (just needs spacers)
- Full cage
- Custom dash and centre console
- colour coded bumpers and rear wing

Pretty much up to now everything is stripped and ready to go back in but i am leaving the engine till last, kinda want to concentrate on the suspension and brake setup first as it is such an important part of it.




Ill put more pics up as it comes along, should be done for the first sprint in 2008 (march)
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Old 05-16-2007, 09:54 PM
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hughqv hughqv is offline
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Looking pretty clean michael. I don't see any underbody shots yet, hope the detail has been carried throughout! haha
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Old 05-16-2007, 10:10 PM
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Have to do those shots at night, too much reflection from the glossy hahaha nah still have to paint it all
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Old 05-16-2007, 10:59 PM
Spooty22 Spooty22 is offline
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I could only recommend Nolathane for the sway bar bushes, nothing else, it is just too HARD. It will crack every part of your chassis that can be cracked. I speak from experience. I have recently changed my road car back to rubber and find it much better!

Also, because the sud rear axle acts as a torsion bar (ie sway bar) stiffening up the bushes makes it a giant rear sway bar. I also speak from experience, as my road sud once spat me off a roundabout backwards! It oversteered before it understeered, something I was not expecting. Also, taking a corner quickly on the road once caused the rear of the car to 'hop' about half a metre sideways! Scary. This happened a further time, but I overcorrected with oppy lock and almost wiped out an Astra in the next lane. That was the last straw. I put rubber back in the rear of the car, and have found it to be much safer, more predictable, and actually quicker through the corners.

This is ok If you can balance the car out with a bigger front sway bar - but for road cars stay away from poly.

Last edited by Spooty22; 05-16-2007 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 05-16-2007, 11:52 PM
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fly33boxer fly33boxer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooty22 View Post
I could only recommend Nolathane for the sway bar bushes, nothing else, it is just too HARD. It will crack every part of your chassis that can be cracked. I speak from experience. I have recently changed my road car back to rubber and find it much better!

Also, because the sud rear axle acts as a torsion bar (ie sway bar) stiffening up the bushes makes it a giant rear sway bar. I also speak from experience, as my road sud once spat me off a roundabout backwards! It oversteered before it understeered, something I was not expecting. Also, taking a corner quickly on the road once caused the rear of the car to 'hop' about half a metre sideways! Scary. This happened a further time, but I overcorrected with oppy lock and almost wiped out an Astra in the next lane. That was the last straw. I put rubber back in the rear of the car, and have found it to be much safer, more predictable, and actually quicker through the corners.

This is ok If you can balance the car out with a bigger front sway bar - but for road cars stay away from poly.
I totally disagree with that.. everyone seems to think they are too stiff..bollocks i have been running them for two years and raced my car for a year and there is not one crack.
Also you have to be carefull where you put them eg not in the panhard rod to absorb the jolt when a slide is caught and the bushes in the front crossmember should stay rubber or as i have done rose joint. because the are designed to go up and down.
And i am aware that the rear arms do twist in a way but if the bushes are greased regularly they will perform.
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Old 05-17-2007, 12:43 AM
Spooty22 Spooty22 is offline
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They are quite good for the track, but I have heard of people breaking watts linkages. I still say that for road use (from my personal experience) - stay away.

But the road is a very different place to a track! If you have found them to be good on your track car - definitely keep using them

Agree with you that location is important - not good for the panhard rod, not good for the front trailing arms. Good for the front rear mounting points though.

I'm interested in your rose joint idea - sounds good.
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Old 05-17-2007, 02:53 AM
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looking very nice! $150 bucks is an absolute steal though! - well done
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Old 05-17-2007, 03:07 AM
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If you don't mind... I'm going to disagree with the pair of you

My 33 is running the (slightly softer compound) Noltec poly bushes front & rear. Everywhere - Including the panhard rod & front trailing arms.

Sure, the NVH is a little bit worse than the original rubber but it's not harsh - the wife drives the car to work daily (except at the moment because of the blown-up motor i'm fixing...) and we also do long distances in it - With the obvious deviations for thrashing along bendy roads

We've had no issues with parts bending or breaking, with the exception of 2 tiny cracks just starting to develop on the holes where the steering arms pass through, which I highly doubt are the result of the bushes - most likely culprits are the Kings springs & Koni's, combined with sh**ty rural roads...

It's also very predictable in it's handling since fitting them & considering I do have a tendancy to go wild on back roads, I find it a bit more reassuring that it's not going to leave the road backwards quite as easily...

Anyway, that's my 2 cents. Take it how you may.
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Old 05-17-2007, 03:09 AM
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By the way - I'm going green over the 'Sud pics I'd have been pleased with the looks before the resto personally.... Can't wait to see it when it goes
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Old 05-17-2007, 07:06 AM
Spooty22 Spooty22 is offline
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I think the stiffness of the poly very much depends upon which brand you use. Some are a little stiffer than rubber, others almost like stone.

The one's I was using were blue, so I think superpro. I can't be certain as the car came with them - I didn't buy them.

If someone can tell me a poly bush that is relatively soft, just a bit firmer than rubber, I may consider them.

Good luck with the track car, that's the best looking $150 sud I've ever seen.
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Old 05-17-2007, 06:17 PM
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Just another pic of the components to go back in, mix of 16v and sud parts...mmmmm shiny.. it will probably turn into another show car
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Old 05-17-2007, 10:11 PM
budweiser_sud budweiser_sud is offline
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Great work Michael!

Are you going to run Alfasud discs/calipers on the backend?
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Old 05-17-2007, 10:13 PM
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Nice one Michael! Its a nice base to start on thats for sure, quite a tidy looking car. You paid $150 for it, that reminds me of the Sud I bought off your dad for $150 (same model but red) it had maybe a little more rust than yours but its still here!
Knowing you it will be prepped to a high standard, and good on you! It'll be a joy! I'll come out and watch you in 2008!
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Old 05-17-2007, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by budweiser_sud View Post
Great work Michael!

Are you going to run Alfasud discs/calipers on the backend?
Yea ill run the sud discs calipers on the rear with an 'in line' hydralic handbrake with an inline brake pressure reducer and a bias valve. Plus the outboard setup on the front end, i currently have this setup on the 16v and work too good..
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Old 05-17-2007, 10:57 PM
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nice work
what did you do for the lower ball joint?
it looks like its still studded in
has anybody ever replaced one of them?
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