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Old 05-19-2008, 07:08 AM
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lowmileage lowmileage is offline
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Seriously,

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Originally Posted by bcrdukes View Post
Just an update:

I made it down to Los Angeles going down the I-5. I encountered a few problems on the way:

1. The fuel light would blink every now and then and when it did, felt like the motor misfired or a better description would be that there was no fuel for a mere second.
2. Oil pressure was low at times. I think this may have had to do with the elevation.
3. Overheating - I think this was again, due to the elevation and it was stinkin' hot down the I-5, I suffered a pretty bad heat stroke multiple times. The drive down to LA took a while but in the end, I made it. On the way down, the water temp. gauge would stay between 212 and 260 with the overflow tank guzzling and boiling where some of it jumped onto the windshield.
Any leads on these issues would be awesome. Thanks!
1. I'd disconnect the hose from the tank and drain about a quart into a clear container to verify gunk and s*** is not in the tank - replace fuel filters - don't run tank low.
2. oil and filter change - gauge may be incorrect - verify reading temporarily with a modern gauge or permanently hook-up dual gauges, keeping your stock (and maybe inaccurate) gauge.
3. drain and flush system - replace with a 50/50 anti freeze mix- change theromostate and radiator/heater hoses.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2008, 09:12 AM
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SpiderWebb SpiderWebb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowmileage View Post
1. I'd disconnect the hose from the tank and drain about a quart into a clear container to verify gunk and s*** is not in the tank - replace fuel filters - don't run tank low.
Great advice. Don't run the tank low, because Alfa used the fuel to lubricate and cool things down. The fuel circulates from the tank to the SPICA and back in a loop. A full tank of gas on a hot day will keep the fuel cooler and it's an important thing to do. NEVER run the fuel tank dry! You will destroy the SPICA system. Others have said this on this bb, apparently from first hand experience.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lowmileage View Post
2. oil and filter change - gauge may be incorrect - verify reading temporarily with a modern gauge or permanently hook-up dual gauges, keeping your stock (and maybe inaccurate) gauge.
Once again, great advice. There are 3 fuel filters.
(1) A sock filter (inside the tank) on the end of the in-tank fuel pump.
(2) An in-line fuel filter just after the fuel tank. The odd 90-degree-bend-on-one-end factory filter seems to be 'no longer available'. You can reposition the filter so that the bend is no longer needed and use a normal straight one.
(3) Canister Fuel Filter up front, just under the intake system and next to the SPICA pump. This is an important one. The last line of defense for the SPICA. Work clean here.
I like feeling safe, so I'm replacing all of the rubber fuel line in my car. I only have the stuff up front left to do. It is said there is some kind of metered orofice in-line that maintains a certain FPM to reach the SPICA system. There are notes on it's cleaning and installation direction in one of Pat Bradens books (can't remember which one).

Quote:
Originally Posted by lowmileage View Post
3. drain and flush system - replace with a 50/50 anti freeze mix- change theromostate and radiator/heater hoses.
Great advice. Don't use tap water. The block is aluminum so it is said we should use 'distilled water'. Tech notes from a book somewhere in my brain say this is to avoid some kind of galvonic response? The drain plug is at the back of the block under the exhaust manifold. It is a brass plug. Study how to 'burp' the system. Air gets pressurized in there and you need to bleed it after putting in a full cooling charge. Change the radiator cap while you're at it.

Have fun!
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Last edited by SpiderWebb; 05-19-2008 at 09:16 AM.
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Old 05-19-2008, 09:21 AM
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lowmileage lowmileage is offline
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One other thing - paint the bottom of the gas tank silver to reflect heat if bottom now is painted black. And thanks to SpiderWebb for pointing out to use distilled water (I should have mentioned that).
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Old 05-19-2008, 09:28 AM
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I was wondering if his overheating issue was related to someone not 'burping' the cooling system? I've read somewhere on the bb about that. The water does not circulate well if it's not bled.

Lowmileage, I was hoping for one of your patented hilarious photos to go along with your message. I have no idea how you hunt those down. I've spit my diet coke all over the monitor once because of you. You'll get the cleaning bill when I get my computer running again!
It's a gift, and a curse, eh?!

Good luck with your car. It sounds like it's gonna be a good one.
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Old 05-20-2008, 01:17 PM
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sfalfa sfalfa is offline
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I'll just chime in and say - fear not the SPICA! I actually had the opposite anxiety happening when I sold one of my Alfettas and bought a carb'd Fulvia! I was really nervous about getting a carb'd car after driving nothing but SPICA equipped Alfettas for the past 16 or so years (even though my bikes have all been carb'd - I know it's irrational...). I've only had to replace one pump, and that was shortly after purchasing the current sedan - but every other one I've had, once dialed in, has been a flawless performer. They really shine when you hit altitude - as the pumps have an automatic compensator and don't lose power like carbs do.
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Old 05-20-2008, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpiderWebb View Post
I was wondering if his overheating issue was related to someone not 'burping' the cooling system? I've read somewhere on the bb about that. The water does not circulate well if it's not bled.
I think the head gasket if blown. I opened up the rad cap and when drops of coolant from the rad cap fell into the rad itself, I could see a brown'ish texture in the coolant (Saab blue coolant.)

I also noticed that when the tempurature goes up, the oil pressure gauge drops to the middle. When driving at night, everything is fine. When I start the car cold, oil pressure is 3/4 to the right, temp. gauge is in the middle but after driving 10 minutes into the freeways, it'll creep up to 212 (or just under it) while the oil pressure goes down. I can smell the exhaust running rich but no signs of white smoke or at least that I can see.
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Old 05-20-2008, 02:13 PM
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lowmileage lowmileage is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpiderWebb View Post
I was wondering if his overheating issue was related to someone not 'burping' the cooling system? I've read somewhere on the bb about that. The water does not circulate well if it's not bled.
When doing a coolent change, I've learned early on to run the car with the cap off until the thermostat opens. When initially refilling with the new distilled water and anti-freeze mix (in a 50/50 or so ratio), don't fill the radiator to the top. If you do when the engine starts and the water pump starts pumping, it will overflow. Instead, fill it a little low. As the engine starts running, there will be space in the radiator for you to add water. As it is running, do not fill to the top other wise as it bubbles, it will overflow. When the thermostat opens, you will know it cause the water will lower dramatically. That is ok cause it is going thru all the hoses and the heater core. What I do then is put the radiator cap on and shut the car off. When it cools, I'll almost fill the radiator to the top again - start the car and repeat the procedure. Eventially, you will end up with a filled up radiator, no bubbles and no air pockets.
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