Restoration of a Giulietta TI

[arco27]

OK guys (and gals) by now you probably all know that I bought a rusty Gliulietta TI on e-bay. If it would not be so rare I would give it to Sims Metal, but I guess it would be nice to have it repaired and running. Most of the time I seem to go overboard with my restorations, so this time I am going to try to keep things on a reasonable footing. There is not much information available on these cars so I probably need all the help I can get with information. If any of you have any documentation, parts manuals, repair manuals, colour charts, anything that you don't mind sharing it is all appreciated. So far I have started to dismantle the engine bay auxiliaries and exhaust. Every bolt I touch is rusted on solid and it will take tons of WD40 just to get everything loose and also lots of patience. I guess its good that I retired and do have some spare time.
I shall periodically update this thread with photos etc.
Here are some of the "raw material" I am starting with

[arco27]

Here are some more photos, turns out the car was born very dark blue, nearly black.
Does anybody know the difference between a 101 and a 105 1300cc engine?

[Threealfas]

Arco, this is a challenge but also pretty cool at the same time. Take a look at the thread that came from the Giulietta sprint boys, they are talking about the colour Blue and what is correct for a 101.

Colour: Tornado Blue

Also you need to get in touch with my very good mate Greg in South Africa. He is a good guy and really knows his pre 105 cars having owned quite a few of them. Greg's knowledge is amazing and he is a very friendly and helpful fella. Send him a PM tell him you know me and I am sure he would be more than willing to share with us Aussies what he knows on this subject. He also is bloody spot on with 105's too. Here is his handle on the BB, "AlfistiSA"

I think he only BB's on Weekdays, so try him late afternoon our time Monday arvo and see how you get on, he probably will join our thread.

Thanks,

Phil

[italiansedanman]

AS far as I am concerned, you're fixing it 'cos it aint going back up your driveway!

[beatle_bayly]

I'd say the Yahoo 750/101 forum is also handy. While rusty, she seems well intact with all the importanmt badgework etc. And you have enough interior remaining from which to copy patterns.

With all the mould, tree sap and staining rubbed off I bet she looks a lot more promising. Great find and good luck.

[Threealfas]

ARCO have you had a chance to contact Greg yet ?

[arco27]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Threealfas ARCO have you had a chance to contact Greg yet ?

[arco27]

Just a quick update. I spent most days this week under the car and in the engine bay, result the gearbox and engine are out and so are most of the auxiliaries like linkages, the booster, brake master cylinder etc. Most of the bolts are where rusted on solid, so it was a slow process. Some bolts where so bad that the actually broke. Yesterday I tool all the bright work off the front and the rear of the car. So she looks fairly plain and sad now, just an empty shel of her glorious self. The white respray was done so badly that it is peeling off by itself, revealing sort of a midnight blue colour. Non of the chrome was removed for spraying. All fun and games

[GoldCloverLeaf]

Nice work arco, good to see you are hooking straight into it!

[getagrip]

Quote:

Originally Posted by arco27 So she looks fairly plain and sad now

[Threealfas]

Arco are they Michelin XZX's on the 4R ?

[AlfistiSA]

Hi Arco

I thought I'd post the info I sent you for others to see.

This is a friend’s 3 grille Ti, the dark blue colour really shows off the chrome nicely.

The best thing I ever found to loosen rusty nuts was a pencil butane torch, small enough to just heat up the frozen nut, it helped me strip my ’35 Renault Cabrio, which was last on the road in ’67. It’s refillable from a butane aerosol can, just like a butane lighter. The advantage is the flame is small & easily controlled & there is minimal risk of damage to anything, The WD 40 or Q20 spray penetrates past the corrosion as it cools the nut. Heating & cooling with that freeze spray sounds like the best plan.

The lights are virtually the last thing to go back onto the car, for simplicity I use sealed beam lights which I buy at a friends Auto store, they are indistinguishable to the originals at 10 paces. I have Carello’s for most of my cars & restore them as I restore the cars. When you make your next trip to Italy, travel light, as you will need room for spares.

The motor looks like a 101 block, as it does not have the 2 bolts in the front of the cam cover & it has the alloy fan & the road draft tube down the back of the block, if the box is 4 speed, it's the original - the bell housing is correct, incidentally the 2 lumps on the LHS which take a vertical fitting, were for the column shift mechanism, but the bell housings are common to all the models. That is a RHD South African built Ti – can you give me the motor & body number & I’ll date it for you. (that's date as in year, not dinner & a movie...)

Ciao
Greig
Sunny South Africa – green after last week’s rain

[arco27]

Thanks guys for the encouragement. Pulling things to bits is sort of easy, the fun is going to start when I have to clean and repair.
*getagrip* the PO does not know any of the history of the car. All I have is the last NSW 1970 Rego Sticker. I know I ex Sydney guy who lives now near Nimbin who used to own a Giulietta TI and sold it a long time ago to someone in Qld. So far I have not been able to get hold of him (he drive4s a metallic olive green Berlina 2000 now), maybe it is the same Giulietta.
*Threealfas* The 4 R is shod with Pierelli Cinturato P3's 165/15, the spare tire is the original CEAT Drive 155/15 and has never been on the car. The TI is shod with English Pirelli CFC7 155/15.
Greig, thanks for the bolt loosening tips, I shall get myself one of those little blow torches. If it does not work on the bolts I can always use it on my creme brulee. Yeah, I know about normal sealed beams but being a stickler for originality I would love to have the Carellos. According to Fusi the car is definitely a 1960 CKD South African car, engine No. AR 00109.0092 and Chassis No. 10109.000177. Plus it has also a plate with the South African assembly No 44667, so I think that all numbers are correct for a 1960 car.
The blue on your friends car looks great, is it an AR colour? It is either going to be that or dark red, we will see in a few years time

[alfa2go]

Arco,
Are the initials of the near Nimbin guy GQ? He was the previous owner of my car so it wouldnt surprise me if he had another alfa before. If so I have his contact details.
Amazing how many alfas are hidden in the hills!

[getagrip]

Quote:

Originally Posted by alfa2go Arco, Are the initials of the near Nimbin guy GQ? He was the previous owner of my car so it wouldnt surprise me if he had another alfa before. If so I have his contact details. Amazing how many alfas are hidden in the hills!