Idiots Guide to Head Gaskets

[GreyGTV6]

Anyone know of a step-by-step guide or write-up to replacing the head gaskets on the 2.5 motor? How long is it likely to take, and how many (if any) special tools am I likely to need. I'm pretty handy with wenches and wrenches so not much scares me. I'm able to do the 4 cyl almost blindfolded but the v6 is a far more complicated beast. Which brand of gaskets are best? I realise I will have to replace timing belt and water pump. Anything else while I'm at it?

Any help appreciated.

[catsboy]

I, too, am more familiar with the 4's. You might try posting this in the 'Engine Rebuilding' forum...

[GreyGTV6]

Ahh, good suggestion. Thanks for the tip. I would have thought there would be a lot more replies as the motors have all been rebuilt by now.

Thanks I will post it there.

Steve.

[karmat]

You might try posting this on alfagtv6.com . A lot of serious motorheads hang out on the forum there.

I have done this on my old GTV6 but I don't remember it all well enough to not forget a step.

Hope that helps.

Karl

[GreyGTV6]

Hi Karl, I will try there as well. Is there lots of activity on the site these days? It's a good site, but seems to be a bit quiet judging by the lack of updates. I wouldn't mind you posting the bits you can remember. Did you "wing it" or did you have a manual or other assistance? Can you remember how long it took (like more than a weekend). If others post in with steps you forget we could build a full write up for future reference.

Steve.

[gt601]

I always have measured the time it takes to do a 4 cyl. carbed car in hours.( last time on the 'Fetta It took a clean two hours) The sixes As in GTV and Milano days... The 164s seem like they take weeks to replace. Make sure that you have all the things done that need to be done like guides and seals. That way you don't have to repeat the process sooner than you want to. You don't really need any special tools. One easy step is to not remove the exhaust manifolds until the heads are off that seems to make life easier. It does make the heads a little bit heavier but you don't have to stand on your head to get them back on. I think that the last set of Milano heads took around 6 to 7 hours to remove and install including valve adjustment. Oh... Make sure that you adjust the valves before the heads go on. It will save a lot of work.

Good luck!

Paul

Hi Richard

HOLY CRAP!! I finally realized the Catsboy!!!

Cathy... Cat.... DUH!!

[karmat]

Assuming a GTV6, haven't done this on a Milano, but should be about the same. 164 is a totally different animal due to having to remove the passenger side strut, wheel, etc. I think 6-10 hours is reasonable depending on how much help you have and how many other things you decide to do. Okay a quick stab at some steps to begin with: (disclaimer: been a LONG time since I did this)

1. Disconnect battery
2. Drain coolant
3. Make your life easy, remove the radiator (with fans attached). Inspect those radiator hoses. If they're not great, get new ones.
4. Disconnect thermo switch and water temp sesor (these are on the thermostat housing). Label the wires. Original plugs were colored, but they may be black if they were replaced. Check the condition of the connectors. If they're not good, get new ones from NAPA. They're not hard to replace.
5. Disconnect the accelerator cable
6. Disconnect the ground to the plenum. I think it's at the rear.
7. Remove the two halves of the timing belt covers. Can't remember for sure, but I think you need to remove alternator and A/C belts to do that.
8. If one of them is secured to the head remove it. Can't remember for sure. Think the alternator is.
9. Turn the motor over to top dead center. Pulling the plugs makes it easier to do that. Pull the cap on the distributor to make sure it's at TDC. Check the crank position mark. When you pull the valve covers, check the cam markers, too.
10. I think you have to remove the brake master cylinder and booster to get the driver's side head off. The safest thing to do is to drain all the fluid from the reservoir and remove the whole thing. Put plastic baggies over the brake line fittings and use rubber bangs to keep them in place. This prevents accidental dripping and keeps crap out of them.
11. Remove the exhaust manifolds from the heads. I think this is easier than trying to fit the things back onto the down pipes later. If you're good you can leave them attached to the down pipes. I hate the down pipe/manifold connectors on this car. You have to lie under the car with a super long extension to really work on them. Yuck.
12. Loosen all the rubber fittings that hold the plenum to the intake. Loosen fitting on the fat accordian hose that comes from the AFM. Remove the accordian hose from the engine bay.
13. Remove the plenum. (may have to disconnect metal plate that retains injector harness)
14. Remove all the injector connectors and pull the harness out of the way. Marking them is not a bad idea.
15. I'm thinking I removed all the intake runners at this point, too. Can't remember.
16. Pull the valve covers and check the timings marks to make sure it's all at TDC. Good idea to cover heads to keep crap out.
17. Remove the thermostat housing and hoses
18. Loosen the timing belt tensioner retaining bolt. This is tensioner dependent. Get it slack. Some people would replace the tensioner in situations like this where you have everything stripped down. Think about it. Decide what you want to do. How many miles are on your tensioner?
19. Remove the timing belt
20. Pull the water pump
21. Now you're ready to pull the heads. Follow the defined pattern for loosening the head. Can't remember what it is exactly, but it's a star shape, spinning out from the middle.
22. Make sure you have everything disconnected and yank the heads, one at a time. Cover the block with a garbage bag!

Advice: when you replace the water pump, replace the two little short hoses behind it, too. They leak like sieves once the pump is replaced.

Hopefully I haven't missed anything. I really hope not. Be careful. Hopefully someone else will review what I wrote and point out any missing stuff. When putting it back together, be careful to line up the distributor, cams, and crank at TDC!

Best of luck

Karl

[karmat]

Oh, if your manifolds are not screwed on with brass nuts, order some and put them back on with those. Get new exhaust seals.