
06-29-2012, 03:53 AM
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Debrecen,Hungary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [HUN]Gery83
Köszönöm!
Are you a member of AlfaAmore.hu?
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Szivesen!
Unfortunately not,my hungarian is not that good!
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07-01-2012, 06:59 AM
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![[HUN]Gery83's Avatar](http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/customavatars/avatar4658_1.gif) |
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Europe / Hungary
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How come that you live in Hungary?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klevyn
Szivesen!
Unfortunately not,my hungarian is not that good!
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07-01-2012, 07:02 AM
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Debrecen,Hungary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [HUN]Gery83
How come that you live in Hungary?
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I'm a medical student!
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07-01-2012, 07:06 AM
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![[HUN]Gery83's Avatar](http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/customavatars/avatar4658_1.gif) |
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klevyn
I'm a medical student!
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Oh, I see. I would never thought of that.
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07-01-2012, 07:12 AM
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![[HUN]Gery83's Avatar](http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/customavatars/avatar4658_1.gif) |
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07-01-2012, 07:36 PM
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Sorry to be potentially blunt, but if you don't move that engine back instead of extending the gear lever (or as well as) you really are going to end up with a poor handling car.
Since you will not have front axles to worry about the engine could go right back against the front bulkhead, just cut the battery and heater area away and replace the strength lost with a strut brace tube structure. Then you will end up with a traditional front engine location (on the front axle line instead of infront of it), but with the added advantage of the lower CoG.
Otherwise I cannot really see the point of this project. These cars handle large horsepower poorly because they are front wheel drive but ALSO because there is too much weight on the front axle because the engine is in front of it. So yes converting to rear wheel drive will take part of the front tyre torture away but it will still understeer poorly due to poor chassis balance.
A lot of racing Suds remove that battery and heater area just for better access for their mechanics anyway ... so no big deal to cut it away.
Best
Pete
__________________
ps: Remember it's all just opinions 
'71 1750 Series 2 GTV: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?p=208078
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07-02-2012, 02:39 AM
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Thanks for the advice!
I need to get a proper TIG welder first.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PSk
Sorry to be potentially blunt, but if you don't move that engine back instead of extending the gear lever (or as well as) you really are going to end up with a poor handling car.
Since you will not have front axles to worry about the engine could go right back against the front bulkhead, just cut the battery and heater area away and replace the strength lost with a strut brace tube structure. Then you will end up with a traditional front engine location (on the front axle line instead of infront of it), but with the added advantage of the lower CoG.
Otherwise I cannot really see the point of this project. These cars handle large horsepower poorly because they are front wheel drive but ALSO because there is too much weight on the front axle because the engine is in front of it. So yes converting to rear wheel drive will take part of the front tyre torture away but it will still understeer poorly due to poor chassis balance.
A lot of racing Suds remove that battery and heater area just for better access for their mechanics anyway ... so no big deal to cut it away.
Best
Pete
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07-02-2012, 04:58 AM
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Location: Sydney Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [HUN]Gery83
Thanks for the advice!
I need to get a proper TIG welder first. 
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Cheap gas welder works very well too.
Pete
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ps: Remember it's all just opinions 
'71 1750 Series 2 GTV: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?p=208078
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07-02-2012, 06:41 AM
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I'm thinking about this since a few hours, and there is a big problem with your solution. I can not cut away that whole piece, because the chassics number is located on it. So if I cut it away, there is no chance that I get a license plate for my car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PSk
Sorry to be potentially blunt, but if you don't move that engine back instead of extending the gear lever (or as well as) you really are going to end up with a poor handling car.
Since you will not have front axles to worry about the engine could go right back against the front bulkhead, just cut the battery and heater area away and replace the strength lost with a strut brace tube structure. Then you will end up with a traditional front engine location (on the front axle line instead of infront of it), but with the added advantage of the lower CoG.
Otherwise I cannot really see the point of this project. These cars handle large horsepower poorly because they are front wheel drive but ALSO because there is too much weight on the front axle because the engine is in front of it. So yes converting to rear wheel drive will take part of the front tyre torture away but it will still understeer poorly due to poor chassis balance.
A lot of racing Suds remove that battery and heater area just for better access for their mechanics anyway ... so no big deal to cut it away.
Best
Pete
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07-02-2012, 04:53 PM
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sydney Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [HUN]Gery83
I'm thinking about this since a few hours, and there is a big problem with your solution. I can not cut away that whole piece, because the chassics number is located on it. So if I cut it away, there is no chance that I get a license plate for my car. 
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Can you fit the engine under the chassis number and just cut away the rest of this box area? Maybe turn this chassis number member into a neat looking strut brace .
Oh well, as you are making a road car, if you cannot do this you cannot do it ... pity. Compromise is part of life! 
Pete
__________________
ps: Remember it's all just opinions 
'71 1750 Series 2 GTV: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?p=208078
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07-03-2012, 01:17 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSk
Sorry to be potentially blunt, but if you don't move that engine back instead of extending the gear lever (or as well as) you really are going to end up with a poor handling car.
