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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2008, 01:40 PM
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karmat karmat is offline
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Replaced plugs (with NGK platinums), verified #3 wire (even swapped it out) and still got the same weird reading on #3. I can't tell if it's something weird with the multimeter or if it really isn't firing often enough on that cylinder. Could the coil cause this? Seems weird it would always be the one cylinder. Anyway, after an oil change and further mucking around it still won't pass emissions. I suspect the catalytic converter is toast. I've scheduled with Veloce Motors to take it in tomorrow. Hopefully Dan Sommers can figure out what it needs.

Karl
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Have: 1969 1750 GTV under restoration
1969 1750 Berlina
1968 Giulia Sprint GTV (very rough, no motor)
Had: 1982 GTV6 3.0 w/4.10 rear, Stebro (imported engine from UK in 2002) -- Rear-ended 8/2004.
1988 Milano Verde
Non-Alfas:1984 Volvo 244
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2008, 02:22 PM
AlfaTipo AlfaTipo is offline
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I would try to determine why #3 is showing odd readings before lumping out good cash on a new converter. What does the plug color (medium brown) look like? Are they all the same?

The coil should not make a difference on one cylinder but the rotor may be iffy gap wise on #3? Check inside the dist. cap and make sure the electrode looks the same as the others. Caps may look OK but can break down under high voltage so swap it out with another if you have one.

If you are in the Portland area I have a spare cap/rotor and lead set to try.
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'85 GTV6 Gina 2, Shankle cams and headers
'85 GTV6 Gina 3, busted transaxle selector
'94 Dakota RIP
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Old 02-13-2008, 08:38 PM
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karmat karmat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlfaTipo View Post
I would try to determine why #3 is showing odd readings before lumping out good cash on a new converter. What does the plug color (medium brown) look like? Are they all the same?
Good advice Jef. Yes, they were all the same. I expected to find build-up and carbon on #3 but it was exactly the same as the others which is why I started to wonder about the meter reading (but damn if the meter doesn't read the same every time on that cylinder...). They all looked good and like they were burning cleanly. I swapped them anyway since I had already bought a set.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlfaTipo View Post
The coil should not make a difference on one cylinder but the rotor may be iffy gap wise on #3?
Yeah that was my thinking, too. Couldn't see how it could affect just the one cylinder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlfaTipo View Post
Check inside the dist. cap and make sure the electrode looks the same as the others. Caps may look OK but can break down under high voltage so swap it out with another if you have one.
The cap and rotor appear to be brand new. The previous owner did a bunch of basic stuff to the car before I got it. It has many many brand new hoses, for example. I don't have another cap that fits on hand. Sadly I got rid of a lot of spares when I sold my last GTV6 in 2004.

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Originally Posted by AlfaTipo View Post
If you are in the Portland area I have a spare cap/rotor and lead set to try.
Thanks very much for the offer Jef. I may take you up on it. At the moment I'm taking the car to Dan since I'm just tired of futzing with it and taking an hour to fail emissions. Too much time off work.

The previous owner was under the impression that the cat was done for but didn't give any evidence as to why he thought that. I have all the receipts from the dealer (Alfa of Tacoma) but don't see anything about that. NO x and CO tests look good so that stage of the cat must be working...

Could the possible spark problem be the distributor itself? Hall sensor? Ignition unit? Never heard of one of these electronic distributors going bad, but you never know. I think I might have an ignition computer in my spares box somewhere now that I mention it. I'll dig around tomorrow morning.

Thanks for the advice. I may bug you about borrowing a cap to test if Dan doesn't get it going. I'm sure he will, though.

Cheers,
Karl
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Have: 1969 1750 GTV under restoration
1969 1750 Berlina
1968 Giulia Sprint GTV (very rough, no motor)
Had: 1982 GTV6 3.0 w/4.10 rear, Stebro (imported engine from UK in 2002) -- Rear-ended 8/2004.
1988 Milano Verde
Non-Alfas:1984 Volvo 244
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2008, 08:50 PM
AlfaTipo AlfaTipo is offline
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Karl, the CO reading was pretty low. It may be running too lean. That, somewhat paradoxically, will increase HC levels.