Since you will not have front axles to worry about the engine could go right back against the front bulkhead, just cut the battery and heater area away and replace the strength lost with a strut brace tube structure. Then you will end up with a traditional front engine location (on the front axle line instead of infront of it), but with the added advantage of the lower CoG.
Otherwise I cannot really see the point of this project. These cars handle large horsepower poorly because they are front wheel drive but ALSO because there is too much weight on the front axle because the engine is in front of it. So yes converting to rear wheel drive will take part of the front tyre torture away but it will still understeer poorly due to poor chassis balance.
A lot of racing Suds remove that battery and heater area just for better access for their mechanics anyway ... so no big deal to cut it away.
Best
Pete
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In standard-ish configuration I would agree. But saying they cant handle high amounts of hp as a blanket statement is pushing it.
In the NSW alfa club alone:
Steve Downie's 300hp+ Turbo Alfasud has embarrassed some huge dollar cars.
There was the "flying pizza box" supercharged sud that was a monster (when running)
In the UK there is the AH motorsports prepared Sprint that its 320+ HP that I've seen videos of on the track monstering a 700hp Aston.
There is also Adie Hawkins' 33 which is also over 300hp which has won the UK Alfa championship.
All of these cars are still FWD. Granted these are race cars, I can say however that the first car in particular has retained a lot of original components and is by no means completely a re-engineered race special.
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07-03-2012, 02:59 AM
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My 180hp Sud was as quick as highly modified Lotus Cortina's in NZ racing, and it was not that modified. Just springs and shocks, extra negative camber, brake pads and horsepower, Alfetta rear calipers (handbrake on the rear) and brake balance adjusted, minus trim, etc.
For the first couple of laps it would be right up there, admittedly with me driving 10/10ths, and then it would drift back each lap as the front tyres struggled, brakes (front brakes do ALL the work on a Sud).
The car was absolutely brilliant when it only had about 100-120hp and used to embarrass many, but with 180hp it wore itself out during a race.
I stuck the same motor in a space frame chassis + rear wheel drive with 20 more hp from better exhaust extractors and the resulting car was awesome. Perfect 50/50 weight distribution and it could sit on qualifying lap times all day long.
Yes front wheel drive technology has moved on since back in the 90's when I raced this car, but if you are going to convert a Sud chassis to rear wheel drive you just have to do as much as possible to move that very forward engine location back to get a better chassis balance.
I loved that little Sud, but I would never spend all the $'s to race another one. You could spend the same amount on say a Ford Escort, or maybe even an Alfetta, and end up with a far better race car.
Pete
__________________
ps: Remember it's all just opinions 
'71 1750 Series 2 GTV: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?p=208078
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07-03-2012, 04:01 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSk
My 180hp Sud was as quick as highly modified Lotus Cortina's in NZ racing, and it was not that modified. Just springs and shocks, extra negative camber, brake pads and horsepower, Alfetta rear calipers (handbrake on the rear) and brake balance adjusted, minus trim, etc.
For the first couple of laps it would be right up there, admittedly with me driving 10/10ths, and then it would drift back each lap as the front tyres struggled, brakes (front brakes do ALL the work on a Sud).
The car was absolutely brilliant when it only had about 100-120hp and used to embarrass many, but with 180hp it wore itself out during a race.
I stuck the same motor in a space frame chassis + rear wheel drive with 20 more hp from better exhaust extractors and the resulting car was awesome. Perfect 50/50 weight distribution and it could sit on qualifying lap times all day long.
Yes front wheel drive technology has moved on since back in the 90's when I raced this car, but if you are going to convert a Sud chassis to rear wheel drive you just have to do as much as possible to move that very forward engine location back to get a better chassis balance.
I loved that little Sud, but I would never spend all the $'s to race another one. You could spend the same amount on say a Ford Escort, or maybe even an Alfetta, and end up with a far better race car.
Pete
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I agree on the brakes, they aren't great standard but even a 33 16v brake upgrade fixes most problems in that regard.
I must say that I am yet to see a middle of the road (in terms of budget) race escort or alfetta (4 or 6 cyl) that has impressed me.
I think in one of the under 1600cc CAMS class if someone put half as much effort that goes into one of the front running 105's into a Sud or Sprint it would be a seriously competitive car.
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07-04-2012, 01:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 81Sprint
I think in one of the under 1600cc CAMS class if someone put half as much effort that goes into one of the front running 105's into a Sud or Sprint it would be a seriously competitive car.
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Well I cannot at all say the Sud is not a capable car, because on particularly wide open tracks where high speed is the go (such as airfields) my Sud used to humble many cars. It was just awesome through high speed corners, and there never appeared to be a top speed ceiling.
And yes FWD BTCC cars do well too. I just think with my sort of budget I could do better with particularly an Escort. Maybe the Alfetta comment was not correct. Ford prices and parts availability are so much better. With my club car I was able to have 4 different diff ratios for pocket money as it had a Escort rear axle.
The Sud engine is definitely head and shoulders better than a Nord, and a pushrod Ford Escort engine. Wonderful engines.
Pete
__________________
ps: Remember it's all just opinions 
'71 1750 Series 2 GTV: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?p=208078
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