My main squeeze (mechanical these days!) won't pass either. I am fitting a Zeitronix wide-band O2 sensor. Mainly to get an accurate A:F ratio. As it wil also give me a new sensor it may go aways to getting through DEQ.

I am on my 2nd 21-day trip permit and it expires next Saturday so something has to work and work soon.

Jef
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Jef Fowler
'85 GTV6 Gina 2, Shankle cams and headers
'85 GTV6 Gina 3, busted transaxle selector
'94 Dakota RIP
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2008, 09:39 AM
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karmat karmat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlfaTipo View Post
I am fitting a Zeitronix wide-band O2 sensor. Mainly to get an accurate A:F ratio. As it wil also give me a new sensor it may go aways to getting through DEQ.
Hey Jef, I was looking at one of these:

JAW

Cheaper (even assembled) than the Zeitronix but not as full-featured. If I had a wide-band I could probably sort this out myself.

Good point about it possibly being too lean... the O2 sensor was reading 0.75v which is a rich mixture, but maybe that's off...

Karl
__________________
Have: 1969 1750 GTV under restoration
1969 1750 Berlina
1968 Giulia Sprint GTV (very rough, no motor)
Had: 1982 GTV6 3.0 w/4.10 rear, Stebro (imported engine from UK in 2002) -- Rear-ended 8/2004.
1988 Milano Verde
Non-Alfas:1984 Volvo 244
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2008, 12:40 PM
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91spiderNV 91spiderNV is offline
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Easiest way to pass smog is to crank the AFM screw all the way to too lean. Engine runs terrible but it passes smog, feels as if its not htting on all cylinders, then crank the screw back down to the rich level the engine wants to run at.

I'd try the easy fix first before the rocket science, but if all else fails after you replace all the stuff everyone tells you to replace, just try the AFM screw.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2008, 07:20 PM
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karmat karmat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91spiderNV View Post
Easiest way to pass smog is to crank the AFM screw all the way to too lean. Engine runs terrible but it passes smog, feels as if its not htting on all cylinders, then crank the screw back down to the rich level the engine wants to run at.

I'd try the easy fix first before the rocket science, but if all else fails after you replace all the stuff everyone tells you to replace, just try the AFM screw.
I do appreciate that advice. I may have to do that. But, I'd like the car to actually run properly and as I will drive this daily I do hope to have it as low-pollution as possible in a 25 year old 6 cylinder sports car. Ok maybe I'm making your case here for you. But, if it's failing emissions it's because something isn't running right unless it's the cat which is obviously outside the function of the motor. That all being said, this is a bit frustrating as I've had other cars in seemingly far lower mechanical condition fly right through emissions. Grr.

Karl
__________________
Have: 1969 1750 GTV under restoration
1969 1750 Berlina
1968 Giulia Sprint GTV (very rough, no motor)
Had: 1982 GTV6 3.0 w/4.10 rear, Stebro (imported engine from UK in 2002) -- Rear-ended 8/2004.
1988 Milano Verde
Non-Alfas:1984 Volvo 244
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2008, 07:23 PM
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karmat karmat is offline
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Jef I picked your kindly loaned wires, cap, and rotor this PM and tried it out. Same readings off the meter. WTF?! I did find that the hall sensor pickups were out of spec in two instances and bent them farther out to get them within the .5-.6mm tolerance specified in the manual. Didn't make any difference. I'm thinking red herring from the meter now. We'll see what Dan says. I'm taking it tonight.

Thanks a ton for your assistance. I discovered, BTW that my distributor is maybe 180 out from yours as I had to move all the wires on the cap. Weird, eh?

Karl
__________________
Have: 1969 1750 GTV under restoration
1969 1750 Berlina
1968 Giulia Sprint GTV (very rough, no motor)
Had: 1982 GTV6 3.0 w/4.10 rear, Stebro (imported engine from UK in 2002) -- Rear-ended 8/2004.
1988 Milano Verde
Non-Alfas:1984 Volvo 244
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2008, 08:35 PM
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karmat karmat is offline
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So Dan put a new cat on the car, re-timed and re-tuned it and installed a new O2 sensor I had left with the car. Apparently my tuning with no exhaust analyzer wasn't quite spot on. But, they tell me it should pass with flying colors. I'm headed down tomorrow to pick it up so we'll see what the testing center says saturday morning. Cross your fingers for me.

Why is it that it hurts so much more to spend so much money on something that seemingly doesn't make the car run any better... I know it _does_ now run better as I pointed out earlier. But still.

Jef, I'll drop your stuff by your place on saturday. I'll call you first to make sure it's cool.

Karl
__________________
Have: 1969 1750 GTV under restoration
1969 1750 Berlina
1968 Giulia Sprint GTV (very rough, no motor)
Had: 1982 GTV6 3.0 w/4.10 rear, Stebro (imported engine from UK in 2002) -- Rear-ended 8/2004.
1988 Milano Verde
Non-Alfas:1984 Volvo 244

Last edited by karmat; 02-21-2008 at 08:37 PM.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2008, 09:18 PM
AlfaTipo AlfaTipo is offline
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Hey Karl anytime. Not sure what my non-planed plans are for Saturday. I guess they are opening PIR up for slow tours of the new course. May head on over. Weekend schedule in PDF here.

My gal passed DEQ yesterday. By a whisker; 215 HC but hey, it passes right?

I probably only needed an O2 sensor but I now have the wide-band in and can monitor the A:F under a variety of conditions. So long as my knackered laptop battery lasts anyway.

Mind you she runs like crap today. I shall go get registered tomorrow.

Now my mind can drift to the other really important repairs.......
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'85 GTV6 Gina 2, Shankle cams and headers
'85 GTV6 Gina 3, busted transaxle selector
'94 Dakota RIP
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2008, 08:04 AM
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karmat karmat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlfaTipo View Post
My gal passed DEQ yesterday. By a whisker; 215 HC but hey, it passes right?
I'd have been more than happy with 215

Well we'll see, but I should be way under now. Better be.

Karl
__________________
Have: 1969 1750 GTV under restoration
1969 1750 Berlina
1968 Giulia Sprint GTV (very rough, no motor)
Had: 1982 GTV6 3.0 w/4.10 rear, Stebro (imported engine from UK in 2002) -- Rear-ended 8/2004.
1988 Milano Verde
Non-Alfas:1984 Volvo 244
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2008, 08:53 PM
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If your car is really close to passing. The best thing to do is run it until you have about 3 gallons. Make sure your running regular. It burns faster. Drive your car for at least 30min making sure that temperature is up. Add some denatured alcohol and it will pass. You can also turn on the a/c to a low position. Makes the engine run hotter. It will also pass. This is of course your within a 100hc.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2008, 03:52 PM
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karmat karmat is offline
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Chelo, wish I had heard those tips to try a week ago! Well next time. What does the denatured alcohol do? Lower the octane rating of the remaining gas?

In any case, with the new catalytic converter and a little tuning the car passed this morning with flying colors. 123 HC, 0.0000 CO, 7.1 CO2. Woot!

Karl
__________________
Have: 1969 1750 GTV under restoration
1969 1750 Berlina
1968 Giulia Sprint GTV (very rough, no motor)
Had: 1982 GTV6 3.0 w/4.10 rear, Stebro (imported engine from UK in 2002) -- Rear-ended 8/2004.
1988 Milano Verde
Non-Alfas:1984 Volvo 244
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2008, 08:52 PM
A.J.K. A.J.K. is offline
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retard timing,take air filter out, put heat gas line antifreeze in gas tank.dont forget to puttiming back afterwards.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2008, 10:25 PM
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chelo chelo is offline
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Denatured alcohol burns clean. Although too much will damage rubber hoses. I had not logged in to this sites in weeks.
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